camatv

going to need a LOT more info than that.

i can get a set of hand coned raw?

i'm looking for an up to 14 over linkage setup chrome swingarm. OR lsr billet swinger. NO ladder bar style. prefer metal tech can trade stock modded trans OR i have a ton of other parts pipes, shear big bore small flange opp side HAND coned pipes. billet stuff. wiseco +4 crank.? new.

i have set of CPI non stamped small bore? not chrome but ceramic

set of shear big bore opp side hand coned. not perfect but work good.?

i need this but am broke. garage full of parts?

i have set of small bore CPI inframe non stamped not chrome ceramic coated. ?

the springed hinson will need the crank gear they are sold as a set.

make sure lowers clear the tube on the a-arms, loosen the mounting bolts on the shocks put the bike on the ground jump up and down on it let it sit where it wants to then tighten the bolts. OR the yfz shocks you bought used are fucking bent.. damnit!

i got 10 bucks on my answer!

the internet is so full of crap!

the turning gold part is maybe a lil lean on your jetting. speckles i dunno? almost look like water marks from being washed and not wiped down.

if iIS a lonestar stock aftermarket chassis holy shit.. i'd be more than willing to do an "updated motor" and take that old pile of shit off your hands for ya.

they are a LOT of fun and really need a LONG arm to ride. i built a motor for one a local guy had here long time ago. he made a alluminum gas tank for it and was running about a 4 over arm. i did a super simple 350cc stocker motor for it with a lot of neato custom internal stuff. it was also the motor that i started reworking transmissions on. with the 4 over it would just ride the rear everywhere he went. he liked it that way i thought it was a tad hard to control.. but not impossible..

upp will last about 3-5 years and then need replaced. but any billet style with rubber boot is about the same way. my personal fav is the trinity intake 2 piece, UPP, chariot. and there used to be a set with a center divider in it that worked well. a lot of them just have the wrong angle and/or the wrong placement of the boot to work worth a shit, OR they are the leakmaster internal boost bottle bla bla bla bull shit ones.

those are fmf, mossbarger, boyesen, vforce, tdr or pryamid reeds.

i have been looking at the diff piston/ rod combo's. my thought are. the larger pin should support the piston much better in the larger strokes. as far as the rotax to 250r piston differences i'm not to sure. i have a 10 mil crank with ck136? rods on it.

id buy it. BUT i like and would love to have old scool drag bikes from an era long gone.. and thats what this thing looks like. chrome chassis custom built to look as much like stock as possible. d bars its an oldie. most of them i'm sure got parted out and who knows what after everyone and their mom got a hold of them.. whats a full roller custom chassis worth? if it has some nice drag parts and clean plastics your getting the motor for free. back when i got into this drag thing i had an la sleeve i rember hearing of an old la sleeve top end that was choped in half and reworked. im wondering if thats what this is. i was told at that time it was the only one that ran worth a shit. be very interesting to see what his reciepts for everything say on them and the dates the work was done..

NICE heard he was the new BBD!

the head looks like superior sleeve or LA sleeve. but cylinder i dunno. 250r reeds and pv setup. is this a bike your looking to buy? or something you know where its at? whats the owner say they are?

site 501

i know bill said the port timings for the 4 mills and 7 mills will be available in differnt combo's for porting changes if needed. i know that the athena is really really high exhaust and for a rider bike makes it kinda bitchy to ride. plus the one i was around was a turd to tune down low and mid range. i'm sure it needed some port work might clean it up. but after seeing so many have issues with the plating peeling or flaking so quickly i decided not to mess with them. if a set came across me super cheap ( like free) i'd take them and add the iron sleeve available and go from there.

yea the rappy 660 or 700 one of them is skinnier er it took a LOT to get it in there. its a super tight fit. cut a bunch out of the frame up there and added a support i had to tilt it just a tad to clear the lower radiator hose and modify the front tank mount and hold down screws. the plastic is also up about an inch but its hard to tell unless you look at the tank. i was thinking of running the maier one piece nose or if i could find a fulbore that i could cut out where the rad is and just run a screw in nose piece. maybe try and fit the rappy rad cover on it somehow. then cut it all out in the front. i bet if yamaha would have developed the frame on the banshee motor it would have looked like a rappy and the yfz combined.

you might have to either make a box and remote mount it like the OE yfz. OR look through the k+n webb site and use dimensions to try and find a set. i ended up running r-1082 BUT they will have a smaller flange id for the lil mikuni's i'm running.

ok i'll dig it out of the rafters.