SDD

No disrespect to you guys running QSM arms but I hate heim joints. I'd take a set of sealed ball joints any day over heims.

If you switch plug wires and the right side is still firing clean the pilot jet on the left side. Readjust the air screws so they are even. Make sure the choke tube is there. Make sure the carb is getting gas.

You most likely over heated the engine and sucked a gasket or seal. Try a leak down test and compression test to be sure you didn't vent a piston.

UPS is around 16 bucks 4 days to ship with insurance USPS is around 20 bucks priority mail 2 days to ship with insurance I guess I could accept paypal as I have an account with them. Let me know if you want them.

Gobbler when I took the airbox lid off my girlfriends shee before she had pipes I used 290 main jets with 30 pilots and dynojet needles. With this jetting it ran perfectly at sea level at the dunes (Glamis). No other mods besides the K&N adapter plate and jetting was done.

60 plus shipping for both... let me know if you want them. They are from my 99. Ask Inflames and Justintoxicated as far as the condition of my stuff.

The needle needs to be leaned out. I have two friend as well as myself that have the same problem. Only difference is we are running stock carbs for now. Try to move the clip on the needles towards the blunt end.

LIsurfer make sure the rings are seated properly. Sometimes the rings will rotate and slip off the pins in the pistons when putting the cylinders on.

You won't find Elka for that price but maybe Works. If you want a good deal on Elka's call Alba and ask for Mike Stralo in parts.... tell him Paul sent you and he'll give you a discount. Best thing is they have them in stock now and are getting another 10k order coming in the next couple of weeks.

Yeah I made those aluminum end caps out of 3/4" thick 6061 T6 plate. The tubes that go into the hush kit have a round flange that I drilled 3 holes in a radial pattern. I drilled and tapped holes in the end caps and screwed the tubes in there with stainless steel bolts. Did a few other minor things to get them to fit and bolted everything back together. I didn't want to buy the Turbine cores as they were 240 or so from the stealership. The hush kit only cost me 170 and the other materials were about 10 bucks.

I mix my oil at the usual ratio but put in a richer main jet. If you add more oil to the gas you lean the amount of fuel going to the combustion process. You want it to have a little extra oil to help wear things in properly but not at the cost of leaning it out and causing heat. I would put in a 320 main for the first tank of gas then rejet to what the machine should be running.

It will run ok and will not damage anything if it's jetted properly. You will not get the maximum amount of power out of your setup if it's not working together.

I have the triple rate pro series on my banshee. I wanted dual rates but I think the pro series only comes in triple. It did make it ride much better and landing jumps without bottoming.

Pimp no they are not. Everything is bolted together. Other than making the end caps there really isn't much involved with this mod. You do have to cut the preferated tube core in the silencer about an inch shorter though.

You can modify your silencer like I did... click link http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28154

I will sometimes use a compressor that I drain all the pressure out of then kick it on for a few seconds. Since it has a regular schrader valve you can use a tire pump to pressurize the motor. Either way same test as long as your careful not to put more than 8-10 psi in the motor. The other intake plug will pop out before any seals dislodge though.

You guys see the 350 Raptor yet? Might be worth looking into.

I made my own leak down tester. In all the parts cost me about 15 bucks in parts from Home Depot. The main part is a gas pressure tester. The air valve is built in and the other parts needed are a plug some 1/4" tube with threaded ends and a plug tap as well as something large enough to plug the intake. Anyway here is a crappy picture of just the guage portion of my setup. Oh yeah it's graduated in 1/10 of a PSI. I just checked my motor last night. Held 6psi for over 20 mins.... I guess I should have gotten off the phone and worked on my motor... damn girlfriends

Approved spark arrestors are stamped with an approval number.

Read the yamaha website.... http://www.yamaha-motor.com/products/units...atv&cid=1&mid=2 Banshee fuel tank 3.2 gallons Anyway on a side note I'm surprized no one has mentioned the Raptor 350. I just found it on the Yamaha site.

Maybe this image will work... this the hush kit I mounted on my FMF power core 2 silencers. Let me know if these pics don't work. I'll move them to a different server if they don't.

I read about the new 4 gallon take recently. It doesn't require as much cutting to your front fender to fit the thing... maybe none at all. Anyway the thing that sucks about it is the fact it only hold .8 gallons more than the stock tank. I guess if you wanted a little more gas without having the full 5.6 gallon tanker fuel tank this would be the way to go.

Did you guys read the part where he says on side stays cooler than the other. He clearly needs the pink power band on the side that stays cool and a yellow for the other side. Just call up your local dealership and they should have them in stock.

Before you tear it down for a new topend you might want to try a better gauge if you have a cheap/old one. What altitude and what tempature are you taking the kicking compression tests at? You should measure your cylinders before boring them to be sure it's really neccessary. The problem is actually measuring them out. You need some specific tools to get the info you need to make the decision. If everything is in check maybe just rings are in order to get things back up to where they should be.

I have upper A-arms from my 99 with tight ball joints. 50 plus shipping