Banchetta

You talking about the idle adjustment???? Thats why I use a flashlight and look inside the intake and adjust them equally. I move them down until they bottom out, then move them back up 1/4 turn...Good way to sync them as well as a nice idle...

So what do you not like about the pc pipes then if you like the high revs????

fmfracing.com

They are both brass. One is flush mounted and the other sticks out a 1/2".

Like ogre said. If your looking for more power, then porting. If your looking for a more all around power curve, then get some Pt mids....

Adjust the floats.

Like 03LE said, get some color on them, once you do a wot test, then plugs WILL change color...you'll be surprised what happens at 1200 degrees!!! Right now, I'd say your too lean w/ those temps, better to start rich and work down. Throw some 310 or 320 in there and try it out. You want to read the tip of the plug (ground strap) As for the midrange, raise the needles to the 4th clip from the blunt end.

There is a guy that I ride w/ at Glamis once a year that has the same setup. His was doing the same thing....I don't know how he made out. He's a close friend of JTquad. Maybe pm him and he might know...this was last Feb....I'll be seeing him again next month.

Either you don't understand the difference or you don't know what you need.....You first said you wanted a set of pipes for the trails, which tells me that you need a lot of midrange w/ really good low end...a mid to top end pipe is worthless in the trails. Obviously you know that now since your pc pipes are dissappointing to you...they have no low end. For tight trails where in always in 1-4th gear, then go w/ the 2 into 1 exhaust. If you want the best low end pipe w/ twin exhaust then get the Pt mids from Duncan...they have incredible low end, awesome midrange pull and really good top end power. If your wallet can't afford them, then get the fmf gnarlies or sst's..they have decent low end, good midrange pull and decent top. Comparable to the pt mids, on midrange and top, but the mids pull better on the bottom. The T5's are no better in the trails then the pc pipes. They are both a high rev pipe..

You are most likely a little lean w/ the colder temps...the 290's will be great for 50-80 degree temps, but you will need to up them a couple of sizes for 20-40 temps. If you are planning on riding in colder temps than that, then go to 320's...your plugs are probably white because your reading the porcelain and not the ground strap (finger). If the plugs are new,then they will be harder to read, put a couple of hours on them or ride it for the day, and at the end of the day, do another plug test. Read the end of the plug. the outer circle should be black and as it comes onto the finger, the color should turn to brown at the corner of the finger and stay brown on the tip.

We'll be at pad 2

Another thing, pull the air cleaner out and look inside the intake to make sure one of the slides isn't sticking up or that you haven't put the slides in backwards, the cutaway should face the air box...common mistake.

Agreed, check that you haven't swapped the bowls, only one of the bowls will have a little jet in the bottom of the bowl...if it still starts hard after that, then you might want to try upping the pilots to a 27.5...as for the needles, I'd try upping them a clip also. 4th clip from the blunt end...your mains will most likely be too lean. For 60 degree F weather, I'd go up to 350 mains...Toomey likes the fuel.

Did you eliminate the tors?? Little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3 wire plug. Disconnect it, also check the clutch switch on the handlebars...follow it towards the gas tank to the next connection and disconnect that too..Those 34's might be waaayyy too big for your setup...you could very well lose some hp w/ those.

I helped JKJK jet his shee in Dumont a couple of years ago w/ pretty much the same mods as you. Thats what I ended up w/. The larger pilots were killing his throttle response slightly...he had no porting. Modded air box lid.

Depends on what your shee likes and how cold it is outside...I always find the fmf shees to like the .5 turn out around here, but when I went to Glamis I jetted a shee that liked to be 2.5 turns out, so just try fiddling w/ it. It'll affect your throttle response. Best way to do it , is to get it warmed up, put it in neutral, whack the throttle real quick to see how fast it response, adjust the air screw, repeat process.

It takes a full day to properly jet in a shee. Learn from trial and error. We can give starting points, but you still have to tweak it in...bringing it to a shop is worthless, I can probably get you alot closer than they can and I'm not even listening to it....do it yourself, we'll help you.

Compression won't affect jetting that much....W/ your settup, I'd go w/ 350 mains, needle 4th clip and stock pilots..

One of the very few I never rejetted either..so I'd say go w/ what midnite said. Thats where I'd start...try different size pilots to see if that is what it needs, then try raising the needles one clip at a time. He can probably get some of that low end back....CPI pipes don't have much for low end though...

Your pilots sounds close and maybe a size too lean...You might want to try a larger pilot and see what happens. I'd also go out this weekend and try different clip positions on the needles, I'd raise the needles by moving the clip towards the pointy end of the needle...as for the plugs, you want to read the "finger" or ground strap. New plugs won't work so well, put some ride time on them to get some color on them, then do a wot run. You want the outer circle to be black and the tip of the Finger to be chocalate brown. The transition of color should be on the bend of the finger or ground strap....

We are shipping our quads a week before in tractor trailer trucks and we all fly out. 5 hours of flying and 8 days of fun!!! If you want your shee shipped out, get a hold of JT....

The powervalves will give you better low end, the cubs will give you alot more hp and torque, but the bottom end isn't that great on them, you won't like them for the trails....you can go w/ a stroker, +4 timing, Noss head w/ 18cc domes (but you'll need race fuel) what about getting the power to the ground? Does it spin a lot?

He's probably running it richer for the first couple of tanks for breakin..A fresh rebuild w/ 24:1 will smoke a little especially if your just letting it idle or barely on the pipe. If you ride it around and burp it open here and there, it should clear up, if not, then you might have another problem...what color is the smoke? What does it smell like? Antifreeze? Tranny fluid? or just two-stroke smoke?

The toomey is more of a top end pipe, but not being there, your jetting can play a large effect also...Higher compression will make a huge difference. I would buy a noss head over milling the stock head. I wouldn't go over .025 on the stock head. I've seen others deto w/ .030....although a lot of others on here never had a problem....so.........your call. As for the jetting, keihin carbs have more overlap than mikunis....I'd think your mains should be very close, but eliminate that w/ a wide open test in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop and check the plugs...black is rich tan is lean and chocalate brown is perfect...next what size are your pilots. How does it start when cold? Warm? Will it idle? What does it do if you cruise at ONLY 1/4 throttle, try to maintain 1/4 throttle for as long as you can, does it rev clean or choke up?

Like 03le said, try both and decide. Jetting is trial and error. There is no text book on this, you'll see. Moving the needles on fmf shees respond a lot. It'll either like it and pull like hell, like you just put another set of pipes on, or it'll bog out and the powerband won't kick in..most fmf shees will like the 4th clip w/ aftermarket reeds and 5th clip w/ stock reeds......ps, clip position is from the blunt end..