Toybreaker

Guess not? Ok.... Anyone interested in a build thread for the transmission on here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whenever I have suggested meeting at a police barracks/station and the seller does not agree I walk. Not willing to meet at a police station means you are shady.....

yes the warrior wheels will fit

Payment Plan is a stand up seller, I am sure he is negotiable and if you can't come to an amicable agreement go to that website and buy them.

find some fuel safe dye and make it part of the routine for mixing your gas.....

1) There are rebuild kits for the kicker.... quick fixes on that do not last. 2) Bleed the rear brake (replace all the fluid, completely) think about a steel braided line too. 3) Normal, trim the fender back a bit from the pipe to stop any more damage to the fenders. 4) smaller tires make it easier to accelerate. you can put your wifes warrior wheels on the shee, take it for a ride and see how much worse the performance is....

still have that crank?

Dude, you have an air leak... how many times are you going to open a thread about the same thing. running with the choke on means it needs more fuel..... Insert other media Do a leak down test, find the leak, fix the leak, do a plug chop, report back

Quadzilla is a better chassis for this swap. Seen a lot of different versions, Raptor, Honda, suzuki, banshee.... Turbo busa in the zilla was my favorite.... But a built 4mm or 7mm will out perform the R1. 300 lbs lighter and 80-110 hp on pump gas. Properly built banshee engine will last for YEARS. My wifes 96 is still on the 64.25mm bore from 1998. Runs mint!

Sully? what were you running on yours?

carb issue for sure, check the tube between the carbs is not cracked and seated properly. If that is it, are the slides in the correct carb? swapped side to side is BAD have you changed the pilot to a 27.5? if not, do that, and while you have the carbs off put them in a can of carb dip overnight. Pull them and clean every orifice with brake cleaner and blow out everything with compressed air. I would run torch tip cleaners through main and pilot jets, just as an SOP thing for when I go through carbs... Once assembled and back on the bike LIGHTLY seat the air screws, then turn them out 1.5 turns as a baseline. eyeball the "sync" before you assemble the rest of the intake, tank, fuel lines and again at this point I would remove the petcock and flush out the tank, clean the screen filter on the petcock and put it back together.... new fuel lines and filter(s) drop tank on, prime fuel system and fire it up to see if it is fixed.... It idles and revs out good without load? Final assemble and take it for a putt....

Change one thing at a time.... write down any changes corresponding to the "fix" sometimes 1 thing is fucky, most times it is multiple things causing the hard start/rough running/stall.... Keep It Simple Stupid KISS principle for troubleshooting and repairs...

buy new boots, a vacuum leak will pop your pistons.

Ok Friend's son-in-law dumped his F450 in the friends yard. Needs the trans rebuilt. Cab and chassis, longer than long bed, single cab. v-10 ZF-6 trans.... the output shaft into the transfer case has no splines left. Parts to "rebuild" it are $400 give or take. anyone here ever gotten into one of these HD transmissions? Done muncie, saginaw, c4, turbo 350, whatever a 96 S-10 has for a 5 speed and 4R70W's....

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