Banchetta

Yea, I think he took my wording differently, what I meant was make sure the cylinders were NOT egg-shaped from wear and tear. No use of putting new rings if the cylinder is worn out of round...which will then have to be bored round again.

He was talking about mph not kph...The stock shee does about 72mph and w/ most pipes, they'll do around 85mph. They have 6 speed transmissions, which helps them be the fastest top speed quad out there. Stock, they are only 37hp, a set of pipes will boost them to around 50hp. For 800 us dollars, you can get cub cylinders and have almost 100hp... A 100hp shee will be side by side w/ your sled. Even my 4mil stroker stayed w/ a 900 Cat sled this fall on the hill climbs on dirt. Surprised the hell out of me. Especially when I own a Firecat F7 w/ a D&D900ss kit in it. But the shee only weighs 390lbs wet, if you shave some stock shit off where a sled weighs between 500-600lbs depending on year and model.

Take the stock ones, drill 2 holes, (1/4"), put 2 bolts w/ nuts through them. They'll last forever.

Depends on how much money you want to spend and whether or not you want the best suspension out there. Works are great for the money and are an improvement over stock. But I stepped it up to Ohlins and seen another difference over the works... TCS are also great shocks as well as AXIS... I would rate these shocks from best to worst w/ my experience. Axis TCS Ohlins Works Stock As for A-arms, same thing, do you want adjustable arms? Camber? Castor? How much money do you want to spend?

Basically the banshee is the baddest 2 stroke quad ever built..... :wink: Mods are unlimited. The deeper the pockets, the faster it'll go. Paul turner midrange pipes have the best low end twin pipe out there and goes on from there...there are a lot of choices and you have a lot of research. Reed spacers do nothing, boost bottle does nothing. +4 timing is a must. Don't touch the porting if you want low end. You can get a couple of years before a rering or rebuild w/ a good amount of riding.. Banshee parts are very cheap compared to sled parts. You can rebuild the motor w/ pistons, rings, boring, gaskets for under $250. You can ride all day on 5 gallons of gas or less depending on open areas or woods riding. Reliability doesn't change much from stock to modded..Its all in the maintenance, jetting, and care just like a sled. I'm selling my shee w/ a +4 mil stroker if your interested. 4000.00. Just though I'd throw that in... :biggrin:

BTW, we're heading out the 12th-21st to Glamis. I'll be flying into San Diego. You guys should come visit us. We'll have 2 tractor trailers, 8 or more rvs and about 75 guys at Pad 2. We're the East coast group, most Glamis locals know of us. Maybe we'll meet up. :thumbsup:

Well you are in San Diego, so I'm guessing your checking this at sea level?? Higher elevations will make your compression lower...2 years is not much and you should get more than that...You are running a good K&N w/ adaptor kit and outerwear right? The stock flange will let sand get by and wear your rings. Another thing is make sure you warm the shee up slowly. Revving the hell out of it on a cold motor will wear them faster as well especially w/ forged pistons...Also what are you running for oil? Try to stay at 32:1 ratio w/ a good oil. Some people like to run 50:1 or 80:1, thats just insane..I'm old school and got 5 years on my last build and only lost 3psi. Oil can only help. I also believe in the cast pistons like stock or pro-x. They warm up and expand at the same rate as the cylinder where forged pistons like wiesco will heat up and expand faster than the cylinder. There is a lot of controversy on this subject, so I'm just giving my experiences over the years. For longevity, go cast. If your at sea level, then maybe get another tester from someone and double check your numbers. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open on testing and don't stop kicking until the needle stops moving.

See thats where everyone is wrong!!! The boost bottle does do something. I have dynoed my shee numerous time to find what mod works and what mod doesn't work. The boost bottle will actually lose hp right before the powerband kicks in, therefore creating a dip in the powercurve right before the powerband starts to stretch out. (because they just do that). So when everyone sais they don't do anything, then they are wrong, because it does do something. It.....well.....loses hp. :cool:

