troyminator

Alright! Got those bastards out! Didn't damage any thing either I put the hubs in the oven at 100C for about 10 mins and poped those suckers out! Getting close to sending stuff out now Thanks for the advice guys! I'll post pics when I get things back, and along the way! T

Thanks for all the information guys. I will work to get those lil' bastards out! As for the PCer, I am going to use a guy that works on Banshee frames all the time in San Diego. Don't want to ship cross country. Too much $$ Thanks again! T

Hello All, I am going to powdercoat my front and rear hubs while other things are getting powdercoated. Do I need to remove the bearnigs...or just the seals? Those damn things are hard to get out and are piss'n me off Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, T

Thanks CEJ and JKJK! I'll look into the o-rings and then go from there and see if I need to do any sanding. Thanks again! -T

Hello, I pulled off my steering stem and noticed that there is some wear in the area around the seals that appears that it was wearing. I noticed before when I rode that there was some front to back movement on the handlebars and I am guessing that this is the reason. Is this normal, or do I need to replace it? Thanks! T

These are parts I took off my banshee. The grooves were already done to them when I got my bike. It came off a 93' Banshee. It will come with the clamps pictured to mount to your frame. I don't believe there are any other modifications required to get this to fit. As you can see in the picture, the axle plate has a bend in it, but it could be hammered out. The pictures show it had done it's job...protect the bike. PM me with offers.

I have the foam and grey seat cover for a banshee that I no longer need. The foam is a desert seat (meaning it is taller than stock). The cushion is Med-Firm. The cover doesn't have any tears or cuts. The foam will fit directly onto your stock seat base. Normal "wear" marks on the area where my leg would rub near the tank. Will let you see over the dunes a bit more. PM me with offers.

I have a set of front and rear plastics (including the radiator cover and polished radiator insert) for sale. PM me with reasonable offers. As for trades, I will entertain offers other than plastics.

So no pic's guys. Trying to PM ya, but your box if full. T

That's a great idea! Thanks, T

Anyone?

Hey guys, I have a 96 blaster as a spare bike and the top end finally went out this weekend. I pulled the head off today and noticed that the piston was seized and had been "shaving" off material off of the piston on the exhaust port of the cylinder. I was going to take the cylinder to be bored out to the next size, so here are my questions: - I couldn't physically see any metal debris in the crank...but you can't really see too much anyhow, so do I need to split the cases and clean everything out or will it be fine...The cylinder definitely had metal shavings in it...and it looked as if the exhaust ports had extra metal where it "shaved" material off of the top of the piston - Also, is there any way to flush stuff out of the crank area without splitting the cases? - If I decided to get the cylinder port/polished, would there be other stuff required to get the bike to run right...it has a bill's pipe on it (diff carb?, etc) - Will I be safe to just rebuild the top end with a new piston/boring out to the next piston size? I know that it isn't a banshee, but it is a Yamaha, so I figured allot of you guys may have these bikes for your wife/kids...so your help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks again, T

I don't want to answer for Jim...but I know that he did offer resleeving when my motor was done. Just PM him. He is great at responding to his PM's. T

I painted my cylinders with the same paint and clear coated em..(high temp paint of course)...but it seems like if I spray carb clearner near them...they want to begin to run.

I know that there are allot of post to go over clutch adjustment problems Clutch Mechanism Adjustment , WTF!!! was one with allot of useful tips...but I still need help. I fried my last clutch. Here is the post about this: High RPM Clutch Slipping Now I got new fibers and steel plates. - I soaked them in oil for >30mins - I installed them into the basket (Started with friction plate, then steel plate, etc etc) - I put the pushrod into the clutch hub opening (with a dab of lithuim grease on both ends) - I placed the ball into the hub opening - Next, I Put the the clutch inner hub onto the clutch basket. (The little arrow on the hub is lined up with the arror on the basket) - I carefully tigtened all of the bolts with the springs (1/4 turn at a time) - I loosed the clutch cable all the way to the perch...I tried doing it with the cable out, but I wanted to be able to pull on it with the clutch lever. - I tried to push little metal lever on the top of the clutch case (Is it always so hard to push? Had to almost pry it with a screw driver to get enough leverage ) - I tried to adjust the center adjustment bolt to get the arrows to line up with the metal lever and case arrow, but I am pretty much all the way in, almost have no threads left for the lock nut. Something doesn't seem right ??? What am I doing wrong? I don't have the rubber cushions on the clutch. I just tightened the spring bolts until they were at 10 N-m. For one, I think I am going to need a new adjustment bolt...my current one is beginning to strip (Damn Phillips head! ) Please help. I don't want to burn up another clutch! Thanks! T