SDD

Price and Title?

Try doing a search... it's been covered more times than anyone cares to read about.

Jason I would cancel that order for those templates. The season is on going and why not just keep riding. If you want to have a fast bike send your cylinders off to someone that knows how to make them fast. Granted it will take some time to get them back... waiting for the best quality is worth it. If you really want to port your own cylinders let me know. I can give you some more info about it if you want.

When you increase bore size you will gain compression. If you don't need to bore your motor currently then why not run the 795 series Banshee pistons made for the long rod crank. You will not have to waste valueable overbores this way.

That is normal... when the side cover is on the plastic collar that holds the spring in place stops the gear from going out past the starter gear. Make sure the starter assembly is installed correctly and the stuck kick starter problem should go away.

Your clutch basket could be notched as well as the inner hub. DO NOT sit on the bike holding in the clutch and rev the motor. You will weld the ball to the clutch throw out push rod. I also don't like Motul gear oil... it's too light for my tastes and does not have the shock protection properties of heavy weight gear oils like Belray 85W gear saver.

You want me to set it up for you? Send me an email

Check out KD cycle in Yuma, AZ. They sell the pancake bearing assembly which is adjustable with an open end wrench and an allen key. I believe their website is www.kdcycle.com about the same prices as other shops.

Check your voltage output out of the voltage regulator. If it's more than 15 volts it's bad and need to be replaced.

Jim can you explain to me how you check your "blow down PSI"?

You will need to pull the head off the machine to measure things. The motor is easier to work with if it's on a bench but removing the pipes and gas tank and any other items in the way can work for you. You need to measure the inside of the cylinders. All port roofs should be chamfered a little but you can still get a "close" enough number to get an idea about whats going on.

No pump in there... just two little winglets that direct airflow over the main jet. They are also "quad vented" meaning 4 vents instead of the typical two. It's supposed to help from bogging after landing jumps and the vent lines plug up with fuel.

What bulbs are they? MR16 or MR11? You might want to look for some Osram "true aim" bulbs. They are more expensive but they are way better than your average bulbs. PM Justintoxiced about these bulbs. He can tell you how much of a difference they make.

The only way to tell what kind of porting you have is to see a port map or know the port durations. Measure the distance from the top of the cylinder to the exhaust port top. Give me this number in MM. Do this for the transfers and the boost port as well. With this info you can tell what the builder was shooting for. You can't tell just by looking into the intake port which has nothing to do with the port timing.

I have discussed this with a few builders. A few of them say it's not needed on a race machine. The key word is race machine since they typically get torn down and checked after each race or race weekend. They use custom made cranks with much better quality parts and are trued to closer specs than what the factory slaps together. The race pilot also knows how to ride better than most of us and they don't make mistakes like pinning the throttle while landing a jump. Even if they did that crank wouldn't be used for the length of time that us recreational riders do. The best things you can do for your crank is feed it good premix and fresh clean gas. Keep the air filter clean and make sure your jetting is a little richer than spot on. Use a fuel filter to keep other crap out of the fuel. If your really picky you can replace the outer crank bearings and when ever you do a topend never reuse wrist pin bearings. The more engine work you do the more often you have to replace parts.

Is everything straight on it? No cracks, repairs, welds, and stripped bolt holes?

Here is your 4th vote for the DID X-ring ATV chain. Justin has one on his bike as well. You can't beat this chain. The initial stretch from pushing the grease out from between the pins is about all you'll get as far a stretch is concerned. Any other slack comes from worn sprockets.

I absolutely hate that shop. The half wits that work there don't know crap. I know people have some crap to say about Alba but every case has been someone ordering something from out of state and they want it the next day. If you walk into Alba I have always been treated well and when I needed some cylinders bored/honed and I needed them the next day, they got the job done on time. I have split my share of Banshee cases and if you have any questions send me an email. Make sure Motoblunder of EC doesn't charge you more than 8 hours of labor. It doesn't take more than that much time to take the motor out and fix the problem and put it back in.

The reason those won't work is the sides of the cages are pretty close to the sides of the intake port. If your make shift reed touches the walls of the intake port they will start falling apart rapidly. Good luck dude

I'll handle the street bike vs shee portion. Yes a street bike will walk all over a piped banshee like it was your grandma pushing your ass in a stroller. Just about any recent crotch rocket will do 0-60 in less than 4 seconds. You might get a jump and be ahead for the frist 50-60 feet but after that while your busy shifting the bike will run by you. Most crotch rockets will do 50-60 in first gear and second will end close to 90. If your talking about a full drag banshee aka big bore stroker aftermarket barrel then it will be a close race. It's very hard to launch a street bike hard but it's also hard to keep on the gas with a banshee on pavement when the front end reaches skyward. Maybe some guys on here have some numbers for 1/8 mile pavement. You can look up 1/4 mile street bike times on most brands websites.

Derek it sounds like you either have a loose connection (bad wiring) or your fuel starving. If you run a fuel filter and it has an air bubble in it or you have a really small filter I can see this happening. One side will run dry and you lose power but the motor can still be kept running on the one side. Around this time you roll into the bottom of a bowl or something and the fuel catches back up to the demand and it's back to normal or so you think. I would pull the exhaust and reeds and take a peek into the cylinders and make sure you have not seized/scored the pistons, rings, or cylinders. I have a motor on my desk waiting for a rebuild from a lean seize because of a fuel filter that could not keep up with the demand of the motor at wide open. This motor stuck a ring and scuffed a piston but kept running the second day. Good luck.

3D your bike will not idle until you unplug the TORS connector that comes out of the throttle itself. Follow the wires down and you will find a connector. Unplug it and you should not have to hold the throttle to idle any longer. Your jetting is lean unless you are at say 6000 ft elevation and warmer tempatures with the airbox lid on. If you removed the lid you should be around 300 for mains. Is there any kind of mods besides the pipes?

Sounds like someone ran it without tranny oil and welded a couple gears onto the shafts. Pull the oil drain plug and see what color the tranny oil is and how much actually comes out (check the dipstick and see if it shows any oil on there first).

They way how I tune in the air screws is warm up the bike and let it idle. Now hit the trottle pretty fast (don't pin it but at least half throttle) and listen for any bog or delay before it revs up. If it bogs try to turn them half a turn out and see if it will rev up cleanly. If you can't get it to rev up cleanly no matter what air screw setting you try you should rejet your pilot jets and try again. The air screws will not effect the midrange like you describe. Your problem sounds more like a needle setting adjustment than anything.

Put your motor in with it assembled. There is always some dirt, sand, and dust that manages to fall out of somewhere and get into places where you don't want it. I put my motors in from the clutch side so I don't have to take the fuel tank off. You do have to unhook the rear brake lever though. Put some tape over the spark plug holes before trying to put the motor into place. Once you get it bolted in pull the tape and install your plugs.