Banchetta

Just because its fouling plugs, it doesn't mean the main jet is the culprit.. a rich pilot or needle will foul plugs as well...most companies are too lean not too rich. Something isn't making any sense. Make sure you have the right recommendations for the carb you have. Like bansheeseat said. Check if you have a Mikuni or Keihin carb and go from there.

:yelrotflmao: :laugh: :woot: Don't ever listen to the companies....2003 is dead on.....330 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilot, adjust the air screw to throttle response...this is for either the 2 into 1 box, or stock box w/ no lid or modded lid..sea level and 70 degree temps.

Check your float height, you can adjust them. 21mm from the float to the edge of the bowl. Go to a carb sight and they have pics that'll explain it better....there is a metal tab that touches the float needle when the floats move..you can bend that top to adjust the height.

I'm running a 4 mil stroker w/ mx port and shearer pipes w/ 34pj. I'm running a 58 pilot, 172 mains, needle 3rd clip.....This is for sea level and between 50-80 degrees temperature... My guess on a 7 mil w/ CPI's would be about the same since your elevation is a little higher, but I would up the mains for colder temps.. :thumbsup:

If you put the shorter one in, it might not get the fuel depending on the height of the fuel in the bowl. Especially when your riding and going up hills, etc....go to magicracing.com They have 24 hour online shopping.

He pretty much hit it on the nose....The reed will richen the mid section, so if your jetting was spot on before then you'll have to lower the needles one clip. Throw them in and try it out. Your pretty cold over there now, so they will only help..I agree w/ the race fuel, you don't need it. As for detonation, look for shiny aluminum specs along the outside ring on the plugs. That would be the aluminum off the pistons.

magicracing.com

First thing I'd do is get a compression test on it...If your below 165psi, then I'd run straight 93 octane. Race fuel won't help out performance wise other than detonation. As long as your below 165psi you won't detonate. Next, I'd put some 300 mains in there for those temps...You'll probably be around a 260 in the summer, your needles should be 4th clip w. v-force reeds and 5th clip w/ stock reeds. 27.5 pilots for winter and stock 25's for summer. There is no way your top end is better w/ 240 mains.....your seat of the pants dyno isn't working too well...Run your shee wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, pull the clutch in, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs...light tan is lean, chocalate is perfect, black is rich...that'll get your mains dialed in...you might also want to get a new K&N filter...if the other owner used detergents to clean the filter, then it could very well be clogged and you can't clean it. Detergents will ruin a K&N and gums up the gauze in the filter..

Most likely your way too lean. Does it feel like someone is hitting the kill switch after holding it wide open for a few seconds or is it acting like the choke is on. 280's are lean for 15 degrees outside. You probably need 300's or larger for those temps. Also to rule out your tors. Disconnect the 3-wire plug above you left exhaust the goes to a little black box...You don't need it and has been known to cause issues like that.

Leave them off, you will lose hp on the dyno. I know!!! Very minimal and only when you whack the throttle. They create a small dip in the curve. I tried the between the reeds and motor and between the carbs and reeds. No gain, just minimal losses.

I'd leave the cover off even in the summer. If you can't and go through a lot of mud, then cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all four clips. This will give you another 4hp....Just remember to go up a couple of sizes on the mains when the temps drop to -25 again.

Alright, your first problem is get rid of the air box lid or mod it...You can cut the last 1.5" off the end of it right behind the clips. This will give you another 4 hp....Next your too lean...W/ the modded lid or no lid, put some 330's in there, she'll take it and love it.. move your needles to the 4th clip, stock pilot, adjust the air screws to throttle response. Next, what size tire and what gearing are you running? You should be running stock gears for a piped shee in sand. I think your problem is in the lid and jetting though...Also check your compression. STock head at sea level and you should be around 128psi..Below 120 and I'd start thinking about rebuilding it.

Keeping the lid on is pointless for pipes. Your down about 4hp w/ the lid on...Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips. You can use a skill saw, takes 2 seconds. This will allow all the air the motor needs and will keep the mud off the filter. You'll notice a huge difference w/ throttle response w/o the lid or modded lid. You'll then need at least 280 mains for those temps and some 260-270's for 70-90 degrees out. 27.5 pilots and try raising the needle to the 4th clip after you've done everything else. Let me know how you make out.

You said you know that temp and elevation changes jetting, but you never said either one!!!!We need some numbers to help you out...for one, your air box lid is holding you back a lot. (4hp) Either remove it or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the over right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips. I use a skill saw, takes 2 seconds, just don't cut your fingers off...You said you checked your plugs at the end of a day...Your checking your plugs wrong. Run it wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear, pull the clutch in, kill it, coast to a stop, then check the plugs. Tan is lean, chocalate is perfect, black is rich. I'd mix your oil at 32:1. It'll be easier to read your plugs..You also might want to move the needle to the 4th clip and see how it pulls. It'll either pull harder or fall on its face. Let me know how you make out.

