camatv

i did a triple port non welded stock bore on a 68mm big sleeve many many years ago. had to set up most of the porting then install the sleeve. it ran ok but i think with what i know now it would work much better.

only thing is rollers cannot take a side load. if you run 100% drum roller bearings ona 4 bearing crank it will float on the races. and in my mind if its setup with races opposing then it will tear up the bearings. i have seen more peopel with blown out 10 balls then the 8 or even some 7 OEM bearings... i dont know where to compare all the load characteristics of individual bearings by manufacturer.

if you search for a while you will finlly come across a map of the sites on the south end that are reservable. i dont know why that is so damn hard to find. its burried in the webbsite. at least last time i tried to reserve and didnt know the exact number of the site i wanted to use.. cabins are there but last i heard they smelled like puke and piss, and the floors were falling out of them.

did you see his pic<---------- john rides with the fame about 1/2 inch off the sand. wtf he need a seat for ??? just lean with it and rock it out!

the intake port i posted i am trying to achieve something by using a smaller duration case port. i'm in the middle of some trail low end port cyls i'll post them up in a few days.

alsa spray chrome is way differnt then ghetto can chrome.. there is a guy here in town doing the process i'm going to have him do the OEM plastic stator cover. full on chrome plastics in my OPINION are going full retard. and everyone knows you never go FULL retard

sleeper is right on. i dont blast the shit out of the mating surfaces. and if at all possible try not to blast them at all. never sand the surface you are removing material. matched case haves are pretyty much a must have ( yes i know your brothers former room mates uncles dog's previous owners son did it and had no problems bla bla bla) import grey / ultra grey i personally prefer to the 1124 34 11 12 what the hell evver it is.. best thing is clean clean clean and dry!

yes it is. 2 types of bearings one after cutting or bushing the drum and stays on the drum. other goes in the case and drum is cut down and preferable sleeve'd for bearing but not always. most do the one that stays on the drum.. i had to find the bearing number out on my own.

those LED lights should run off the stock stator with ease. o fix dimming at idle switch to a newer flywheel. the older one werent as strong and didnt produce as much power for the lights..

exactilly.. to me it takes someone really wanting to either honor those old real builds OR really want to try to figure some things out on their own.. only a very few handfull builders will even do fully welded stock cylinders. to me its more of a challenge to myself than anything. i mean really anyone can bolt on a set of clean up cubs and go race.. as far as well behind whats happening today i don't really think so. some of those early motors were really groundbreaking engines overall. and a lot of them with more modern pipes/ clutch setups and stronger transmissions would still run with the best of today. some probably were even more efficient in making hp than the really big motors that are so popular today.

red or black tank cover? and for 300 would have to be nearly perfect.

now make a set of 4 cyl cases with center drive off the crank and using a hayabusa or harley transmission!! sounds like a easy project !! keep it up! here is an idear for a project...? independent straight intakes using mikuni rubber flanges and a set of carb bowls tilted with large capacity and seperate high flow externally adjustable needle and seat from holley carbs. and the carbs are straight shot to reeds. larger mm carbs. look at 4 choke fcr carbs..

sometimes you just have to have fun where you can. ls might "suck" compared to other better dune area's but its what i grew up on.

this engine is running v-2's. its a true 350cc in a tank of a chassis with a fat ass rider.. the motor really seems to have a much more linear power delivery and much stronger midrange.... these pics were about halfway through..

iz fo real yo! i gots da hoos up my broffha

always neat to see the things they do there. the vintage bike work is really interesting to me.

led lrd same guy new place ( led) been around for a very long time. be nice to see a full on DM drag build to go with the pipes ( full on LED motor)????

i was still able to get the aux intake ( bbost port) bigger before i was done.. these were pics of "in progress".

donor bike. bye bye 4 poke! lil ride before heading home

more..

ok some updated pics. really wish i could just stay on it and get it done.. really really close. got the "donor" bike bought and about to get it stripped of + a-arms, quad rate elka's, swingarm, dominator axle, anti vibe stem, FLEXX bars propegs.

at least you will have somewhere to put your ballz

there is a KTM conv using a 380cc KTM 2 stroke motor its bad ass i REALLY wish ktm would nut up and release it as stock setup. what fools..

keep em coming... i actually have a 94 yz250 engine i'm considering doing after he yfzshee is done. i also just bought a nicely built yfz450 with a ton of suspension parts on it built motor with lots of reciepts for 3k. rode it one time to see what the suspension felt like took it straight home motor sold and out it came. all suspension stem bars etc is going on the ole banshee conversion.. i hope to update the post soon. didnt want to ride it too much i knew at any random moment it might explode. i can tell you PLEASE take your time on the pipes and plan on extensive modification to fit a radiator in between the front frame rails so you can tuck the pipes in right..

that purple plastic is AWESOME its so RAD i cannot believe you found it!!!!