camatv

id have to check with the rest of the "crew" that i am trying to head down with. they are mostly cruisers and a few dune buggies. one or 2 big jeeps. i'll look into dumont but whats the difference in the 2?

depends on dome. a short stroke alky motor almost always wants a shit ton of timing. most ss and 4 mills i peg the plate at 11 d and even one 4 mill i was able to add about +18 give or take ( 11 on plate + 7 ish on ignition) total on lower rpms and take out 10 on the top end. ( with adjustable ignition) with some domes have really high squish velocity OR are way wrong and cannot handle the extra timing. others make all the power with minimal squish velocity and will rely n high advance timing to get the heat thing done in there. lectrons you should be able to get them to idle, and rev clean right off idle or load and clear with one rev out. after you have that clean then you should start with the PJ. carb synch is very important for clean rev off bottom also. idle speed and just off idle cable pull needs to be exact. make sure you have adequate fuel supply to them, pingle, fuel tank clean, fuel cap either drilled or large holed billet, big bowls , correct style needle and seats and floats set right on. after you get them dead on you will maybe notice they need 1/2 turn or less either way depending on conditions. the pj you can watch your plugs after you get a load on it and make fine adjustments from that. biggest thing with the lectron is keeping the complete carb and dump tube clean. if you let it sit for a while its always a good idea to take them off from time to time and clean them really well. make sure the dump tube is clear and clean. no gunk or crap in there. NEVER drill out the dump on a lectron if i rember a 1/8 drill bit should pass through with ease i use them by hand to keep the tubes clean and carb cleaner on the pj./

its all in the jetting... and maybe carb size? maybe david could chime in on his setup? i just " aquired" a trinity setup i will most likely be selling unless for some reason i seem to like something abou tit.

big bowls, proper fuel supply setup. usually you dont need a pump anymore. unless your running up a mountain at WFO in 5th pinned..

back in the late 90's when mx racing i'd buy the plastic sheet from the local roundy round shop and cut them out. they like to "slide" over dirt a lot better and should hold up to abuse better i'd think.

look into a yfz 450 conversion using an old race 450. preferably with all the bad ass suspension on it.

looks kick ass to me. the trans setup is kewl.. what happens next year when they hopefully put the 4cyl in it?

one note on the radiator. rember the upper shock mounts are right there, i put in a cross bar in front of the rad across the two upper frame rails. a few big jumps that frame is going to squeeze and most likely crack or smush the radiator. the upper line where its hitting i modified that tank mount and the gas tank are to fit it all in there. i ended up making a differnt washer setup to fit it all and still have the tank held down. its a retarded tight fit after everything is in place. and i'm highly considering making an alluminum big tank that fits under the plastic and uses some differnt front mount options. this winter i will do that.. on the lower radiator hose. rember there is going t need to be room for the hose, hose clamp, and you to be able to slide it on and off. if you look at mine straight on it looks like the radiator is tilted to one side. i did this on purpose to scoot the lower rad hose over just a tad this keeps it low and makes plenty of room for the hose connections yo uwill need. the pipes can curve out a lot right past the downtube and then curve back in a lot if you place them just right you should be able to get one finger or so in between the front of the chamber and the upper a-arm. the steering stabilizer maybe under the tank? with the motor low where it should be you will have a lot of space above the head. i mounted my electrics right below the front of the tank, there is a section of frame there with a bunch of holes. i made special spacers that fit up in that grove and space the coil down so it clears, also same thing on the cdi. i tried to make it that i didnt have to modify the radiator for any reason. if it ever gets damaged or something happens it much easier to jut buy another one then have to fix or refab up a bunch of stuff on one. mock and test fit everything all together. motor in, pipes in, radiator in. thats what took so long on the one i did was working everything in together so it all fits right, is easy to work on, and minimal repair costs if anything happens. even after is is done ride it for a week and if there are any issues they will pop up.

you need a 1-5.

i sent you a PM.

id LOVE to do one. just waiting on a mx roller to blow sky hi that the owner dosent have a million bucks into.

thats sad.. maybe its time for a hillclimbershq?

