SDD

Nice advice Triple gave you huh... oil works well too if you give it time to soak in and loosen up the rust and corrosion. How exactly did you break off the studs anyway? I have used the jam nut and vice grips to get cylinder and case studs loose with no problems.

Calvin will not be casting a 10mm but almost all the builders are making 10mm's out of the 7mm motors.

He means someone will break a stud off flush with the case... you can get stud extenders instead of replacing the stud. If you do replace the stud spray it with WD-40 or sim and let it soak in for a night. The next day you can try the jamb nut trick or just clamp a set of vice grips on it to remove the studs.

The overall deisgn of the cylinders is way better than the factory Yamaha decided to cast for us. CPI's cub cylinders have a much better 6 transfer port design as well as triple exhaust ports and much better intake area. The Cubs/Cheetahs have port timings already at a level that is far advanced compared to the stock cylinders port layout. This doesn't mean it's a drag motor from the get go but does mean it will not be a trials motor. Think of them as a good dune port from the factory. Another nice feature about the cubs is the coolant passages/jackets. The coolant passages are larger in areas where they need to be to keep temps in check. Anyway to answer Bansheeman 1= everything you currently have be it aftermarket or stock should fit the cub cylinders with the exception of the pistons. Your stock or aftermarket head, pipes, reeds, intake, and carbs should just bolt in place just as if the stock cylinders are there. The only questionable thing is the stock airbox... I'll get back to you guys on that. 2=is answered above 3=There is no need to bore the cylinders as they are nikasil plated. Light siezures and scuffing normally only affects the piston on these cylinders. Should something like a ring snag or something simular you must send the cylinders out to be repaired. The shop will strip off the nikasil coating and weld up any gouged areas with a welder (aluminum) and then bore to a size a little larger than the final bore size. After boring they recoat the nikasil to a thickness that will bring the cylinders back into the proper bore size. Nikasil should last a long time if you take care of your stuff. The replating process costs a couple hundred more than the typical bore and hone if that much. If you want exact numbers I can find out for you guys but it really shouldn't be an issue unless you run without filters or just flat out beat your motor. Anymore questions?

Why bother with doing a big bore kit if your cylinders are toast. Perfect time to step up to Cheetah Cub cylinders. As far as your failure it sounds like lack of lubrication. What does the bottom of the piston look like on the side that didn't let go? Does it have a black spot under the piston? Since your the one that put everything back together it's going to be hard to prove that something actually failed. Did you lube the wrist pin bearing when you assembled the motor... I know you probably did but what did you use?

You can use B8ES, BR8ES, B8EG, BR8EG, B8EV, BR8EV, B8EIX , and finally BR8EIX. The R is a resister plug as mentioned. All the new banshees come with BR8ES plugs and some of the older years actually require resister plugs the the spark noise wouldn't interfear with the CDI. If you run a Dyna ignition system you must run resister plugs for this same reason. The "S" series plugs is your standard large center electrode. The "G" series is a nickel electrode with a fine tip (I think .15). The "V" series might be platinum but don't quote me on that and has a slightly finer wire than the G plugs (I believe .13). Then the top of the line Iridium plugs EIX series... they are expensive but are extremely hard to foul. If you are willing to spend 8 dollars a plug then go for the EIX plugs. If you don't want to spend that much the G and V series are around 5 dollars each. If your a cheap ass or broke buy the standard S plugs for 1.50 each. If your machine is jetted right you shouldn't have fouling problems and you shouldn't need to replace plugs unless you just feel the urge to. If you want the exact specs of each type of plug check out www.ngksparkplugs.com

T-6 is a treatment level not the actual type of aluminum. 4043, 6061, 6063, 7075 are types of aluminum.

