Banchetta

I always jetted to my plugs and when I went to the dyno, my jetting was spot on w/ the most hp..I tried richer and leaner and lost hp...although that was w/ 93 octane. Plugs look totally different w/ 114 octane. Either way, exhaust pipes are designed for max hp at 1200 degrees..if your too lean, then you'll be hitting temps a lot higher and the hp will suffer as your coming off the tuning of the pipe.

I'd have to say, Wallrat narrowed it right down. The larger tire, smaller rims will also absorb the small bumps in the dunes better.

Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips...so you still have all four clips. This will give the shee all it needs for air, even w/ a stroker...the full lid will hold you back even on throttle response.

This is the stock carbs vs the 35's on my stroker. Notice the torque before the powerband and after.....this was when I was running 158psi w/ the stock head rechambered. I've changed my compression to 185psi and the richer needles (DEJ) made a huge difference. I have some EEJ needles that I haven't tried yet...I'll rerun my shee on the dyno after the new year....oh ya, the pyramid valves are the BALLS!!!!

Wallrat, can you post the graph up? I'd like to see the curve especially where your running such low compression and the single carb.

Strokers don't put out that much hp. The stroker is for more torque, not hp. Even though his torque numbers are low.

You can modify the lid also. Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid towards the back right behind the clips so you still have all four clips to hold the cover on....this will give your shee all the air it needs.

I would still try some stock 25 pilots as well...there still could be more!!!! There is only one combination that'll outpull all......One day of jetting is worth years of riding after...

55hp w/ 36 ft/lbs of torque....I think the single carb and single intake will hold you back at least 7hp. Then of course, your only running 140psi...Strokers don't liike low compression.. how is your bottom end??

Just for everyones input. I've ran the stock box w/ my 4 mil stroker on the dyno w/ the single K&N...After pulling everything apart to rejet several time, I decided to do a run w/o the air box for comparison.....I got the same EXACT numbers from bottom to top...so the single filter doesn't hold back anything...for those that wonder if the single or twins flow better. Neither one flows any better than the other....your choices should not be for performance. Besides some straight pods will rub against certain pipes and melt. So choose wisely. I'd run a modded lid (cut the last 1.5" off the end) for trails and run w/o a lid for sand...(only less than 1/2hp between a modded lid and w/o the lid)

You will lose a little peak power w/ the single, so if you can handle that, then no problem...As for the size of the carb though, you really have to ask Eric...I've done a lot of dynoing w/ 5 different size carbs on my stroker. The bigger the better, BUT!!!! when I did my stock shee w/ just Pt mids and heads, the stock carbs pulled the best hp....even ported stock carbs lost 2hp across the whole curve...I'm sure a mild porting would probably like the 28's, and a drag port would like even bigger carbs, but your guess is as good as mine..w/ my research, you could gain very little and lose a lot if you don't have the right size. I've also noticed that too large of a carb will make jetting extremely hard to dial in since your over carbed and don't have enough air flow (velocity) going through the carb to make it work efficiently....Eric Gorr is very reputable and I'm sure he can take out a lot of the guess work for his porting..

I absolutely love the pt pipes, BUT I require a lot of low end. I put a 4 mil stroker in my shee and noticed that the Pt pipes hold back top end power w/ the stroker. I've got the Pt mids and the Pt high revs...JKJK has tried the Pt high revs and the T5's on his stroker and noticed gains all the way through, but this is on a stroker....Personally if you don't care about bottom end, then eliminate the Pt pipes off the list...If you want all out top end power, then get the shearers. Hands down. They pull further than the T5's..

I'd go w/ 350 mains, stock pilot, needle 4th clip

Try putting the clip on 4th from the blunt end......trial and error..and like 03LB said, your mains may be a little lean. Do a wot run and check the mains..

Ogre has a good question...Where exactly are you looking for more power? Are you happy w/ the top end you have now? Bottom end??

Run the shee wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop and check your plugs. That'll let you know how your mains are....Pilots and needles are mostly trial and error..try different clip positions on the needles and see which one pulls the hardest..As for the pilots, how well does it start?

When it comes to throttle response, there is a certain combo that'll work and make your shee respond a lot better. Some shees will like a richer pilot than others which will affect the needles. The pilot circuit also adds more fuel to the needle circuit and mains since they flow at all throttle positions...so you might find that w/ a leaner pilot, that your needles will like to be richer...so in turn you have to find the right combo of needle height and pilot size along w/ air screw adjustment...these all affect throttle response..keep us informed.

I'd ask eric gorr, since he ported it and will know exactly what size carb will work best for your setup..plain and simple, otherwise you'll be spending hundreds of dollars in carbs and still won't have All the hp you should have..

I agree w/ everyone else. Pipes just move the power curve. You will gain more peak high rev hp, but you will lose bottom end w/ the pc pipes...I couldn't tell you about the lrds, one of the very few pipes I haven't tried...get some cool heads, advance the timing +4, porting, etc...you'll be surprised how much more you can get. Your at the tip of the iceburg

I'd go for the 290's, but do a wot run in 6th gear and check your plugs.

Well, you did buy a high rev pipe, not a low end or midrange pipe....you might be able to get some of the low end back by raising the needles like reded suggested. Try the 4th clip from the blunt end, if that helps then try the 5th clip....it'll either like it or hate it....2 turns out on the air screw is alot. Is that what your shee likes?? Have you tried .5 turn out on the air screws? What size are your mains??

The pilots won't control sputtering at wot...but if your the type to look for more, then try a set of 30's. It'll either like it or hate it. You've already seen the gains going from the 25's to the 27.5's, so you know what to look and feel for...As for the mains. I'd try the 360's just to eliminate the sputtering problem if that is what it is..If it doesn't solve the problem, then I'd start looking into electrical...I'd also do a plug test at wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds and pull the plugs. See if your rich or lean...As for the needles, those are just trial and error. I'd try the 5th clip and see what happens. The needles (depending on pipes) can make substantial gains on the low end and pull...your shee will either like it or hate, you WILL feel the difference. Find the sweet spot. If your shee doesn't like the 5th clip then try the 3rd....Modifications are great, but if your jetting suffers, then you won't gain as much as you should. Play around w/ it, you'll see, if you run into problems, we are here!!!!

you might find that the shee will start right up w/ a larger pilot, but once the motor is warmed up, it'll tend to flood out and you'll be revving it up all the time to clean it out. Your throttle response will start to get sluggish also.

I think you'll find that the pilots will be lower than a 32.5 and that the needles will like to be a lot richer...I'd go back to the 30's or less...