if you bead blast put bolts in all the threaded holes. dont slam the gasket surfaces. and any bearings need pulled or taped/ geased closed like the clutch arm bearing. THEN clean the holy shit out of them in hot water. or if you have access try and find an ultrasonic that can do alluminum or hot tank washer like what some auto repair shops and most any engine rebuild shop or trans shop should have.

are you going to "sky it out" if not cut uppers with proper reinforcements in the rest of the frame would hold up fine..

run alba arms save a bunch.. buy used from here from other part outs and ta da. or as stated take the 3500 IF you have it all in cash and buy a built bike.. IF your budget is a pay as you play style then i'd say. list what all is on the bike now, like pipes carbs etc etc. is it the yellow SE and are the front fenders intact? then decided what to reuse and what to replace.. alba arms tusk axle works front shocks you should be able to do that in the 800 bucko range.. ported and bored cylinders 300-400 ( 750? would get you a driveline top end kit so keep that in mind also.) pistons 200 billet anodize basket 160 HD clutch 80 driveline reeds v4 or boyesen 100-200 modded stock trans 250 gaskets and OEM seals. 50ish cool head or driveline sleeper head 150-200 crankshaft issues? 50-450 depending on how bad it is. if its toast replace with stock stroke ( 350) or 4 mill (450) both with upgraded bearings that would get you a great starter motor. and depending on pipes or what it may have on it now maybe even better. if your not comfortable dissasembly and reasemble the motor id say add about 500 to it if its out of the frame. this is what i would charge. and anyone else i would think would be close to that in price. BUT i would deffinatley look over the frame for bends, breaks, major damage bearings and seals that may need replaced. bent stem bent bars etc etc.

where's muh monies at yo!

its pretty amazing. from a dead start they come up fast. BUT after 2nd gear the geo takes over and they will just wheelie about a foot up in the front. its bad ass on the dunes to roll over top of one run down the face and barely wheelie up the next full power on the middle part of the seat. frame acts like it has a 4-6 over on it after your moving. BUT its short so bringing the front up when you want is instant and turns really fast. i did really set the motor as low as possible in the frame to keep center of grav low low low. it shows in how it rides.

not sure what the big deal is. plenty of bikes have been on alky then set back up on gas. peeps get tired of alky and want easy.. or mileage if its a rider. bike obviously was a neato bike old school cool now. so probably had a few different setups on / in it.

hell of a start!! your going to love the bike when its done. i wonder if raptor 350 hood would go over on one of these OR the rappy 350 nose piece? just thought about this the other day. if i didnt have such bad ass fullbore's i would have trimmed the stocker hood or a one piece maier. the mock stage first will show any issues and any changes that you may need to do so thats a good idea. mine is just rattle can blacked right meow. i already had to redo the lower motor mounts because the engine stressed them to much whoops

it has o-ring seals cut into the cylinder if it is like production la sleeve. if it does have an override ( im guessing yes because you said no 6th) all that clutch shifting it maybe damaged already. dont lift or chop throttle on the upshifts. shift all the way to 5th when you slow down and most times 5th is not ramp cut and you can let off, slow all the way down preferrably with the clutch pulled in then at a very slow roll or just stopped shift all the way back down. if it will clutchless shift from 1st to 2nd then it is a 1-5 very rare back when this was built. its most likely a 2-5 w 1st if it has one. if trans ever makes any weird noises or pops out of gear or wont shift into 4th the trans is damaged and need to come apart..

simple forged. 100% stock replacement i'd say cast should be fine. one thing cast will usually NOT wear the bore as much as a forged piston. if the motor stays together and you do wear out a set of rings/ pistons sometimes the bore is still true enough to drop in a set of fresh cast. sometimes not every time. piston to wall clearance is much more important on cast also. to tight even a lil bit that sucker is going to cold sieze, too loose even a smidge that skirt is blowing out the pipes. i didnt read all the other posts on this q..

do a yfz conversion

sent message

ready to sell it?

any pipe metioned will be better than the t3. t5 would be better . but SLP will deff give a lot more bottom end. the guy may not even miss the 500rpm on top he is used to. depending on porting t6 might work well also. pro circuits are usually easy to find used for decent $$$ cpi might be a good choice. maybe do some looking for cheaper pipes and try out a few sets. with slp you can probably go up a tooth on the front also.