Banchetta

Agreed, your mains are WAY too small. Go up 3 sizes on the mains and try that. Most likely your plugs are very light. Give her some fuel. You might have to go up even more.

330-350 main stock pilot needle 4th clip .5 turn out or more for the air screw. Adjust it for throttle response

So. California, just below San Diego. We're going out for 9 days.

I'll be there w/ the East coast crew!!! Just loaded up my quad yesterday. 8 days and counting.

Well, there are about 45+ people including me going out from the 12-21st. We'll be on Pad 2. Make sure you guys come out and visit. You won't miss the 2 tractor trailers and about 8 or more rv's. I'm sure there is a topic in here about the East coast ride to Glamis.

I've tried the Pt high revs and mids on my 4 mil stroker w/ no real differences, I just tried a set of shearers this past week in Glamis...The shearers gave me a broader power at a higher rpms....low end wasn't as great, but mid to top broadened alot and pulled a lot harder w/ a really smooth power delivery....So w/ my experience, the Pt's are great for stock stroke, but I feel they hold back the strokers...JKJK also has a 4mil and feels the same.....Both of our shees are ported for low end and mx..

A stumbling bogg, like its spitting and sputtering??? That means its too rich...If it just hesitates before powerband, then its lean.....From what your saying w/ the air screw, I'd go up at least one size on the pilot and go from there...It should idle. Does it start hard? Cold? Warm? A lean pilot will require the choke all the time. A rich pilot will start in cold weather w/o the choke and idle great when the motor is cold, but won't idle once the motor is warmed up...I'd start there...

If you want to beat a piped 450R, then you better plan on getting a 4mil or 7mil stroker. I own both and race both...I raced other 4mil shees in Glamis this past week, the 450R is right behind them. They are stock w/ over 50hp...that is what a piped shee w/ pipes, timing and filter is.......The 450R's are lighter, more torque, and don't spin!!! If your buddy's 450R is jetted right and has the cam mod, then you'll have your hands full. A -2 swingarm will help out w/ the traction. Gear it up to a 15/41.

Carbs only compliment porting....Depending on the porting, this will give you the size carb you need...My stroker loves the larger carbs bottom to top, but JKJK's shee didn't like 33's and he has a 4mil stroker as well, so go figure....Porting matters.

Disconnect the wire going from the clutch handle towards the gas tank?? Also, does it rev out clean once the powerband kicks in now? Is it bogging just before powerband or from powerband and on? What happens if you just hold it wide open for 5 seconds? Does it clean out?

The higher the gears the easier the wheelies. It kills that quick snap and broadens the speed in one gear...I run a 16/42 gear w/ the midrange pipes and 15/41 w/ the high rev pipes...this is for dirt or sand. Run a -2 swingarm for the dirt. Traction is terrible w/ the stock swingarm on dirt..handling is greatly improved as well.

For one, those carbs are too big for PT mids w/ no porting. I have dynoes to prove it...this will make jetting even harder....But to help you out a little. You jetting should be around a 162 main, 42 pilot, needle 2 nd clip from the blunt end...as for the fuel in the lower end...I'd check your reeds and make sure your lower end isn't full as well, most likely it is....If so, then you have to pull the motor and drain it. Either that or pull the cylinders and suck it out w/ a vacuum....

Problem is obviously the cable if the slides go down w/o the cable...just replace it....why chance using a junk cable and having the throttle stick wide open....this is a no brainer!!!

Do those carbs have separate chokes or do they have a choke tube between them like the stockers? Also when you disconnected the tors, did you disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust? disconnect the wire going from the clutch towards the gas tank? Make sure both of them are disconnected.

Lower the clip, find the sweet spot....adjust the mains to the plugs ONLY. The needles will affect Full throttle on the initial hit, but once pinned it won't. Like First Banshee said, adjust the air screws to throttle response and make sure the carbs are synced (slides are the same).

If they got wet, then just make sure they get dried out...A wet filter will not allow enough air and will make it run rich and not rev out...Being winter, the filter might be frozen??

Nice pipes, more of a high rev then torque, unless you got the fmf gnarlies...those will have more torque...they are pretty comparable to toomeys when both are jetted right.

Try disconnecting the tors, little black box above the left exhaust...3 wire plug. Unplug it. Next, follow the wire going from the clutch lever towards the gas tank. You'll find another plug, Disconnect it...this is just a stock safety setup on the shee. You don't need it, and it does fail and cause scenerios like the one you have. If this doesn't clear it up, then go down 2 sizes on the mains...

Top end is a lot better than stock, like said before, not as peaky as others.....I've ran them for 5 years and loved them....Extremely smooth, predicatable power, instant throttle response. I'm running them now w/ a 4mil stroker and trying other pipes to compare how they do on the strokers...as for stock porting, I would take them over any other pipe for all around riding. For fast wide open areas, you can gain more w/ other high revs..My top end on my stock jugs was 88mph w/ a 16/42 gearing...the midrange pipes can pull a taller gear and still have more bottom end pull while still holding a respectable top end. Its like ridng a 250R, but w/ power.

Your cable could be snagging in the 2 into 1 piece in the cable...make sure the cable in a straight line...between the carbs and the junction....it also sounds to me that the slides are in backwards. Cutaway in the slides face the air box...pull the filter and double check.

If it starts up great and idles nice, then leave the pilot...try raising the needles, that'll help w/ that hesitation in the midrange.....as for the mains, start rich and work down.....if your too lean and do a plug test, you could melt a piston if your too lean....not worth it...start rich......if your shee will run the 160 cleanly, then do a plug test in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, pull over, pull the plugs and read them....you want a chocalate brown color on the tip...new plugs are harder to read, so get some run time on them w/ some color.

Thats exactly what I'm saying.....just pray the powerband kicks in....thats pc for you. NO LOW END.

This is advise coming from a guy who couldn't even decide on a pipe not more than a couple of months ago.......

The hill climbs that you do are not the same as the sand pit hill climbs...we are only climbing 100' hills or less w/ only 30' of runway, the pc pipes are useless in that short of a distance, they will just blaze the tires and go nowhere. The pt's will pull hard off the line and continue to climb up the hill, increasing speed, where the pc pipes will slow down as the climb since the peak was already there from the start w/ no more to climb to..... For large hills like the dunes, or ski slopes where you have plenty of take off and let momentum carry you over, the pc's will be fine and will work great, but sand pits are just too on/off throttle especially when the whole hill is washed out. Your not just in it for momentum, you have to throttle on/off all the way up hitting jumps up hill, then the wall at the top....so he can enjoy the pt's in the sand pits w/ a great advantage of LOW end power, then enjoy them even more in the trails, where the pc pipes really suck....or you can be like others and just clutch the hell out of it.