Banchetta

The mains are for full throttle, not to be confused w/ high rpms...Put some 340-350 mains in there, run it wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, coast to a stop, pull the plugs....black is rich, brown is perfect, tan is lean. Look at the tip of the plug.

Ditto

You have something in the main jet or pilot jet....pull the carb and blow it out w/ an air compressor...I'd do a compression check and make sure you didn't hurt the piston....

Its a good think you didn't run that very long....Start off w/ 300's and go from there..this is for 60 degree temps. If your colder than that, then go to 320's to start...Run it in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, coast to a stop and take another pic of those plugs....looking at them you did a wot run and rode back home...make sure you check the plugs after the wot run, cruising after will alter what they look like....I would also order some 30 pilots..Pc pipes like a rich pilot, you must have a hard time starting it???

I wouldn't narrow it to just those 2 pipes, depending on your type of riding, other pipes might suit you better...

I would save your money on reeds for now and get a cool head and timing key....that'll give you a lot more acceleration. Reeds won't do shit unless your ported...if they do, then your jetting was off.

So how do like the pc's???? Fmf's have more low end, but pc's pull harder on top.

Are you running mikunis or keihin carbs??? It doesn't sound right for the jetting for either carb....too lean for mikunis and too rich for keihins.....need more info..

Exactly, that is the ground strap. Also known as your temp guage....lol. Too lean will make your shee run hot which will turn the ground strap light tan, really lean will melt the tip of the plug and your pistons... , your pipes are designed to run peak hp at 1200 degrees...if your strap is black, then your rich since the motor is running a lot cooler and can't burn all the fuel...you want a chocalate brown color....this makes it to the point where your burning all the fuel, but not getting too hot.....the outer circle outside where the threads are should be black, as you look up the ground strap, you want the color change to be at the 90 degree bend and turning to chocalate brown or dark brown....

What color was the tip of the plug? Not the porcelain, but the "finger" or ground strap. The outer circle should be black, while the tip should be brown...as for the 5th clip, just try it...it'll either pull like a train right from the bottom or it'll fall on its face.. you'll know!!!

Those charts look scary, even the good one....

I think wallrat pretty much nailed it...you already know how the pt mids go. Does he have a cool head or NOSS head? Timing is good for 2hp across the whole curve..Dan @Patriot makes one hell of a mean low end stroker....JKJK's shee has instant throttle like the Pt mids have w/ incredible pull, but smooth. Depends how much money he wants to dish.......

Adjust your idle to the highest w/ the air screws, then adjust your idle w/ the idle screws on the sides like wallrat said.

Ditto, you adjust and sync the cables, but you also have to sync the idle screws. If you have one idle screw holding the slide higher than the other side, then your shee won't idle as smooth or start as well...it'll also help w/ throttle response, since both sides will be running in harmony as oppose to one side pulling the other...once you hit the throttle then the response will be better since the air/fuel ratio will be more similiar for both sides....even after you whack the throttle, it takes a couple of seconds for the air/fuel ratio in the lower end to clean out to the new mixture of open throttle.......the little things that cost nothing makes a difference..

Definately, I'll get a hold of you at the end of the week...Haven't seen you in a while....Get a sled, lets go sledding up north!!!!!

Don't let it fool you...fmf pipes like a rich needle and will pull harder before powerband...if you running stock reeds, then I'd try the needles in the 5th clip...just try different settings and you'll feel the difference..plug readings on the needles is worthless. The black porcelain tells you nothing...my porcelains are jet black.....after a year!!! As for the air screw, it WILL make a difference on response..try .5 turn out, then 1.5, then 2.5...Do a big change to feel the difference, then fine tune...I find fmf shees to like the .5 turn out better here in New England, but I jetted a shee in Glamis and it liked to be at 2.5 turns out, so just try both...Just remember you can get some decent low end back w/ jetting, but those pipes do sacrifice low end from stock pipes....fmf gnarlies, pt mids have better low end...

I've only rode on one set of them and they were on a 4mil stroker....They were extremely peaky and no fun to ride. Strictly drag...but jetting could have been a factor since the owner didn't want to change anything when I was there...I think they are comparable to the Pro Circuits, BUT its really not a fair call, since this was not on a stock shee w/ stock porting....The difference between an extreme top end pipe like CPI, shearer, rockets,etc and from T5, fmf fatties, T6, Trinity, PT highs and minimal in a drag....maybe 1 bike length....depending on terrain, the higher revving the pipe, the harder they are to launch in hard pack since they just blaze the tires....I win a lot of drags racing my buddys in hard pack gravel roads w/ my PT midrange pipes...they just hook and pull out the hole 3-4 bike lengths and maintain until top end...if your riding in sand w/ paddles, then the high revs will have the advantage......so if your on hard terrain w/ knobbies, go for your type of riding instead of dragging....for fast roads...T5's. They have a decent bottom end to help pull out of the corners at high speeds..

I know the T5's like the 340-350 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilot...I don't think the pilots will solve your issues....how does it start when cold? warm? if it starts up easy, then the pilots are good. Adjust the air screws and see where they like to be at..try .5 turn out, 1.5 turns out, then 2.5 turns out..the mains will help it pull harder on top and keep the motor cooler.. needles should help pull out of the hole..Run stock gearing or less w/ paddles.

Are you still running the stock filter??? Also, why do you think its rich in the midrange.....Hesitating before powerband?? or is it breaking up? Do you have aftermarket reeds or stock? Also have you adjusted the air screws to best throttle response? Try .5 turn out, 1.5 turns out, then try 2.5 turns out..see which one is better. Answer ALL these questions, we can get it for you.

I think someone else is confused, the pilot screw can be set between .5 turn out to 2.5 turns out....depending on highest idle and best throttle response. We are ONLY talking about the different between idle and pilot screws...How did the cable adjusters get thrown into this???? I mentioned before about syncing the idle and idle adjusters, not cable...

A set of pipes will give you another 10-12 mph or more which will get you around 85mph w/ a 15/41 gear....anything larger on the gear will bog the motor out all the time when climbing or trying to do 2nd gear holeshots...Get some T5's for both riding.

Well what do you not like about the pc pipes? We can steer you better if you describe what you want or what you don't like now..

Stock pipes!!!!

Better could mean a 100 different things. If you want us to help, we need specifics...if you want more revs, more low end or are you just looking for more power??

Try it, only one way to find out.