camatv

me.. i'm 50minutes west of wichita. i will say i have fixed a LOT of banshee's in this area that have been "rushed". so to speak

are those upp intakes? i just read all the stuff on the dome dome is fucked. just stop and get the right dome now. if you havent already./

bogs with dirt tires? yikes

rear chain guide. make sure swingarm piviot bearings are tight, chain alignment makes a big difference also. watching the vids you need a stiffer rear shock OR a longer arm. after they get going its nutty how well the front stays down its like they have a +4 on them already. they hook nice because of the short swinger. motor is farther forward in the frame than a banshee frame also.

tylers frame he had last fall with the limited edition yellow plastic looked like it worked kick ass. you WANT full suspension yes yes you do!!!

as i have said in PM land. get the idle jet good first then do your plug chops if you feel the need. then after idle and main are good play with needle position. most bikes i have worked with had wayyyyyyyy to big idle ( slow) jets in them. this can also cause a ok plug chop when it is actually lean. i personally dont do chops but thats just me. in a pv motor if the idle and slow is to rich and causes a rich hesitation coming onto the pipe it will cause the pv to open slow. you can always see this on a dyno if everything is right. big nasty dip as your coming up the rpm's most pv's SHOULD have a big drilled out jet or just a 10/32 mini bung like what comes with the lil bitty power jets from clippard. after your jetting, pipe combo, carb setup, ignition, dome setup, porting is all dead on you can then play with the pv open/ close time to adjust what you want OR use a dyno and after all that look at the graph and try and adjust out dips with the pv's. if a pv motor is done right i can make excellent power from about 4500 rpm to over 11k. top end and overrev depends on pv open time and pipe rpm peak and overrev support..

find a friend with a blown up race yfz450 offer them 1000 bucks and put your motor in it. done

i will PM ya.

im really amazed noone has done a cnc drum yet.. if my cnc was working and i had a 4th axis i would have them ready already. just dont have the fundage or real desire to get it going.. tony is great to deal with!

wsm should just offer the webbs..

the more expensive 10 / 7 are a great choice. i dont know on the WSM or cheaper ones..

b8es, b9es, b8eg b9eg if digital ignition, br series. i personally like on stock or modded ignitions. br8eix gap at 18 tho for alky

i have chopped up any combo and re worked plugs about 900 times. late cdi's have the park brake override option but thats nothing your going to use.

i have 2 rk heads. they work fine. last i head they are not made anymore but can be special orderd but may take months to get them. the domes are usually specifically cut for your particular motor. and work well. when i switched from the builders set up i got the motor from to the specific rk dome style bike picked up a lot all over the power range. most of his domes have all the specs and motor setup etched in the sides or on the top of the dome. you had to do a squish test to get domes and/ or a top edge measurement. i ended up later pushing the head up around the washers and had to go to a high grade flange nut with sealant to hold it on the motor.

forcing the motor to work harder through gearing is one way to lessen the "hit. i'm going to get shit for this i'm sure but a mx port should make really broad power. its hard to do because of all the transfer work it really takes.. get them to be much more broad and you get that kinda 4 stroke feeling.. my old trail bike i ran 15/38.. but i was using a 250r rear axle. and running a 350 with really broad power ( and t6 pipes...) on a mx bike type power to get the motor to make strong midrange that seamlessly blends into the pipe action is hard to do. you wont even feel the pipe come on. motor just keeps pulling and can be lugged out of corners..

i read the post as the guy simply asking what epoxy was used. because his fell off. friend of mines started leaking after about 6 years. he just had it welded on. the epoxy LOOKS LIKE A+B moroso not for SURE if thats it or not. maybe someone knows for sure. IF i was going to epoxy one back on i would try that first then maybe devcon alluminum 2 part. but personally i would just weld the ring on and be done with it..

what did you do with the t6? nice vid!! i would try one tooth taller on the front OR one tooth taller front and one smaller rear. almost seems your shifting just at the face of some of the jumps. bike i'm sure could handle the gearing increase.. would pull farther into and out of corner's if its still stock port a real mx power type port job would help some with that as well.

that sucker flipped cart wheel style. wife did that a few years ago her axle looked the same. i have the "stub" on the wall-o-shame

yea. seen it many many times ( usually for sale) in oklahoma area was traded, swaped, sold, traded around there all over the place. i had only seen it go out one time it made half a pass and was towed back in. never seen it run ever again. so damn west coast east coast midwest its been around. !!!!

last trip down guys next to us had a tent and a ez up. every time they would go out to ride they would pack up everything put it in the tent or in the truck. and lower the ezup down over the tent. wow.. they also i think had an a/c stuffed in the tent too?

shit that bike was a stick with wheels BUT what it takes in design and workmanship to get to that point of setting a record with a little bitty motor thats still faster than engines and setups of at least 2 times the CC AND shooting NOS is impressive. cannot deny that at all. good job guys!

"slides sticking:? and "taking its good ole time revving down" was a big time air leak OR way toooo lean on jetting or some other fucked up who knows what opps mistake when you switched out the reeds.. if yo have just kept on pull starting it then riding it letting it lean hang for a while your most likely damaged the top end and maybe hurt it so bad you have lost enough compression to not let it start from kicking.. OR the slow jets are totally stopped up with who knows what and it has alos possibly screwed up the top end. maybe even damaged the crank from no oiling for lack of mixture.. whoops

im running 14/38 on mine with a stock cyl motor.. i do plan to go to 14/40 or 15/40 the lighter weight overall of the bike seems that the motors like a lil more gear.. BUT if your cub is ported pretty aggressive it may not make much power off the pipe.? put a temp Gage in the top hose and watch your temps. may not be so bad up there in the cold but not sure if it warms up much??

every single state spot is rented out for the weekend.

yikes! lectron carbs sa weet