camatv

i think the silencers are sweet.. the motor will dictate some of the "throaty" sound also. dune riding if you lug these around they will shine if you try to revvv like a top end pipe you wont like them.. just run it a higher gear than your used to and let it chug!! they will pull super nice up dunes and wheelie across them is a breeze.. on the 400 trex with PV they were KILLER

changing the silencer will change the way they perform.

my pile 485 had one side at 122 i think and the other at 128 and varied around the bore. i had put it together years ago as a dunner so i didnt really check it at the time. i was really surprised when i finally went back in there to check some things!

thats weid in those pics they do look bald. they have about 2 hours of ride time on them>? wont know on the phiappes till its together. working on the motor next few weeks. building a low rpm tqy turd for it.

any other cylinders ran as cast besides the 421 cub will need transfer and exhaust work to work well. at least from what i have worked with. and also reason why most any other cub combo dosent run all that great as just a clean up.. hell the early cheeta cylinders were really bad a far as transfer actually even being the same from one side to the other. and a LOT of casting flash. the newer stuff since cubs came out after a few years are way better right out of the box. the t-rex was even worse.... BUT they left room in there that you could pretty much set it p any way you wanted. as long as you knew how to really work on a cylinder.

weld them up.

progress! time to build motor.

pm

i dont raise the exhaust on a 421 its already at 198* and for most drag builds bikes thats plenty hi when they first came out i rember a few "drag" cylinders with WAY to big main exhaust port setups them fuckers would fall off the pipe like a fat chick out of a lifted truck.. wasnt pretty.

no they are no cracking. i leave lots of material where they are weak. the externals of the cylinders are also welded where a crack might start inside trough area is completely filled in with weld. to not have to weld the cylinders. and much less likely to have coolant leaks. ( this was about 18+ years ago at the time the fully welded triple port stockers were prone to coolant leaks internally after they heat cycled a few times. )

im going to convert to a soda blaster. read some bad stuff on glass bead. i think its one of the reasons i have had such a hard time with welding after glass bead blasting..

atc converted to atv rocket frame front shocks.

prob at least need a sealer in there. they blow stuff out. better slip fit than a lot of other pipes out there.

thats where the NOS goes DUH

those are clean up at best. exhaust port isnt wider than cast i'm pretty positive.. but ith out the cyliner in my hand hard to tell. different "shops" port cubs different ways. i have seen a lot with a really nice engraving on the side have a 5% wider exhaust and what looks like a bit bounced around in the ports and then called a "drag port" when i personally do a cub you can tell there is a lot of work done. i reshape the boost ports, work on the entrance and overall pattern of the transfer tunnel check all ports to see if they are where they need to be and then work on the exhaust and exhaust tunnel a LOT. but thats just me.. cubs are a LOT better as cast wise then the old cheeta castings. sometimes the transfer's openings can be mis matched by as much as 8*.

hope your using a rear remote ressy shock? the front a-arm ball joint sticking out that far is really scarry.. silencers look nice!

you have to rember these pipes have been out for a very very long time!!!! and NOBODY has heard or ran them but a very few peeps.. id say in the last 6 months they have probably gotten more calls and inquire's about them in the whole other time they have been around. hell the set i have i bought from a friend that didnt like them on the "strip" and said he got them factory direct because they gave him a hell of a deal and were just hoping to get the rest of them sold off the shelf... ha hey are super quite till you get on it!! nice mellow bark! how in the hell are 4 chokes with pretty much any aftermarket slip on consider'd quieter than a banshee?????

that vent goes UP and hooks into a T fitting. the upper T line goes up in a big loop. the bottom of the T goes DOWN to the back of the case. the case gets hot bleeds off air and some fluid. it gets trapped in the lines and either drains back into the case. or drains down to the cover again after it cools off. if the front line is plugged like that most motors are ok. the internal pressure CAN blow out the drive side big seal where the sproket is ( that never happens right??) and i have seen many coem in with that rear line going down plugged with dirt sand oil bla bla bla. if its constantly venting oilly residue from the case it attracts all that shit.. i personally like to just leave them both hooked up, clear, and let the upper tank area or that long line of hose do the venting. it just works better.. of course this is just my opinion after years of watching fluid piss out all over the sand after a lot of hot lappin clutch burning action. and thinking hmm that sucks... then going back to stock configuration and not having it happen again...

i can see all kinds of differences in overrides... the absolute BEST i have seen was a RC roy clarke trans he is long gone also. most anyone that can do overrides do them very similarly. i can get pretty picky with them but it seems even the nasty ass butt jacked up drum, flappy dog angle cut on some bench grinder seem to shift ok. its what happens when they get backloaded i see differences in what happens. also HOW they feel when you shift them seems to be somewhat differnt between some. its hard to describe. all WCR transmisisons i have ever dealt with i went in and "touched up" or modified the star for better feel. oh well

when the lower section of the yfz is done right instead of attempting to reuse the OEM frame mounts and the motor is up in the gas tank there is a ton of room... pipes are going to take a lot of work to get in there. unless your running some sort of single a-arm setup?

need any other parts?

actually.. set the cylinders up for the thick sleeve. with the sleeves out cut the triple in the sleeve and some in the cylinder. reinstalled sleeve and then finished it all up. worked good on low bore. i almost did another set with alluminum sleeve and nicko plating.

do a squish clearance check also. drop mains untill you think its strong again.

t6 will not rev past 9k. if ported will rev to about 95 bu fall off hard

its a conversion duh!