Fouled plug?

You can run any silencer that will fit the stock header. I know the ptr and fmf will fit, not sure about others, but if you can buy just the silencer for the stock header, then it'll fit the fmf headers. As for performance, there is a possibility that it'll gain. I went to Silver Lake and need spark arrestors on my shee, so I put the stock silencers on and my shee fell on its face. I'm also running a stroker, but still. I was very surprised. You'll also lose about 5-7 pounds of weight. :thumbsup:

Don't listen to us, we have no idea on the porting specs. Call Jeff, ask him. Depending on how far the port timing is advance and duration will affect your power curve along w/ the pipes. Get the pipe that compliments his porting and Kachowww!!!!! :thumbsup:

Your pipe choice will be decided on YOUR type of riding, not what everyone on here THINKS!!! I've tried 7 different pipes on my shee and they are all different. There is no such perfect pipe for everyone...Where one pipe will shine on top will lose on the bottom...A 2 into 1 pipe will out perform any other in VERY tight woods riding 1-3rd gear. The top end is equal to stock....The best low end twin pipe is the ptr mids..They pull harder off the bottom than any twin pipe out there w/ a very broad powerband at a very low rpm. These pipe are great in woods, sand pits, on/off throttle alot areas. They pull hard out of the corners w/ no light switch powerband. Very smooth power and helps the shee hook up a lot....The top end is a lot better than stock. Ptr highs, T5's,bills, dmc, fmf sst's, fmf gnarly's are other great options w/ good bottom, great mid-top pull. These are better for more open areas like fire roads, dunes, flat track, fast trail, or anywhere you can hold it wide open for a while...then you have pro circuits, cpi, shearer, rockets, trinity. These are more for drag, tt's, fast duning or any fast riding, but you'll be using the clutch quite a bit....Hope this helps some people out. Like I said before, there are some big differences between these pipes, so choose wisely.

For one, ditch the boost bottle. Worthless. At 25 degrees out, your lucky you didn't cook your motor w/ 260 mains...Your way too lean for those temps...That jetting would be good to about 50 at the coldest...Throw in some 300's if your gonna keep running below freezing and some 280's from 40-60 degrees out. Move your needle to the 5th clip for stock reeds and 4th clip for aftermarket reeds. Let us know how you make out. :cool:

Pipes are your #1 mod and will make a huge improvement..BUT be careful on your choice, as pipes vary quite a bit from one brand to another. Judging from your experience though, you could probably go w/ just about anything. As you ride your shee more and more, you'll get a better feel of where you want the power and be able to choose a better pipe...If I were you, I'd hit up ebay and find a good deal for a few bucks until you know what you want...Unless you can get your money back if you decide not to like the pipes later.

330 mains stock pilot needle 4th clip

Cutting the stock silencer will not make it any louder. If your worried about scraping them, then STOP FLIPPING! If thats not an option, then get aftermarket silencers. PTR mids are very short and barely pertrude past the rear fenders. They will also be louder.

The bill's pipes have more lower end power then the pc's. If not, then your jetting needs to be looked at. They have very good bottom end power right up through. JKJK described them perfectly. The ptr mids are unmatched for low end power in a twin pipe. Anyone who sais a banshee has no low end has obviously never ridden a shee w/ ptr mids. Its like a 250R, BUT w/ power!

Try this setup 162 mains 45 pilot needle 3rd clip You should be almost spot on, your revs can also be hanging because your idle is most likely set very high to keep the shee idling w/ such a rich mixture, but as the mixture builds in the bottom end, it idles down from being too rich. Also make sure your cables aren't kinked under the tank.

Your mains should be around a 270 at 60 degrees...At our temps, you should be around a 300. Your pilots should be either a 27.5 or 30....It should start up great w/ 40 degree temps and a 35 pilot, but will run shitty and start hard once its warmed up....Make sure you slides aren't switched from one carb to the other making them backwards. Cutaway should face the air box. You might be able to drop your needles tempararily until you get your new pilots. It won't help the starting problem, but will help come into the powerband better. A 25 pilot will be too small for those pipe especially your temperature right now. You will have a very hard time starting it.. Also make sure the carb w/ the choke has the right bowl...One carb bowl (choke side) has a brass tube in it. The other carb bowl doesn't. The choke carb needs the brass tube to work properly for the choke.