camatv

e8weed. lol

hmmmmm....

the difference i would say is the fact that they are plated at millennium, machined by an merican ( fuck yea) and the "kit" come with wiseco pistons...

him this has me thinking. how thick dia wise are the stock webb's? comapred to an aftermarket one.. i would rebuild an old TDR fordged or if you can find it an old hotrods 10 mill webb.

dome design is as important as porting and pipe matching.

i just put flexx on my yfz conversion. they are bad ass. between the mucho better geo of the yfzee chassis. quad rate front end anti vibe stem and these damn flexx bars i find i can ride way way way longer and not feel anywhere as drained they take som much of the jarring and suddent HIT out of everything. its just bad ass. they are worth every penny if your fat and old they are worth even more. im 280lbs and crusty old joints.. plus i really like the yfz seat, bars, motor placement geo over the LSR outlaw i had.. hard to say but its more of what i like seat, combo wise. on acceleration i can hold on to the tank better and push forward with my feet to take the speed much easier.

wow.

i have a blue one with a cut white nose i'd sell??

damn!! everyone copies everyone else! no matter what hand coned are a LOT of work and very time consuming to do.

yeap killer trail carb!

the performance is going to be directly related to the porting numbers, the head design, pipes rest of motor bla bla bla. whats nice is they will be able to be ported to different numbers relatively easily. and for the price be a great alternative to sleeving junk stockers. with the low numbers you will be able to set them anywhere you want. 130/ 190 128/ 198 132/ 196 will all be doable easily.

cnc tunnel porting sounds like a big time winner!! 421 cub is pretty much drag ready right out the box. get the domes right right pipes good tune alky carbs your sitting on 100 hp pretty easily. so you dont really need to know shit about porting its this fact that has made a bunch of not really porters seem like a good shop. getting a nice midrange overall setup has seemed to be the killer with most places.. not to many can lay out a nice flat curve in the 75-80+ hp range. even with servals its seeming hard to do unless you really know whats going on in there. even new porters should be able to have a lot of fun with these cylinders. and knowing your not going to be plauged with nico issues or weld leaks is even better

M270-2

my opinion on these is.. NICE to see a known builder / supplier doing the machine work and the best plater doing the plating. should have excellent quality control. as long as the aluminum they are cast out of is good quality and there is some sort of heat treatment done like cp stuff should be a good option for a somewhat lower cost build or lower cost replacement for rider bikes. of course dyno numbers are going to be all over the place!!! these cylinders will require real porting, looking at the pics yea they will run good as cast but a real builder with real porting experience with stockers is going to love these! plus knowing the cylinder and plating is good quality and not who know's what will motivate some to want to spend some time in there and work over a set. i know i want to. the NICHE and athena cyls just have me to worried to spend any time with. i'd LOVE to get a set and start working towards a real "rider/ dunner" type setup not a top end only blast master. only thing i'd like to see is the area where boost ports are put in filled in so if i wanted to put some biggins in there i wouldnt need to fill them in. the outsides of the transfers looks like there is plenty to work over the tunnels a lot. and on that note why not just cast them bigger inside instead of having to go in and work all that out anyways? big trans tunnels, triple exhaust and the intake port shape would mean much less time and $$$ for porting work. just a thought. i think the biggest questions is going to be as cast vs as cast cp .. these with "porting" will probably cost same as a cp set up??

they are all "custom built atv's".. wonder what the "law" is on something home built?

he is dead on. IF you want to run carbed e85 get a tester. keep notes purge the motor. run alky safe mix oils and treat the bike/ setup the same as if it as on alky. your BEST bet is a lectron due to its super fast jetting changeablility OR really good notes on % of ethanol to gas and the jetting you found to work right with those percents. lectron alky carb works well BUT you have to have the correct ethanol needle. pe-1 wont work on e85. ONLY few reasons to run e85 over methanol. is its easy to get for you and alky is near impossible. you want a smidge better mileage than alky will give you. you want your bike to smell like roasted corn.

ok so some of my local friends are thinking of taking a dune trip to glamis for pres day. is there anywhere i can get some info on the area? they went last year and said it was 40 miles to anything at all. i have looked some on the online info i could find. if anyone has tips/ that would be great we are hauling out a 40 ft trailer, camper, and maybe my flat bed truck. i'm going to try and bring at least one drag bike out and have a lil fun. i'm sure i will get stomped by the big boys but hey>?

remove old roller on bottom. install chariot tensioner with the "one" bolt. adjust tension to where you want it. go ride???

strip the frame all the way down and remove some tabs. clean up some welds while its apart. if it dosent have it already maybe reinforce the front steering tab. to get some frame idears go to cascade site and look at frame mods. there are a lot of great pictures and if you an or have anyone that can help a lot of the frame changes are relatively easy to do. from those pics that entire motor is in bad shape sucks that happened. but the bike looks to have a lot of nice aftermarket on it. so get the motor fixed and frame looking good you should have a fun bike!

crank works told me when i asked if they would do a 10 mill to a stocker that they dont do that type anymore and recomended the billet. the 800 buck TDR is a great crank

in hutch about 50 miles west of wichita. i pm'd ya my number.

cometic afm style should seal fine with no sealer.. you can use sealer ( yamabond, ultra grey ) on any gasket surface. just not on paper only type gaskets. i have lots of problems lately with intake gaskets leaking with stock boots. i just ultra grey them right up. no gasket at all works great.

the primary nut has a coned washer behind it. that IS the mechanical seal for the nut itself. soapy water should show bubbles there if you were even loosing that small of an amount.

wow thats some shit!!! IF entire bike was dropped off motor was built and installed in bike and was stated "ready to ride" it should have had oil in it. it shouldh have had gas in it it shouljd have been strapped to their damn dyno and ran for at least 15 minutes and broke in then checked for issues.. IF engine was dropped off and built then handed back to said customer in a box, crate bla bla bla it should have been handed over with new plugs, and 2 quarts of bottom end oil and instructed to install in frame, use this oil, fill with bla bla gas/ oil mix, run the bike after running for a few hours drain oil and refill with what you want to run. OR asked customer before time what kind of oil he would like to run and either make suggestions or supplied with 2 qts of that prefer'd oil at time of pickup.. this is just what i do PLUS i usually offer to tune/ jet/ check condition of install after customer installs motor in chassis to make sure they are happy with the bike. its costs more but in the end your going to be way happier with a setup that is stated as ready to rip then trying to pull your hair out tunning.. shit does happen parts failure wise but usually not if you use high quality parts. most fails after rebuilds, i have seen over the years was from going against what i suggested seal, gasket or hard part wise considering the usage of the motor.

if you need a hand let me know i'm local to you.