I'm not sure yet. I know Ohton was going to dyno his sets, More Torque will be dynoing his 7mm sometime next week if all goes to plan. Trinity who knows. Trick no idea but they are or will be introuble for listing the cubs for less than 875. Southern style I don't know if they will be dynoing anything close to stock... there are a ton of shops that have these cylinders. I guess I should say this... just because on builder can get 5-10 hp more than another doesn't mean you will be faster than someone else with the same motor from another builder. Being able to put all the power to the ground is what will win the race in most cases. I know... blaa blaa you guys already know this....

In my opinion both have their place. I believe heims should have a thru bolt... as is the case with adjustable upper a-arms. I don't believe heims are designed to have side pressure applied to a stud like the spindle mount. Once sand starts to wear the open ball in a heim the joint will get sloppy and will eventually fall out. Ball joints are bigger/heavier but require almost nothing to maintain them. They both have the same shear point where the cup attaaches to the bolt portion. If you want adjustability (I don't know anyone that adjusts the camber/caster once it's set) then go with the heims. If you want to bolt on and go get ball joints. Just remember to lube the heims from time to time.

Not all drag motors eat rings or pistons on a regular basis. The guy that developed the Saber motor ran the same piston and rings for over a couple hundred dyno sessions on Alky trying to extract the most out of it. 98HP and 60+ pounds or torque from a large bore single. That same topend is about a year old now.

You'll be kicking everyone elses ass thats for sure...

Dan may have had some behind the scenes part in the design but there were a few others that had more input than Dan.

For 875 you get it as is. That cylinder has had the transfer ports matched up (they were 4* off from the factory). It took 2 hours to do that work so thats why its 900. All the other guys that do "clean up porting" just clean any casting flaws. That does not include matching port timings.

Here is the cubs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMESE%3AIT Who's going to buy?

You guys want Cub Cylinders... here you go http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMESE%3AIT More on the way!

Rick the owner of Alba??? I don't think so. The owner is Cory Hove. I don't even know anyone named Rick at Alba.

Matt... Britt is going to run me over with the YFZ next time she see's me huh? Britt I didn't tell him I swear! It's not my fault he tends to spend money at will when I'm around!

795's??? Is this a long rod or stroker?

Listen to Matt (Wallrat). Realflight is a great program as it has an actual control which really helps out. I've been flying on Real Flight for over 9 month now and have been saving up for a Heli. From what I hear the real rc heli's are a tad easier to fly than the Real Flight ones. Hey Matt what do you fly? I have a trainer that has been collecting dust waiting for better weather.

Cole your compression will also depend on your bore size and exhaust port timing. If your over 65.5 in bore I bet that your compression is close to 215.

RU-0620 2.25 in (57 mm) 3.5 in (89 mm) 6 in (152 mm) Rubber 0.625 in (16 mm) 0 degrees RB-0620 2.25 in (57 mm) 3.5 in (89 mm) 6 in (152 mm) Rubber 1 in (25 mm) 5 degrees RU-1090 2.25 in (57 mm) 3.5 in (89 mm) 6 in (152 mm) Rubber 0.75 in (19 mm) 10 degrees RU-1720 2.25 in (57 mm) 3.5 in (89 mm) 6 in (152 mm) Rubber 1 in (25 mm) 20 degrees These will fit 33-35 pwks 34pjs for sure... maybe 38 pwk and 36pj

It costs 21 dollars to register every other year... your poor friend needs to sober up for a week so he can register his bike.

What part number did you order? Justintoxicated, Inflames, myself, and another guy from a different board all run RU1090 filters (3.5" outer diameter 6" long 10*angle to help clear the pipes) and 115-6T outerwares. I have Alba special order them for me but they should have at least 8 in stock right now. These will fit 33-35 PWK carbs and maybe 38 PWKs as I believe they are from the same castings.

You wouldn't just prove it to Justin... your posting to a general audience known as all the members of this site. Feel free to post your insights, insults, and rhetoric.

Yeah the builders that are having them nikasil plated as they get them isn't the problem... it's when a batch comes out they are taking a while to get done before getting shipped out to distributers.