camatv

where's the updates??

foot pegs are for pussy's/

if you like to revvvvvv the bike you will not like slp. they are very similar power wise to a t-6 but much more low end potential.. if you look at the graphs that are posted. you will see they fall off about 9k like a fat chick out of a lifted truck.. BLAM!!

and to think the slp has been out for a very long time.. hell i think they even put them on clearance for a while at 300 shipped...

cc isnt as important as squish. you could run 30cc and have .30 tho squish clearance and it will smoke all the time.. try a 20-19cc dome flat top profile in the bowl, 8-9mm squish band and at least 48 tho of clearance. id personally step it up to 52-58 and or even 60 on gas. if you can try a set of differnt squish. the higher squish will let it rev to the moon and run all day on lesser fuels. but i like motors that stay together. not just dyno stars

wiseco single crank most likely imported china... i think they even had a recall on some of them.. tz alone might have problems with side load. but your running a crank with 3 side load bearings and 1 non side load. i personally run 8's and one tz on smaller motors w stock gears, and 9 or 10 on stator side on larger motors.

wow i was really considering floppy donkey!! man we think alike! infact the next set i put together i will DDQ stle engrave that on them!

44/44 thats fukin big for a cub.. 41.3/44 id run them.

send it all to me i'll do them but you need to be specific on what "black" you whant. i know all about what your talking about with powdering things thats shouldnt be. filing splins on hubs SUCKS!!

its ok i'm easy!

hmm.. ok i have to just say one thing here.. the flange dia will make a HUGE imapct on overall pipe length size and construction./ flange dia was one of the biggest factors in the pipes i have designed ( no body knows i do that.. so SHHH). i have even designed them from stock cyl bone stock flange ID to the more common cub / stock ported flange ID. the changes were pretty significant in the pipe length/ dia. i was working on getting a local hyd engine dyno setup and when that was sold out from underme i kinda siad fuck it to the whole banshee pipe works i had started. i have 4 differnt designs and one with triple diffuser angle for broader hp range.. they are all plas'd out and need rolled and welded together.. but nobody heard anything. and NO green i'm not try to outdo whoever for whatever its just for my personal experience.

what i really dont understand is what happened to the thick rods the "wang" crank used to use and then they went to the OEM knock off's that are snapalicious. i'm not saying any body's product is horrible. just stating what a little research has found..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RACE-BILLET-CONNECTING-ROD-KIT-KAWASAKI-F5-F8-F9-CRANK-CRANKSHAFT-350-BIG-/141136387882?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20dc625f2a&vxp=mtr https://www.facebook.com/taiwanconnrod.jasonong/media_set?set=a.109289409123610.10854.100001276538795&type=3 https://www.facebook.com/235380236498608/photos/pb.235380236498608.-2207520000.1422934442./486946984675264/?type=3&theater ??

i dont smoke. if i get drunk the next week i cannot move because it flares up my gout can't ride its to damn cold and my joints al almost to fucked up to work anymore. i break shit and that cost money to fix. dont have any damn guns. hey this site is way cheaper than some asshole in an expensive office telling me i'm a freak and everything will be ok!

ever have just a bad day. tired of this shit already

uhh ok here is a go.. start bike. you have a carb synch tool right? if you can synch the carbs AT IDLE to a even point.. if it wont idle at all ever its got to big a pilot in it.. if it will not die from to low of an air screw setting ( throttle blase height adjustment NOT the cable adjust on the tops of the cabs, OR the MIXTURE screw in the front/ bottom/ side of the carb...) its got way to fucking lean a pilot in it. if this is the case STOP change the pilot acordingly. get the bike to IDLE OK FIRST> THEN use your synch tool to slowly raise the carbs slides up just off idle using the thumb throttle. get them at a steady setting on your gage at least ONE of them set this to the SAME on both sides. you may have to do this repetadly because it is hard to hold the throttle, shove the synch in there, AND adjust the TOP SCREW on the carb tops. then you need to recheck the pil.................................. oh fuck it typed this shit to many times already. go read the jetting page thats pinned pleasse.

oh great more hookers and blow.

