SDD

I run full synthetic oils for this exact reason. I usually run MC-1 or HR-1 oils anywhere from 32-50:1 depending on what kind of mood I'm in. You will have to rejet to match the new oil ratio though so be prepared.

You can do plug chops in glamis... just go down the sand highway. Your plug is clean on one side because of the flow pattern of the ports. Take a picture of the ground strap. Why did you switch to a colder plug?

Try holding the gas in and kicking it over while checking for spark. You don't have to hold it wide open but at least 1/4 throttle.

It will make him happy when you have to order a stator from him.

Hey Justin we should look into designing a circuit that will strobe the LED's. Should be very easy to do. I'll take a look into my project book and see if I have anything that could pulse the power to the LED.

As long as that gas hasn't been sitting around in an open container it's fine. I run it straight in my 7mm stroker motor.

If your CDI was bad it wouldn't run. If the coil or a spark plug cap is coming loose if you swap the plug wires from one plug to the other and the other side has the problem check the caps and wires to the coil. I never advance my timing right off the bat. Break in the motor first then start dialing everything in to get the most out of what you have. Who milled the head? Did they recut the squish band? Start by checking the air screws and make sure the slides are coming up at the same time. If this doesn't help try swapping carbs from one side to the other. If the right side starts having the problem make sure the pilot jet isn't plugged up. If it doesn't help pull the reed cage on the left side and make sure the reeds seal properly and check the intake for cracks.

Don't run aluminum rear sprockets. Any Stainless steel rear sprocket will last longer than a standard steel sprocket reguardless of brand.

With a bigger bore like what you had you can't run 17cc domes. Your compression was probably too much for 110 octane even with stock timing. If your timing was advanced it sure didn't help anything. What do you have now as far as cylinders and head? Is your timing advanced at all?

If you file the high spots down you will have some free play and the disks will start to hammer against the basket. I say get a new Hinson/Barnett basket and use those old ones as ash trays. Oh and check your inner hub for the same wear.

What is your compression ratio and what kind of gas are you using?

I would not run Neon as the tubes are very fragile and requires high voltage to run. You would need a battery system to run neon. Justin's LED setup is very bright and you will stand out from the crowd with ease.

High compression can be had with an increase of bore size. You can compensate for the increase in compression by raising the exhaust port timing a tad higher so the compression ratio will still be in check. Harmonics play a role in pipe design but more importantly everything must be timed right to get the most out of an engine. If your pipe is sending the reversion wave back too soon it will short circuit the incoming fresh intake charge with spent gases. Your entire engine from the carb to the end of the silencer need to be tuned together. If you have a motor built to run at low rpms with lots of torque putting a set of drag pipes on it will not let the motor do what it was designed to do. Derek how did your machine do over T-day at glamis?

Everything I have read and even talked to Rich (Ricky Stator) what happens is the lighting coils get hot and start to degrade. Eventually it will burn up and fail. It's well worth the money if you can buy a high power stator and run 55 watt bulbs. You will have a little extra to maybe add a single 35 watt bulb on your handle bars so you can see where you are going when turning.

Justin was looking to sell these things as a kit... Now how many PM's do you have Justin? lol

You can melt the stators lighting coil wires. Have your stator rewound or buy a new high wattage stator from ricky stator.

Check around the bottom of the cylinder for oil. You might have sucked a base gasket. When blasters get hot this is more of a problem. Do a compression test and see if the piston "vented" itself or a ring is stuck.

Another

Justintoxicated's shee with blue led underlights and red tail lights

Same brands that are listed above. One thing I try to stick with is odd number of teeth on sprockets. With even numbers of teeth the same parts of the chain link plates start to wear a pattern into the sprockets thus wearing them out faster. With the odd number of teeth the link plates land alternately on the teeth spreading wear out over the whole sprocket. You'll really notice this on machines that the chain doesn't totally line up and you have wear on the sides of the sprockets. Just my choice but it makes a difference with 15/41 on my stroker.

They should be very close... maybe 1-2 jet size difference.

I would be an "other" voter Patriot is great More-torque is great Dyno-Edge is great A&S are great and there are a few others that I'm forgetting. Each have their strong points. Knowing exactly what you want your motor to do and how much free time you have to wait plays a big role in who to base your decision on. I will never give up a reliable motor for all out speed.

Did he happen to add a TORS removal kit on this machine during the rebuild? Has he tried holding the throttle open while kicking it? Go over the wires again and pay close attention to the connectors. Sometimes one connecter (key switch is always a pain) seems like it's connected but is really just halfway pressed in and it will have intermittent spark/ignition issues. Just for shits, if he has the parking brake still on it try unplugging any connectors coming out of the clutch lever (there should be two small wires going to a switch under the radiator plastic.

Hey man if you want to be done with it go pick it up and drop it off at my place on a Saturday morning. Come back on Sunday and it will be ready to go. You would have been ready to go at the start of this season if you didn't take it to those dumb schmucks.

There are two ways cases are matched. If you look on the back of the cases on the right side you will see a hand engraved number. These numbers should match. This is a matched set of cases from the factory. Second way is port matching the bottom of the cylinders transfer port tunnels to the top of the case where the case feeds the transfers.