badbanshee01

Hello, I've ran into this problem as well and used an old piece of rad. hose as a shim, hasn't burnt through that hose in over 2 years so it holds up. It probably transfers some heat to the coolant though, never thought about that.

I don't know why the thing is so tuff! I can see where you could use the c-clamp to put a steady pressure on it, but when the seal broke it caught on the metal on the side of the bore and started to peel away at the outside of the seal. Something just doesn't seem right. I may just take it down to the local machine shop and have them do it, since they have presses and everything. Also, should the socket be pushing around the outside of the seal?Thanks for the advice

Well, where should I start. I tore apart my water pump, which I now know I didn't have to, and now I can't put the damn thing back together. I took the old seal and bearing out for the water pump and I just wrecked the new 20 dollar seal trying to hammer it in there with a socket. Is there a trick or something? I don't even think lube would help. I haven't even got to the bearing yet, which could be worse yet. So, how the hell do you get that in there? Not very happy about a 20 dollar seal getting wrecked in 5 minutes. All comments appreciated.

Hi, After riding the banshee pretty hard last night I came to a stop and put my ear down by the water pump area, by the kickstarter kinda. I heard this rattling sound, like a loose bearing or something. Sounded exactly like the rattling kickstarter, but that isn't the problem. I'm afraid it may be the water pump and it has been losing a tad bit more coolant than normal during operation from the overflow. I was wondering what you guys think it is and how big of a job it is. Thanks

I would keep your old quad, it's always worth it to hold on to those little things. we have a old honda fourtrax 70 that is bullet proof as hell. it starts on the first pull every time.

A shorter silencer will give you more low end, at least that is what the magazine says.

T-5's are a good are all around pipe but so are fmf fatties and they are much cheaper also, but not as good as quality.

You DO have to have several heat up and cool down sessions if you have a forged piston, like a wesico. Wesico itself tells you to heat your bike up and let it cool down, increasing throttle amounts steadely each time you do it. This break-in proccess is for the piston only, it makes it stronger. That is the only reason you do the cycles, to break in the piston. If you ever got a Wesico piston, the instructions that came with it say this right on it!!!!! That motoman guy is weird, knocking on all the factory break in recomendations with no freckin' proof. Just my .02$

try www.worldofpowersports.com and look under their blowaparts, they have pretty much everything.

I had to buy a longer bolt for mine, the stocker wasn't long enough to go through all the rubber bushings.

I just cut a old piece of radiator hose in half and slid it over the hose on the bike, so it will have to burn through that first to get to the hose with fluid in it.

check your compression before you tear into your engine. It may be time for a top end rebuild since it's a 2001

With my mods in my sig., I live in michigan about 500 ft. and I have 320 mains, stock pilots, needle on 4th clip at about 30 degree temps. Probally go to 310's in the summer.

You can adjust the lrd's for more low or bottom end, but I have heard that the joints leak where the pipe expands

I picked my 2001 up for 2900 and it was in really nice shape