SDD

It depends on how good of a machinist bored/honed your cylinder and how easy you are on breaking in your motor. I have .003 clearance on my cylinders but I take my time warming my bike up before each ride.

Looks kind of like the "lock" washer that hold the primary drive and water pump gears onto the crank. Those pictures make that thing look big though. The washer is fairly small.

I believe that seal does not have a lip on it (better double check first or get a new seal first so you can tell)... pull the sprocket spacer out and that should give you enough room to pull the old one. Make sure that spacer doesn't have a groove or build up on it that will tear up the new seal.

With stock carbs you will have a hell of a time getting your ported motor to run correctly. Make sure you do not have an air leak. How much time did you have on those spark plugs before checking the jetting?

I just put my RK tek head on last week... I bet it's the large orings that seal the head onto the cylinders. I used enough grease to hold the ring in place when I inverted the head shell. I was able to slide the shell down far enough that I could shine a flash light in there and double check everything was still in place. What compression ratio did you have Kelsey set your head up to run?

1992 Banshees don't have the parking brake rev limiter. Double check your jets... specially your pilots, one if not both are probably clogged.

Make sure the choke tube in between the two carbs.

You might gain a small amount of travel but it will not really be noticable, say less than one inch with stock a arms. Since you live close to Glamis I can make you a deal if you are willing to spend this much... I can get you Alba Procomp A arms (Black Powdercoated) with Elka dual rate self sagging (SSD) shocks no rezzy's setup to your weight and braided steel brake lines. It won't be as cheap as just shocks but you'll like this setup much more. PM or email me if your interested

What kind do you want? Dual Triple remote rezzy piggy back full adjustable SSD

Calling SANDRAT... WHERE THE f*ck ARE YOU DIRTBAG? CRAWL OUT OF YOUR MOMS ASS AND POST A REPLY YOU LITTLE BITCH. You owe someone some stuff and you haven't come up with your half of the deal. No excuses punk.... seal the deal and get the shit sent!

From what I read the kevlar particles suspended in the tranny oil causes wear. It supposed to be a problem only on wet clutch systems like what motor cycles have so having a kevlar clutch on a car or truck is no problem. I believe 4 stroke motorcycles have this problem worse than 2 smokers as the particles get up into the cam bearings and wears the whole system out. I think this is a big problem on bikes that do not get regular oil changes. If you read the instructions that come with any Hinson clutch basket they specifically tell you not to use Kevlar friction plates so thats what I do... avoid kevlar.

To set the idle speed you need the idle kit which includes a drill bit, a tap, and 2 idle screws with lock nuts. The main problem with the TORS system is trying to get the stupid tops back on the carb body after you take a carb out for rejetting. The TORS system doesn't really fail as often as people say they do but it's a good excuse to get rid of them. The positives of removing the TORS system are less weight, easier to remove/install carbs, easier to make needle setting changed, and it looks cleaner. Negatives are no more safety factor of having something kill the ignition of your throttle sticks, and the removal kit is kind of expensive specially if you plan on getting different carbs in the future anyway.

Ok enough with the guesses... take the pilot jets out and clean them out with a needle or small wire. After you put the carbs back together double check the air screw settings.

What color is your tranny oil and are both plugs red?

Complete Hinson 8 plate setup with FZR plates and springs. Serious drag motor step up to some straight cut gears as well... avoid kevlar friction plates.

Ask Justintoxicated on this site... he's got carbs and the whole airbox setup

Ken what brand of chain were you running? I seriously doubt a DID X-ring ATV chain would have broken if someone rear ended you but then again if it folded the sprocket it still could have knocked the chain off of it and cracked the case.

Kenr74 I'm not just picking on you but I'm going to say this to everyone that has had a chain crack the cases. DON'T BE SO FREAKING CHEAP AND BUY TOP SHELF CHAINS aka... DID X-ring ATV or sim and replace the sprockets when they are worn. If you haven't priced a new set of cases you should. It's far cheaper to replace a 60 dollar chain and 50 bucks worth of sprockets every year than buy new cases every year. Don't buy aluminum rear sprockets as well unless you plan on replacing them very often. I went through a cheap rear sprocket in 3 rides. Steel rear sprockets are cheaper than aluminum and hold up better to the abuse. A case saver can save your cases but it's still not good to run your chain until it snaps or falls off the sprockets. Make sure you have the correct tension when you setup your new chain and sprockets and check it before every ride.

Pismo is about the best bet... camp on the beach and ride the dunes or jump on the jet ski and ride the ocean.

I've got one... nice and straight off my 99. Where do you live and how much are you looking to spend?

Those do not have adjustable rebound. They have adjustable preload and compression dampening. I have the pro series with remote rezzies which do have the adjustable compression and rebound settings. At any rate those are going for a pretty good price as long as the shafts are not pitted. The fully adjustable ones like mine go for around 850 but those are probably 600+ new.

I like oem gaskets. I don't like how they leave that black coating when you peel them off though. I find oem gaskets are cheaper as well... all you have to do is ask your dealer to give you a deal on that stuff. They make a ton of profit on that stuff.

With advanced timing and a lot of compression you better be running race gas... no amount of pump fuel will keep that thing from detonating. Let us know what compression you have and what the timing is.

Check the pilot jet... it's probably plugged up

Try some fresh plugs and don't be afraid to hold the gas open to get it started. Make sure you have your thumb on the kill switch as it could be an air leak that is causing the problem starting. You should do a leak down test as well if you have the tools to do it. How much oil and what type did you use to assemble the topend? You might have used too much if the plugs are coated with oil. Good luck.... and if you need help give me a ring... I have another machine coming over tomorrow for some suspension setup anyway.