SDD

Jim, the Shearer pipes you list on your site, are those chromed or just nickel plated? At that price do they include silencers? Nice to see Ben's bike on there and hopefully Justin will get his bike up there once he gets his plastics back on it and get the new carbs dialed in.

If you question any part as far as wear is concerned just replace it. Don't risk putting something inside your motor or suspension parts that could possibly hurt you physically if it breaks.

One guy I know suffered a major problem when using that new oil. The wrist pin started to melt from lack of lubracation and the bearing ceased up. He was running Dominator at 80:1 at the time of failure. We have not determined what caused the major problem but it was not getting the oil it needed to keep the piston/bearing alive.

I know what you mean... I don't like knowing I spend a sh!t load of money and don't have nothing to show for it. Matt must be one of the newer guys in the back and probably doesn't work the parts counter. If you want to talk to someone ask for Mike Stralo. He is a good guy and should set you up.

With stock timing 160 psi anything over 3 degrees of advance don't go over 150.

Whats your compression and what gas are you running?

If you guys have problems with shipping skip calling the parts department and ask for Cory Hove the owner. First off I know you will not get the pro series shocks for nothing as they are almost twice as expensive and they would lose a ton of money on that deal. As far as the A-arms being out of stock they might have problems with the supplier. I hate hearing about all this crap you guys have to deal with when it comes to ordering from them. I live a few miles from them and most of the people there know me because I'm there at least once every 2 weeks. They need a better shipping department and maybe some more training when it comes to taking orders. If they know a part is on backorder they need to tell you up front no question. If you agree to wait for them then your SOL as you agreed to wait and you have no right to flame. Now if your order never comes in or they ship you the wrong stuff thats BS and they should fix the problem without additional cost to you. Maybe I'll go talk to Cory about all this crap since I would be pissed too if a companys "nobody" in the back room is screwing up and pissing customers off. Who was the one that "helped" you in the first place.

Tats your wrong... if your running 160psi and have the timing advanced you will have detonation. It depends on what mods you have and how the head is cut or who did the domes as well as any timing advance.

After the bike sits for as little as an hour the castor falls out of suspension and settles in the bottom of the tank. You should shake your bike to mix up any oil that settled out. The best thing you can do is get rid of the castor and switch to something else. I hate that oil... if you take the pipes off any bike running that stuff you'll see a lot of built up carbon.

What caused the dome to be pitted?

MSKarl some piston makers only make 1/2mm oversized pistons. Wiseco makes 1/4mm sized pistons. If a shop bored the cylinders to 1/2mm over which is one over for some shops and you got 1/4mm over pistons you have a stand a good chance of ending up with what you have. You would have to measure the cylinders and pistons out to be sure. Check the other piston for cracks around the intake ports. Did the shop that did the boring have the pistons at the time of the work? They might be liable for the problems even if they deny it.

Where is the hole in the piston? Close to the exhaust side or in the middle?

You can have the +4 crank further stroked but you will have to trench the cases and your port timing will be way off. If you still want to do it call Phil at crank works.

I don't think he had a leaking gasket. If you look at the sealing surfaces of the head you don't see any blow by burn't look any where. You do see a little oil but that looks like it came from spilling it onto the gasket. Show us the inside of the cylinder and take a better close up look of the piston crown.

What size bore? What kind of pistons? The piston crown looks like it suffered some detonation. You said it was recently rebuilt.... who bored/honed the cylinders? The pistons probably broke because of clearance issues. Did you check ring end gap and the piston in the bore when you put the motor together? Who cut the head? They didn't cut the squish band which could have lead to the detonation.

Alba isn't the best choice for porting. They do a very mild port job and I'm not sure if they will work on already ported cylinders. What kind of port job are you looking at getting?

Brendan all I can tell you its been nice not knowing ya. Seriously I bought my own 98 ZX6R as my first bike when I was 20. Insurance was not bad for me since I never had tickets or accidents. I was paying around 80 a month full coverage for just myself on my own policy. Any new 600 will kill you just as fast as a liter bike will. Your just asking for a world of hurt dude. Riding on the street takes 110% of your attention and most of it is not from you making mistakes but from other cage drivers that try to take you out any chance they get. Save your money and buy something like a SV650 or older 600cc crotch rocket. If your still alive in a year or two go ahead and move up to a bigger bike if you still feel like you need it. Starting off with a smaller bike will let you get the feel for riding and hone your skills. It will also keep the insurance costs to a min. and if you keep your record clean the insurance companies will give you a better deal on a bigger bike. What ever you get play it safe and remember stunts and tricks and showing off will kill you just like the little old lady that pulls out in front of you.

Do a search for "air leak" and "leak down test"

The best one is the stainless steel one from Duncan Racing. The aluminum will strip out and stretch pretty fast. The only downside is the cost for the Duncan model.

You can't.... they are not made to be replaced. If you get them out be prepared to buy a new A-arm.

If you have a drill press you could drill the ball with a small drill bit... even though it's hardened a normal new drill bit should cut into it. Drill it out enough that the ball is very thin and just tap it with a punch and a hammer and that should break the remaining bits so you can shake it out. Other wise try to drill the head off the screw and undo all the other screws and take the head off and grab the stub with some pliers.

Can you tell me what fitment problems they were having? There are two spots I know of that could have cause responces like that. One being the lower shock mount being tight. They weld the shock mounts before powder coating and yes it makes it a very tight fit when tring to fit works shocks into place on the first attempt. I know Ricky Stators have the same problems as well as a few others. Second the delron bushings are cut a little small as do the variance in sizes of the inner pivit tube and make that a pain to get the pivit tube in place. Ricky stator also had this problem but he reams his out so customers don't have to mess with doing so. These are minor problems but not worth the "bad things" as you still haven't described. I'll check into who makes the arms and get back to every on them but I'm sure it's not ASR... your thinking about the other A-arms on Alba's site... I know the Procomps are made by a shop in San Diego.

Use premix to lube the pistons/cylinders. Use grease on all the wear surfaces of seals. Use premix on bearings on the crank. Gear oil on all bearing in the tranny and clutch plates. I think that should be all of the spots.

I need the tranny and all associated parts like shift drum kick starter gear... that junk.

So is this a "heard it from a friend that heard it from some guy that heard it from a racer that had his best friends girlfriend buy them"? What did you hear about them exactly? I can give you guys first hand experience with them but it's not needed. I can give you first hand witnessed experience to someone riding with heim joints that were a season or two old in the sand. If you really have valid reasons for not buying Procomp a-arms let us all know. If it's the friend from a friend thing don't bother posting.