SDD

Did you get any regular dyno charts of HP and TQ vs rpm?

The flat spot on is really noticeable when really stressing the motor aka long hill climbs in sand with paddles. On flat ground with regular tires you will not notice the flat spot. I believe adding reed spacers might help solve the problem but until I have two guys I know add reed spacers and run them in the dunes I won't know for sure. If you don't believe there is a flat spot you should hear from a member of this board with a 12 port 4mm stroker only getting 49 HP out of his motor. He will be the first one to try reed spacers to try to fix what I believe is the issue. I hope he finds this post and posts his findings. I'm not here to speak for him so if you have any questions on how his bike runs he's the one you need to ask. If you have a question about what I think is the problem I'll try to get someone to come in and post his findings and why reed spacers help the problem.

There are two wires that go into a small switch right infront of the throttle cable adjustment. If you haven't totally disabled the TORS system that switch is still active. If you let go of the throttle it will activate this switch and it will kill the motor. If you haven't done so just unplug it even if you already unplugged the other connectors. As far as the back firing remove the pilot jets and clean them out with a single strand of wire or something simular.

How about an update Logan

Unplug the connector coming out of the throttle housing?

Logan whats the status of everything? Did he get the shocks mounted yet?

You guys need to read his post a little more carefully... He said it's for a ProX monoblock cylinder.

You do know that HP is just a figure of torque at a certain rpm. Torque is what really matters to me though. It's what actually causes your quad to move from a dead stop up to speed. I know you already know this but for the newbies out there maybe we can start changing your idea of what makes a quad powerful.

Your best bet is to go try out a few differnt models at a local gun range. 45's are slow but easy to handle round. 40's are really snappy and lots of muzzle flip. 357sig is sim to 40. 9mm is easy to handle but may not stop as well as any of the other rounds listed. 45's have a draw back in the size and amount of ammo you can carry. Glock makes the models 23,33, and 19 which are easier to carry than the full size model but just as good. I suggest sticking with these three brands H&K, Glock, and Sig... alphabetical order not order of preferance. Each one of these brands is reliable and will be up to the task of daily carry. You might want to call a lawyer and find out about the liabilities of this whole situation.

Put the proper adjustment tool in the adjustment holes and push the end of the handle against the sprocket hub. Push the bike forward or backwards to get the proper tension. You shouldn't have that much of a problem.

If you raise the exhaust port you will lose "kicking" compression but when the motor is actually running if everything is setup correctly you will actually have a gain in compression. Boring out a cylinder a few overbores also will raise compression if you don't recut the head to compensate.

Before you do anything do a leak down test... it could have just been from using way more oil during reassembly on the right side than the left.

Justin thats the 12 mile round trip I almost ran out of gas on. I didn't even go up the hill more than once.

Logan let me know if he got them today...

I have that on my bike... you will have to do a tad bit of modifing. If you have a stock stator cover you have to cut some plastic that sticks out on top of the sprocket. If you plan on running a 15 or larger tooth sprocket you have to oval out the mounting screw holes and do a little trimming on the inside of the case saver so the chain won't rub against it. You might also have to remove some material where the clutch throw out arm is. Other than all that work I hope it does it's job... not that I ever plan on testing it.

Any time you increase flow you will loose fuel mileage. With my ported motor I could only ride a total of 12 (duning) miles before I was on fumes. On my stroker it's even less but on the stroker I have much larger carbs.

Alright Logan the arms were shipped today and he should get them Wednesday or no later than Thursday. Now if someone can pony up some old spare stock shocks from the east coast this guy should know that us American's care about our own. Specially one thats out there risking his life so we don't have to. Come on guys where is your Christmas gift giving spirit? Those old shocks are collecting dust in your garage anyway.

It's probably dripping out of the overflow vent onto something hot. Most banshees have stained pipes from the coolant dripping out and burning off once it drips on the pipe near the cylinder. Just keep an eye on your coolant levels.

If you swapped the plug wires from one side to the other you eliminated any ignition/spark issues. I would pull the carb and make sure the pilot and main jets are completely clean. Try a leak down test to check for air leaks. It's probably something fuel related.

Thanks for the shipping offer RNBrad but I can't accept paypal at this time. Instead of helping me with shipping maybe you can do this. Logan's Military friend is still in need of a front shock. If anyone can help pony up a front shock or a set of front shocks he'll be all set for some riding time. The A-arms can be considered sent so anyone that can help with the shocks would be great. Brad if you can help get them shipped a bit quicker so they will get there the same time as the a arms I'm sure this guy will be stoked. Come on guys lets get this guy hooked up.

Sounds like Justin is finally going to bite the bullet so he can keep up with me... give me a call Justin and I'll let you know what I can do as far as prices and models. All rear shocks come fully adjustable from what I have seen. I say if your going to be down here to work on your bike just have Precision Concepts rebuild your stock rear shock. If you let Bob know how you ride and what your having done he can dial it in for you. Best parts is he will revalve it for free for 6 months if your not happy with how it rides. The price was not that bad either ($350) which included the spring. I know where you can get a chorome +3 swingarm if you want to spend the $$$. Like I said just give me a call and I'll give you the details.

Since he is out there risking his ass for ALL OF US... give me an address and I'll give him my spare upper A-arms. I'll have them shipped USPS so he'll get them with in 3 or so days (shipped on Monday). I hope this is enough time for you guys to get some ride time in. My only request is I recieve pictures of him riding his shee with my upper A-arms on his bike. That is enough of a thank you for me. I'll post them on the site or you can do it if you get digital pics. PM me his address

I like the stainless steel one Duncan racing makes. I just don't like the price.

You also have to remember those numbers are directly from the crankshaft. There is no way of dynoing a snowmobile that I know of. It would still be fun for going fast in a straight line.

Sounds like old school Dead Kennedy's or Sucidal Tendencies