SDD

Tors works when the thumb throttle doesn't match the tors switches on top the carbs...up or down. It doesn't care. Adjust the thumb screws on top of the carbs one in say 5-10 turns more than the other side while holding the throttle open a little more than 1/8. It should run just fine. Release the throttle and I bet it dies.

You could use a drill and drill a small hole in the end of the rod and tap it out. screw in a long bolt and pull. Most likely it's mushroomed on the the other end as well so you're better off splitting the case. Replace the clutch throw out arm if it shows any signs of wear.

Those aren't guns... those are toys! I thought you had some good stuff on there

Remove the pilot jet on the side that is cold at idle. Hold the pilot jet up to the light and see if there is something plugging up the pilot jet. I normally use a wire twist from a loaf of bread to unplug the ones I have come across.

I think the green and yellow are the positive wires, one for low beam the other for high. I have my hellas tied into both of these wires so it doesn't matter if I bump the light switch to high my lights will stay on. Just remember to stay under 75 watts of TOTAL light output.

Depends on the year but I'd have to say it's not the TORS system as it only works when you let go of the throttle. The Parking brake system is what seems to be the problem. If you still have the parking brake follow the small switch on the clutch perch down behind the radiator and unplug the connector. Start it up and see if it still bogs when you rev it up.

As long as you don't have more than 75 watts of total light output you will be fine. Remember the tail light is 5 watts normally.

You should only have to remove the clutch cover. It's probably the claw piece that turns the shift star.

I think the biggest problem is the person working on it. If you don't have th patients or the knowledge to work on a piece of machinery that needs attention ever time it's ridden you should have left it stock and take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Anyway to answer your questions the air screws can look like they are set differently on each carb and it doesn't matter as long as they are turned in until they stop and then turned out the same amount ie... 1.5 turns. Next the jetting is still off which could lead to one side smoking more than the other at idle. Depending on what mods are done to the motor (sounds like passion ported it) you will have a hell of a time jetting that thing with stock carbs. How do I know this??? Ask Justintoxicated and Inflames who helped them with their Banshees. Until they put other larger carbs on their machines it didn't matter what I tried the jetting wouldn't work just right. From what I have found you will need custom needles made for the stock carbs and 30-32.5 pilots and 370 mains at sea level. Your best bet will be to save your pennies and buy some 28 pwks. You don't want bigger carbs as you will need intakes and other stuff to make that setup work. Well that should be more than enough to get you pissed at me....

I can get new 35s for that much http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_keihin_flat_...tm#PWK%20SERIES

Justin certain types of that braided hose can't handle the heat that the coolant gets to. I had a friend blow the braided hose off his Banshee twice in one day. The next day at the dunes he switched to the stock hoses and no more problems. The plastic melts and the hose pops off.

Read this http://www.poetonaptec.co.uk/technica/pistonguide.htm Holes in the center of the piston normally indicates detonation problems.

What brand of clear radiator hoses are you using?

If you really packed in the grease it will not roll smoothly. What has higher viscosity oil or grease? Is it easier to squirt oil out of a gun or grease? If you didn't over tighten the bearings don't worry about the drag as long as you don't hear any strange noises. Once the grease works its way out of the bearings it will roll smoothly.

Blowing the spark plug out of the head while riding it is a sure sign you had serious detonation issues. Take the timing back to stock or run higher octane gas. You'll be doing another rebuild every couple of months if you don't. Do a leak down test when you get it rebuilt and make sure you don't have any air leaks.

Sounds like you lean seized and had a little detonation. The clear/clean portion of the piston is normal if it's right where the transfer and intake ports are. Did you have any problems with it running out of gas recently? What type of fuel are you using? What timing are you running? How much compression?

120-150 just for finding whats wrong with it no reassembly.

A guy on ASA is selling a set with 95% tread left on the tires... www.asasand.com

The guy working on my 7mm motor used to be so damn busy he couldn't do any work because the phone was ringing off the hook. Then add emails on top of that and you don't have time to wipe your own a55. He actually ended up getting a operator setup so he could port cylinders and talk on the phone at the same time. Now he hasn't taken in any new work and lets all phone calls go to voice mail and if he doesn't like your subject line on your email it goes to the delete bin. I've been waiting for 3 months and I'll wait a few more to get the ultimate dune machine.

jsyi, Alba has been dropping the ball on ordering parts lately. Even I have been waiting on some items that should have been ordered but whom ever sold the last one didn't order new stock. The girl that is working in the back shipping orders doesn't know jack and the parts guys know that she has screwed up. Things will be even more stressful in the next few weeks as the girls that answer the phone are new. The one girl that was always there left for a new job. Oh well, at least I can just walk in and get what I need.

I wonder if you get better prices than I do... how much for a +4 Banshee swingarm?

Justin unless you are running alky or a NOS system you will not out flow the filter or the stock petcock. Just swing your bike by and I'll get it sorted.

I've got a Axle on my Banshee... its been holding up great. His A-arms are nice as well. Rich is a good guy to buy stuff from... lucky for me I live close to his shop and had a chance to stop by in person to buy stuff. Now that he moved his shop up to a different area of town I don't think he has a store front any more but I'm sure the service is still there. I BS'ed with him for a good hour or so and before I left he gave me a hat and a bunch of stickers... can't beat that deal.

Did you unplug the TORS plug under the tank? Its the three wired white connector? Another member of this site just put carbs on and this was his problem... he never unplugged the TORS system and when you release the throttle it would push in the switch in the throttle housing causing it to trip the TORS (system still works even if you just unplug the stock throttle switch). Anyway if he wants to let you guys know about this I'm sure he will post if he feels like it.

Wassup did you happen to change needle settings recently?