Ahhhh, wheelies. :thumbsup: Banshee is a little more difficult, then the 4-pokers, but hell thats what I learned on....Mods that help: -2 swingarm makes wheelies alot easier since they give you a lot more traction, consistent and predictable hookup as well as move the balance of the shee further back...You won't have to lift the front end as high to find the balance point... Great mod for any banshee w/ knobbie tires. Next mods will be to gear it up. The banshee has a violent power hit unless your running midrange pipes. Gear it up w/ a 15 tooth front sprocket, it'll help smoothen that power out. Good jetting also helps smoothen the power out so its not so violent... Ok so thats shee mods, now for you. If you can learn to do a 5mph wheelie, then you can wheelie anything at any speed. The faster you wheelie the easier it is to wheelie since the power isn't so violent. I learned doing 4th gear wheelies and worked my way down. Slower wheelies are harder to do. When you are in a wheelie, just remember you only want to do small increments of the throttle. Whacking the throttle is ONLY necessary to get the front end up, once your there, you just want to feather the throttle lightly to maintain the wheelie. You get good enough and you will be abe to listen to the powerband sing at one rpm for miles. Just remember, lean back as far as possible, most people who try to wheelie the first time are up over the gas tank. They are not helping the shee at all. Lean back, you further your back, the less the shee has to come up. Your balance point will be 10:00 instead of 11:00. Good luck, there is no describing the balance point, It just take a lot of practice. I can ride wheelies forever and some people are amazed, but it wasn't always that easy. I bent a few a-arms and crashed hard quite a few times to learn, but once you got it, your golden. Now I ride wheelies on everything I ride. Streetbikes, dirtbikes,atv, snowmobiles, (shit, my diesel truck if I could get the front end up high enough) lol

He is spot on....I ran just ptr mids and high compression head for 5 years and never lost a local race in a dragrace in 500'. I was beating 370R's, 450R, other shees even w/ porting...The low-mid pipes emphasize the power at lower rpms. You'll just have to learn to short shift and use the torque instead of revving the hell out of it to get power. Where you lose on one end, you'll gain on the other...you can't beat low end pipes out of the hole. :thumbsup: Ps: how did the a-arms fare on that crash??

If you want more low end, then your in for it.....I made the mistake of having a local builder do my shee up and same thing. I've spent over 1200 bucks in intake mods and trying different pipes to get it back...You can get some back, but not like what you'll want. The Paramid reed cages worked very well for more bottom end w/ no top end loss. I also gained a lot of bottom end w/ larger carbs..5hp on the bottom and 2hp on top. Although I am running a stroker. Dave at dlnoss really hooked me up though..He made me some domes that gave my back some low end and took the dip out of my power curve. Give him a shout. Best things that helped me: Paramid reed cages Heads w/ special domes Larger carbs The taper of the needles also made some nice changes as well.

I agree, the cable is the culprit. Check where the cable goes into the thumb throttle, check where the cable goes from 2 into 1, and check the carb tops (if the tors is eliminated). A lot of times the cable isn't straight by one of these connections causing it to pull on the cable a litttle.

At sea level, you should be up around 125-128psi..no doubt your ready for a rering, or rebuild if the cylinders are egg-shaped. Buying a head will increase your compression, but don't use that to solve your problem at hand...low compression is from worn rings or scarred cylinders. Where your cylinders are =, that is a very good sign meaning your jetting is not a culprit nor you have any air leaks. Most likely you just have normal wear of the rings...Thin rings will tend to break and pieces will scar the cylinders and get into the crank. Better to change them now and overhaul the shee. It'll be cheaper now and not ruin a day of riding..You WILL beat your boy after that. No doubt. Especially if you add a head as well as overhaul.

Ebay, I see them on there every so often. They've been going for around $300 bucks and most of them look in decent shape. I have a set of spark arrestors that I bought when I went to Silver Lake dunes. Only used them that weekend and have been sitting in my garage ever since. They just clamp onto the silencer and are about 4-5" long. I paid 150 bucks for them, but I'd let them go for $50. + shipping. I'll never have use for them again.

I'm not one to see how much life I can get on a set of rings. I ran my shee 5 years before I did a rebuild. I had 165 psi to start and had 162 psi when I rebuilt.....Could I have gone 5 more years before another rebuild. Absolutely. But its cheaper to change rings for a merely 30-50 bucks ( as long as the cylinder isn't egg-shaped) then to wait for a ring to break because it wore too thin, and then you'll be spending 200-300 bucks to buy pistons, rings, boring, etc. thats as long as you don't hurt the crank in the process....Most broken rings will scar a cylinder to the point where it needs .020 taken out instead of .010 to clean up the scars. So instead of getting 10 bores out of a set of sleeves, you only get 5...In the long run, your better off to stay on top of the game and it'll save you money as well as not ruin a day of riding. He is at sea level, so he should see 128 psi w/ a stock head...Below 120psi and he is over 8 psi down. To me, that means that motor hasn't been rebuilt or overhauled in a LONG time...either that, the jetting is off, or someone thinks 80:1 oil ratio is plenty of oil,(not to cause a pissing match), or someone likes to rev a cold motor w/ forged pistons. But why not replace the rings and get another 10psi? Most people on here spend 200 bucks on a set of heads to gain 30 psi... But, you are right, he doen't NEED it, but I wouldn't think twice, I'd pull it apart...It only takes 4 hours, less than 50 bucks, and he will see a difference in performance w/ just the seat of the pants feel. That is just w/ 10 psi, now if he is down to 110psi. The difference will be unbelievable. My first shee had 105psi in one cylinder and 98psi in the other. I couldn't take a 250R on pavement in 500' w/ fatty pipes....Rebuilt it, and pulled the 250R by 5 bike lengths. Compression is key to a banshee. (And most motors) Not to mention, it'll start up so much better.

