cam2

if you have a shop nearby call them and see if they have it in stock. but, by all means necessary make sure you use the "correct one" and "NOT" the claw type puller. i warned again a while back on here and he went ahead and used the claw type puller anyway, so now he has to replace his flywheel.

that's great. there are some guys here that weigh damn near as much as that, probably some a little more.

yep, so am i. plus i have a cold adult beverage in front of me...........gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp............aaaaaaaahhhhhhh. what a good way to waste time.

yeah, what they said. what type of tires are you running and on what type of terrain? with the extra power you're probably spinning the tires so quickly that you're not getting good traction, so it will seem as though it's not as fast. a gearing change may be in order, so that you can stretch each gear out a little. once everything is dialed in you should be much faster.

what are the #'s? do the carbs look identical?

did you call RS? if you have everything installed correctely then i would start replacing the new parts one at a time with known good stock parts. of course, that's if you have access to these parts; spare parts, parts off another bike, etc, etc. is the flywheel new? was it dropped or beat on?

look on the sides of the carbs and compare the #'s to the #'s provided in the link. i'm not familiar with PJ's, but on the PWK's the #'s are located on the right side of the carb body just above the bowl. PJ 34MM "67R" PJ 38MM "R39" "to me it looks like 41mm on one side but like 57 on the other? and to be a 34 it sez 59?" with the measurements you have and if the "67R" matches on the carbs then i would feel confident in beliveing that they are 34's. a mm here or there isn't going make much of difference if any. the carb bodies are cast not billet so the tolerances won't be as tight.

i had a trinity 420 big bore kit with their stage IV porting. stock stroke crank, 70mm big bore sleeves and pistons. i ran both setups with dual 35mm carbs, VF3's, and small bore in-frame shearers. the 420 BB was a good setup, it came on sooner and pulled hard. but, the 421 cub hits more violently in the mid range and pulls much harder on top. the power is in the cubs favor, even a stock stroke 68mm bore cub because of the port layout. you can get OEM jugs ported to turn good numbers, but it will cost you a bunch of money to have a good builder to do it. it will cost a lot more than the average port job. of course over all setup is key in a drag race.

keep in mind that you'll be able to sell your stock jugs and cank in order to recoup some money. not a great deal, but somethings better than nothing. yeah, those T6's won't be much better than the FMF's on a cub. but, there's nothing wrong with running them until you can afford to get what you want.

i think it would run good with the 33's. you could run the pipes you have now but you will gain more power with CPI's or shearer's. is your crank trued and welded? if so, then yeah it would be a bolt-on job. to have your crank T&W'ed would be around $65, but if you have to split the cases to have that done then you could spend a little more for a +4mil crank. you can get a +4mil crank for a little over $400. you may be able to find a good deal on a used one. i understand if you don't want to spend the extra cash for the +4mil, you have to stop the bleeding at some point. i was in your shoes last year. although i had my stock crank T&W'ed when i had my stock jugs ported i decided to go with the +4mil 421 cub. i already had 35mm PWK's and in-frame shearer's.

it's possible that the ones with the AB and RD prefixes are off brand replacements. i couldn't find a clear picture or much info on "RD PRECISION MAIN JETS". but, i'll assume the RD prefix is most likely the "RD PRECISION MAIN JETS". it seems that they have something to do with the EBC brake company. here's a link: http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/13/314/3882857

I assume it ran fine before you did this. did you set the gap between the pickup tabs on the flywheel and the pickup coil? somewhere between .015 to .020. i don't think +2 advance would cause a major issue. but, running timing advance along with high compression on low octane fuel will cause you to detonate and run hot. what compression and octane are you running? what other things have you done to the engine lately? more info may help.

the most accurate temp reading you will get is by putting a gauge in-line with the main large hose that comes out of the front of the head to the top right side of the radiator (not the small vent hose ontop of the head). the coolant that comes out of the main line from the front of the head is the coolant that was just cycled through the engine so it would be the hottest. you want to know how hot the coolant is coming out of the engine not what's going in from the bottom of the radiator. installation instructions will tell you how to install them. you install the warp drive in the main line that comes out of the front of the head. you determine where you want it so that you can see it then you cut the hose then install the temp gauge with hose clamps. put coolant back in the system and you'll be good to go. just as long as there's no leaks.

congrats on the 1st place trophy.

26mm mikuni.