SDD

Derek if you want to swing it by my place I'll get it working for you for say a few bucks.... don't worry I don't charge shop rates. You can ask Inflames and Justintoxicated about my work. There was another guy on here that I did a ton of work for TRD4X4 but it was actually his girlfriends bike and they broke up. Anyway I'll PM you my number if you want help.

Pretty much any aftermarket shock will do wonders over the stock generic crap. I noticed someone had a set of triple rates for sale for pretty cheap in the for sale section.

Did you get the air strykers? How much did you pay for them as well... I just picked up a set last week prejetted by Sudco.

Where did it break at? If someone cut too much off the surface they tend to come apart at high revs. If the face of the flywheel was cut it's even more likely to happen.

I know there was a couple topics about this on MacDizzy and another forum. I want to hear what the result are if they put a stock crank back in and leave the jetting as it is with the turbo crank. Rejetting a triple that is running poorly could gain 17hp with proper jetting. Everyone tries to reinvent the wheel at some time or another.

You guys are forgetting about the ugliest pos around... the Kawasaki V-force. It looks like a 4X4 SUV with Geo Metro Tires on it. Actually kind of looks like that preying mantis looking cartoon creature on space ghost.

On PJ's if you have the correct pilot jet and air screw settings you can get them to idle just fine. It's like the stock carbs you have to choke it and kick it until it starts. Once it starts you leave the choke on for a few seconds and blip the throttle until it warms up enough that it will idle without the blipping the throttle. This is how I set up PJ's to run. On PWK's you set the idle with the idle screws as you would stock carbs with the TORS removal kit on it. You will still need to use the choke to start the motor and blip the throttle until it warm. The PJ's are discontinued but are still easy to find. I like the PJ's for the idle/choke setup which makes setting up the right hand carb much easier.

Yeah one word of advice... wait until they change the layout of the track. One of my friends broke both arms on the one jump coming out of the whoop section. I heard a guy died 2-3 weeks ago on this same exact jump. If your serious about racing get a new 4 stroke and upgrade the suspension first then power second.

What the hell did you just type? I can't understand a single sentence... well maybe it's because all that is one long sentence! Retype that thing and give us specific information about your current jetting, tempature, altitude, and mods.

What needles do you have in the carbs?

If your YZF is a Canadian model sometimes the VIN has the green sticker digit and the dumbasses at the DMV don't know an LT80 from a CR500 so they send you a green sticker. Thats how I got my green sticker when they were handing out redstickers to all two strokes back in the late 90's. With a red sticker you can't ride from the last day of may until October unless it's on a track.

PM justinxicated... I know for a fact he as a complete set he just took off his banshee. I'm sure he's willing to get them shipped right away too!

Yet another SD guy here. Justin is part of my small group and if he gets a damn job maybe he'll make more trips this year... well now that most of his bike problems are behind him as well. Shoot us an email if you want to tag along or meet us out there. Justin lives close to El Cajon.

FZR1000

Spare me the Details - Offspring

Make sure the choke tube is between the two carbs. Not having it will make it hard to start. Try to press the throttle in about 1/8 throttle and see if it will start. If you let go of the throttle and it stops running unplug the TORS system.

Adjust the air screws so they are even, make sure the slides are even, clean the pilot jet on the side that isn't warm at idle, check your reeds to be sure they are not cracked and that the pedels are flat against the cage.

Do not reuse this crank without rebuilding it. Your bearing seized up and spun in the race with enough force to shear the pin off. You risk having that bearing lock up and ruin the cases. Spend the money to have the crank rebuilt. Take a better picture of the cases and the bearing.

Do you still have the parking brake?

http://www.crankworks.com/ Ask for Phil

I have a cheap mig setup with a bottle of pure argon. Welding aluminum with this setup sucks. I should have saved up a few more bones for a tig setup. I also have a Victor Super Range oxy/acty setup ( http://www.ramweldingsupply.com/products-view.mcic?s=1187 ). I love playing with the gas setup as you can do just about anything you can do with any other type of welder and a bit more.

You need a bore guage...

What am I looking for... how about a Glock 34 to go along with my Glock 35 or maybe some full cap G22 mags 15 rounders. I don't need the +2 extensions. Mags must be full metal lined as well. Wouldn't mind a G24 upper if anyone has one to spare.

you forgot to edit the front plate in the second picture blo me

I think flying lead would hurt much more... you willing to test my theory out? I'll let you shoot me in the leg from 10 feet away then I get to shoot you with a 180 grain flying ashtray from the same distance. Just let me know if it hurts.