SDD

If you guys don't want to wait 2 or 3 months for cylinders let me know. Right now there is a problem with company doing the Nikasil coating. They are taking so long to do them most of the cylinders going out are not plated. This means more costs for you since you will have to cover the high cost of having them coated. The manufacturer has a quantity discount so when a builder sends them a single cylinder of course the costs are higher. How much higher... right now most of the shops are retailing the Cubs for 1000. Right now I can get 68mm cubs already Nikasil coated for 875 for stock, 4mm, and 7mm strokers. These are in stock ready for shipping. These require big bore domes (Prodesign work fine) or reworking your stock head.

Do us a favor... take your bike to a dyno and do a before and after. Take lots of pictures of your port work after your done. We all want to see your abilities.

www.rickystator.com

I would offer advice about porting transfer ports but since your being a newbie jerk I think I'll keep my experiences to myself... good luck finding the info your seeking

Over the last three days Glamis got more than 1 inch of rain. Add extra pressure to your tires and double check your jetting... your going to be putting a bit more load on your motors with the wet sand conditions.

Jim do you care to share your exhaust duration numbers? I know what the cubs spec out to. I forget what all the port timing numbers are but they are very simular to the regular Cheetah cylinders if you have ever had a chance to work on them. I do know that from CPI the cylinders are pretty much equal to a dune port timing wise.

That can happen if you miss a gear and just slam it into gear while the revs are still way up there. If you do miss a gear pull in the clutch and wait until the rpms drop down and then click it into gear.

www.rickystator.com

Don't forget there are other places to get these cylinders. If you don't want to wait to get a ported set. Ohton racing should have unported dyno numbers any day now. I hope to get a few sets for the HQ guys but I will need guys with the money and the need to go fast. Once I finalize my deal with CPI I'll post the details. Right now I only have one guy interested with the money.... I need at least 4 more.

If you want to know some info about me stop by the HQ Chat in the evenings... I'm usually on there. If anyone has any other questions let me know.

How many of you guys would buy these cylinders stock unported right now ($875)? If I can get enough guys with cash in hand I may sell them. I want a min or 6-8 orders that have the money right now. I may accept 5 orders and just place my order. I don't believe it matters what bore size or stroke you want. Anyone interested PM me on the board.

Half of that cost is shop labor... there is probably only four things it could be... stator, coil, tors, or cdi.

www.moretorque.com will also carry them. I'll find out who else has them tonight. I believe all the bore or stroke sizes will cost the same amount $875. The big bore will require a different head and some of the things are still being figured out.

Round tubes are stronger than square but the problem is shops will use round tubing with a thinner wall thickness. It's also much easier to reinforce a square tube than a round tube.

Ricky stator designed his stator to be modified to run a battery. To Float the ground all you have to do is cut the one wire that is screwed into the back of the adjustable timing plate. Make sure you cap the wire off. Thats it... the hard part is figuring all the wire connections to the regulator rectifier and battery.

4mm

I prefer Nate from www.moretorque.com or Dan from Patriot

They are the same. You should check the ring end gap and put the tighter ring if there is one on the top of the piston. I believe you put the side with the letters facing up as well.

Matt why would you get a round or oval tubing swingarm if you are going long travel on the front? If you go long travel your probably better off sticking with the stronger square tube design. You will probably jump that banshee and I know you wouldn't want the swingarm to crack. There is a guy on another board that modifies swingarms for a no link setup. He makes a new mount on the swingarm so you don't have to deal with making a new upper mount. He has a Blaster with 14+ inches of travel. I'll have to get more details about the valving/spring issues.

Take a picture of the top of the swingarm. My plus 2 Lonestar swingarm does not have a brake line attachement on the side of the arm. It looks like some other brand that people try to pass off as a Lonestar.

Impact driver

I would adjust the timing plate back to 0 advance and play with the Dyna timing curves first. Later if you feel that you need to advance the timing over what they have preprogrammed on the Dyna cdi you can advance it with your plate or take the Dyna to a dyno shop/engine builder to have a custom curve burned.

Do a compression test before you just decide it's the topend. It really sounds more like the tors system to me.

The timing is not fixed on a stock banshee. The CDI advances and retards the spark depending on rpm.

Oh make sure you have your meter set to AC not DC. The stators output is in AC current.