Yup, same thing. I was running 280 mains on the ptr mids w/ no other mods. Hit the throttle, just as the pipe came on hard, it died like someone hit the kill switch. If I let off quick enough, it would actually catch back on and idle, try it again and same thing. I didn't think it was the mains either at first. I pulled my lines off the carbs to make sure there was fuel, checked the floats, finally just went to 300 mains and walla!! Pulled like a train...The 300's were actually my perfect jet size as well. Go figure. Funny thing is your the only other shee I've heard to do that.

110 is about right on a new set of pistons. Once you run a few tanks of gas and break it in, you'll be between 120-128 depending on elevation...let us know what you find.

First thing I'd do is get a second guage to verify those numbers. I would be scared to run 175psi w/ pumped gas. Most likely your compression will be even higher once you put about 4-8 hours on the machine. It usually goes up another 10-15psi on breakin. I agree w/ Dave, your squish is more than normal, but yet you have more compression. I'd call Jeff and have him send you some 22cc domes and go from there. I know Dave/dlnoss is very knowledgeable on this and helped me a great deal on my stroker. (thanks again dave :thumbsup: ) If anyone can help you it'll be him, but since you got the head off Jeff, I'd see if he'll hook you up and try some different domes.

Toomey's really like the fuel, we did a bunch of jetting in Glamis a couple of years ago w/ JKJK's shee. He just had T5's and shaved head...Thats what we ended up w/. Most other pipes are between 260 and 300.

Go up about 3-4 sizes on the mains and your shee will rip...Your running too lean, as soon as you hit it and the powerband kicks in, your shee is pulling the fuel so quick that it empties the gooseneck between the main and the venturi of the carb. Your main isn't large enough to supply the sudden rush of fuel...Certain pipes and engine combos will do that even if they are only 1-2 sizes too lean..My ptr mids did that, went up 2 sizes and perfect...

You really should get a compression guage. They cost around 30-50 bucks at the auto parts stores. If your compression is lower than 120psi w/ a stock head, then you will need a rebuild. Once you have one, you'll use it quite often..While your at it, check to make sure the equalizer tube between the 2 carbs is still there. A lot of people work on carbs and lose it w/o realizing it.. Its about 1/4"x2"long and goes between the carbs. W/o it, it'll start hard and run like shit.

Stock sizes are 210-220 depending on year..You should be running a 270 main during the summer w/o the air box lid or mod the lid...I cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid on all the shees I work on right behind the clips so you still have all four clips....W/ the lid on, you'll have a loss of bottom end as well as top end..the snorkel will really kill it..Do you have a K&N? If not, get one. Next, you want to up the pilot to a 27.5 or 30...If you go to the 27.5, then raise the needle to the 4th clip from the blunt end, if you use the 30 pilot, then keep the needle in the 3rd groove. Adjust the air screw to throttle response. As for winter, you'll be running around a 300-310 mains at 20 degrees

First off, DON'T every listen to your dealer again. Restrict the air box!!!!!! :laugh: Ditch the cover or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid. This will give you another 4hp. Next, since you already made numerous runs on it w/o blowing it up (knock on wood). Run it for 5-10 seconds wide open in 6th gear, pull the clutch in, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs, look at the ground strap. Light tan is too lean, chocalate is perfect, black is rich.

The fatty's are more of a mid to topend pipe where the gnarlies are better for low end to mid power..For your type of riding. Go w/ the gnarlies, hands down...If you can afford them, get the PTR mids, they have more bottom end w/ the same top end as the fatties.

Due to the extra gas that runs into the motor after you lay it over..Just hold the throttle wide open and kick it over. It should start in a few kicks...It'll help clean out the extra fuel in the cylinders and start better.