dynabanshee

What do you mean blew your sparkplugs? You mean fouled? If you are fouling plugs it is likely your jetting and you need to stop taking apart your motor. If your carbs are in sync and you're lean, you may have an air leak. If your carbs are dialed in, is it blowing different kind of smoke out that side? If so, maybe burning copious amounts of oil or coolant.

Hey guys.... I've got two compressors. A big 3 HP one that is now broken (I flip the switch and it does nothing. Troubleshooted it a bit and could not figure it out). It's been down for a while and never really used it while working on my most recent shee. I've got a small 2 gal craftsman. I think the specs are 125 max psi, 3.7 CSFM at 40psi and 2.X at 90 PSI. Long story short, my little compressor seems to plain suck at giving my C.H. impact wrench enough pressure to turn some of the hard nuts on the bike. For instance, I can easily tighten or remove some bolts/nuts with a ratchet but the impact has a hell of a time. So I know the torque must be low. I was trying to remove the flywheel nut today and it wouldn't even budge it. I can't budge it with my ratchet either. So, I think it need some serious torque for my impact. I am thinking about just buying a new compressor, and they run from about $200 - moon for what I think would be a good one that can adequately power my air tools. What type of compressors do you guys use (or specs I should get) that can power my impact to get these really tough nuts off. Thanks!

Welp, put the shee back together. On top of doing the race logic, I had to replace the clutch, boss, and pressure plate. Also ported the reed cages. Polished the side case, half ass polished the jugs. Put YFZ shocks up front. All sorts of other ticky tack things I've been meaning to do. I was very scared once it was all together to try to fire it up, just expecting the worst. Well, so far so good. Fired up and was running well. Seems it may be a little rich, which seemed a little odd since I expected it to be a little leaner after the port. At any rate, I still had the paddles on so I did not really ride it, just fired it up, let it idle, moved through the gears a little. Without riding it and just listening to it and watching the ferocity of the exhaust leaving, the port seems to make it more spunky. I'll have it out later this week to dial it in and will report back. I have my fingers crossed everything runs great and no breakdowns. =)

Dyna FS for $200

I think you take 4 off, but always measure, don't just cut. When you measure but you chain/carrier adjustment in the middle position.

Hehe, I've searched the forum and see conflicting reports, that is why I asked... I think a better question is, have any of you ever put a YFZ450 shock on personally? If so, was any fab needed and how would you rate it?

Ok, well I think the ratchet strap will be fine, but I need to losen up the preload. I've got a cheap shock wrench (haf moon kinda with the hook), but for the life of me I can't even get the top nut (adjuster) to move, and probably have a hell of time with the one the spring rests on once I get that one turned. Any tips or tricks for turnings these?

Maybe a stroker? If you can find someone (or you want to learn it or buy the programming kit), then it might be a good investment. Most people buy for the timing advance. It has very good curves (keyword curves, not linear +4 timing across the board). Maybe go with some NOS?

Yep, jacked up with the old shocks up. These are stocker arms by the way.

Looking for a set, hopefully PWKs. PM if you have a set for sale.

Looking for a good price for banshee extended a-arms. PM if you've got a set for sale.

Hey, I am putting YFZ shocks on finally and having a hell of a time rigging up a way to compress them. Do you guys use regular auto spring compressors, or do you have trick? I was going to go borrow a auto spring compressor from the parts store, but I think there may not be enough spring to compress it much (won't fit in the tight coils, just the larger ones). Ideas?

If you already have +4 timing, and don't have a real crazy setup, especially NOS, then you can probably put the money elsewhere. I love mine, but I would like to find someone who knows how to program curves near me (Phoenix). If you didn't already have advanced timing I would say go for it. But since you have it, maybe look at suspension or intake. I'm sure you will see some gains, but nothing as drastic as when you are +0 and go to +4. If you plan on running race gas, maybe, since you can bump the timing up more. If you have $300 you just have spend on something then why not...

Take the clutch side case off. No one will know what is wrong until you open it up. Open the case, see if the clutch is functioning properly (engage, disengage). While you are there you can put it into nuetral with the shift star if your tranny isn't shot. You can also turn the primary drive and see if the pistons and crank are turning. If the clutch is fine and the crank/pistons are fine, then you are really left with your trans and you will be splitting the cases. Have even drained your oil yet and checked for debris in there? Get to work and post when you have torn it down enough to isolate the problem.

Honestly I think you could get used arms and YFZ shocks for $400 if you watch ebay. Then you'll have the arms, a nice set of shocks, and when you get some more dough to spend on shocks, sell your YFZs and and buy the Elkas. I don't think you'll get the full potential of your elkas valved at +2 if you are going to run stock arms for a while. I picked up YFZ fronts and rear shock for $120. Just search around. Also check out the cycle trader for YFZ450s for sale with aftermarket shocks. Give em a call and see if they still have the stockers. Might get a great deal.