really? i had bad ass results with "toomey needle" when the rest of the bike is RIGHT<<<<<<<.. i have ALWAYS had a hesitation with stock needles with a lot of air intake capacity. sometimes it was very faint but it was still there... what you have pipes and pods. the jetting specs you have sound right on. plugs look fine to me. if the air screw turns into a range that works with the 25 pilot it is fine. use the air screw to determine pilot as long as the needle is right. i JUST did almost the same setup on a bone stocker. only thing it had was v4's i put in 27.5 but also felt it was a tad rich. it was going to glamis for a week so i wasnt sure if it might lean a tad when it got there. 4th clip on toomey ( best) and a 300 main. he was going to be running a LOT at wfo so set it a tad rich. guy was pleased as punch with it the whole trip. its almost sure you will end up with 280-320 main on a stocker with stock carbs. determine pilot by what the motor wants.

if you have 2 hot rods cranks rods break like that ( so easy you claim ) PLEASE CALL HOT RODS i am POSITIVE they will want to see the rods and determine a failure. they have ( in my opinion) brought back to USA all their rod manufacturing due to quality control issues i'm sure. if your not sure which webb to use buy all of them and have them sent to a metallurgist or test them yourself. i dont have any money or desire to determine which crank is the strongest so i just use what holds up. ( hot rods 4 mill, stocker w hot rods rods on 350's and TDR"S forged 10 mill NOT the wsm forg) i have seen lots of failures from fuck ups and really only a few legitimate lower rod bearing fails but they were on 10+ year old cranks. OR in a motor that was run lean from an intake leak. ( hot rods crankshafts) MOST people on here have seen and heard the stories of multple multiple other brand cranks breaking rod ( you dont care you have BRAND X rod) AND a lot of metal type failures ( webbs coming apart at the big end thin side, stubs snapping twisting out of phase from shit recycled steel i'm sure. AND several of the BILLETS snap flywheel stubs off ( because of shit steel ) this is just what i have SEEN either from pics on the net or watched happen right in front of me on the sand. to help you out i dont know of to many that are pinned or keyed from the get go that i would recommend. of course i have not tried any of the so called NEW vito's. i do no know if they are keyed. if your going o redo crank complete you really need to build a phase jig for pressing the centers together and for verifying proper phase to 0 degree. if you have the capacity i would recommend stroking stock webbs to 4 mill. you can pick up toasty stockers for 20-40 bucks all the damn time.

i think so. BUt it seems i have to make the boost ports HUGE> on stockers i also left the stock intake almost stock size. boost ports were the size of the stock intake windows and pointed in a way to aim the charge up the transfer instead of down. i also had to move and raise the transfer bridge a LOT. IF i could get stocker style pistons with no intake windows i think it would work better.. so there it is..

that does look neato. and on the opp side the ressy is on for rear shok.. i'm not going to say anything else about it.

what color. and the guy who sid he would do them for 10 bucks that s cheap.

if the bike runs ok hasnt nede to be rejetted a LOT or dosent seem to hang at all off idle. its probably ok. when the clutch side seal goes bad you will smoke hardcore out the clutch side pipe and loose fluid. most times if thats the case something has broken in the case and damaged the seal. stator side can result in the bike just never seeming to run right and/or jetting never can seem to be right. center case seal can run fine at cold then as bike warms up it starts to act all nutty. pops or falls on its face or starts to smoke bad on either cyl and looses cranks case oil. best thing is to do leak down test. synch carbs, and fresh gas new plugs ohms test plug caps test spark strength.

what size mikuni's you run tabata?. i also prefer ease of tune and quick tune. BUT i have set up gas kehiens from scratch as well as mikuni's as long as the emulsion tube is pretty close in a mik they can be faster to get right then kehiens. but knowing what needle to really start with will go a long way. but even then yu kind aneed a selection of needles and then jets.. its really just my preference. i have run 41.3/44's and 44's on big motors and everything inbetween down to 30/32's on others. i have a set of 52's cyclones? i'm going to try this year maybe.. tabata's right there is a LOT to tune as far as a total package goes. i have never had to try and tune for a whole nother area. i always like seeing the progress the west coat guys make when they come here from cali.

get a hole saw and get after it..