Banchetta

Ditto, And after all the bullshit they put the shee guys though over the years, they now have it on the yfz...

35's. No doubt. 4 mils like to breath. The larger the carb, the better they go.

For tight trails, I'd run the PT Mids hands down, but the fmf gnarlys would be my next choice..then fattys and T5's...Depends on the type of trails. Mids and Gnarlys for technical riding. Fattys and T5's for more open trail riding..

Couple of things. Try new plugs. Also, make sure the choke tube between the carbs is still there. Thats where I'd start.

Yes, there is a brass screw on the side of both carbs, make sure you keep both carbs the same and make sure the carbs are cleaned w/ compressed air through the ports. After your done, make sure the carbs are synced. This will make a big difference in throttle response and idle.

They are both comparable pipes. The shee I jetted w/ Bills pipes came in smooth and early and revved nicely as well. I really liked them powerwise for all around. The fattys are a nice pipe as well. Both jetted correctly will give you the same pull. I'd say its personal preference for sound and finish.

Not sure on your setup, but I know the 4 mils w/ stock jugs like 162-172 mains, 48 pilots. Most cub cylinders like 148-155 mains, 45 pilots. So your guess is as good as mine.

Single carb on the 4 mil will hold you back. Get a second 35pwk and you'll see huge gains. The 4mil likes to breath...I'd start w/162 mains, 48 pilot, dej needle 3rd clip..

Sounds to me like the mains are plugged. You might have a grain of sand or slime in the jet. Blow it out and you'll be fine. I'd still step up the main though for the k&n.

I run at sea level, 70 degrees. I ran this setup in Glamis and in Saco, Maine. This was w/ the pt mids. I later went to the shearer pipes and ended up w/ 172's...JKJK has a 4mil w/ 28 pwk w/ T5's. He was also running 162's...We both jetted our shees individualy and shared info later. Lean motors will rev, but not pull. Rich motors will drop out of powerband and bog like the choke is on..Properly jetted shees will pull harder than lean jetting..

Its a 3-wire plug by the front left exhaust pipe. Unplug it. Its supposed to act like a rev limiter in case your throttle sticks open..They fail all the time and cause the motor to act like a rev limiter. I've also seen them cut off the spark 100%..I've seen shees only 1 year old have them fail...They're junk and useless..Trust me.

Loco, Why is it, you ALWAYS have the hottest pics under your name??!! I'm shopping for a graphics kits for my newer yfz and want something custom...HOOK ME UP!!! I want something masciline, but seductive. Any ideas?

Your shee likes the 140 main jet?? I'd think your way too lean, I was running 162's in mine. I'd definately start up and work down from there. Hey loco, when are you gonna hook me up w/ some graphics for my quad??

Have you disconnected the tors yet?? Takes 2 seconds and saves a lot of headaches. The needles are located under the carb tops. Pull the spring back and shake the gold clip out. The spring will now come off and you can get to the 2 philip screws. Take them out w/ the metal piece. Your needle will now come out. There are 5 clips. Stock setting is the 3rd clip. Most fmf pipes like the 4th clip from the top (blunt end)...Porting can throw that off though..so you might need to be at the 2nd or 3rd clip...I'd check the tors first though.

Your right on the most part. Smaller carbs have faster air flow, so they pull more fuel out of the jets. HOWEVER, I've dynoed 28mm,33mm,34mm, and 35mm keihin carbs on my 4 mil shee...All 4 sizes liked the same main jet size. Ironic but true. The larger the carb, the more power increase. I actually gained more bottom end, then top end w/ the 35's...So when people say larger carbs only give you topend. Its not true. A properly jetted carb will gain all around if sized right. Good luck. 162 mains, DEJ needles on the 3rd clip, 48 pilot.

Its very common that people pull the bowls off the carbs and switch them. On some years, the carb bowls only have on side that has a brass tube from the bottom of the bowl which is for the choke. Make sure the left carb bowl has that tube in the bottom.. You can also blow air through it to make sure its not dirty...

Toomeys like larger mains. I've jetted them w/ 330 mains, needle on the 4th clip, stock pilots, adjust the air screw for throttle response. I'd also suggest running a +4 timing key or running +5 timing if you have the adjustable plate. You need more timing w/ higher octane.

Bogging at full throttle for 3-5 seconds or just when you first whack the throttle? I'm guessing when you first hit the throttle. Make sure the carbs are synced and adjust the air screws for throttle response..You might want to bump the mains to 240's for the K&N...

Your pilot circuit is running a little rich. Thats why its fine when its cold, but when it warms up, its a little rich..Adjust your air screw out a little. Adjust it when its warm. If your still too rich, then go to a smaller pilot jet.

Is your tors disconnected? Unplug the 3-wire plug by the front left exhaust. You don't need it and it does affect off idle symptoms like yours..If thats not it. Your shee should run the same w/ or w/o the air filter w/ the air box cover off...If it runs worse w/ the filter, then your filter is dirty or gummed up. If its a K&N filter. Don't use dish soap. It will ruin the filter. DON'T over oil your filter.. If it still runs bad after, then lower your needles like others suggested. Raise the clip to lower the needle..What clip position are your needles at now? What mods do you have as well as jetting?

Alright guys, I need your help here. I'm ordering a new seat for my quad and need a saying or phrase for the back of the seat..I was thinking about "roll with it", "Your losing", "Just hit it"....What would you guys put?

I'm still kickin. Running 4 business and riding across the country keeps me pretty busy...Speaking of which, ROD!!!! When the hell are you coming back out to Glamis?!!! Its only once a year. Splurge man, you only live once.... :cool:

I wouldn't completely rule me out yet!!! I chime in every once in a while to see whats up. I just don't have time to read everything all the time and wait for a response...but if someone needs help, I'll be in the shadows lurking...or just hit me up! :cool:

You are dead on. The sst's are way more of a midrange pipe than the fattys and the T5's....Jetting plays a huge role in how pipes pull. If not jetted right, someone can easily get misinterputed. I jetted a shee w/ sst's that pulled almost as hard as my shee w/ the pt mids.....fmf sst's pull hard w/ a 290 main, needle on the 4th clip w/ boysens and a 25 pilot w/ the air screw at around 1 turn out...The T5's need a 340 main, 25 pilot, and needle on the 5th clip...This is w/ stock porting and K&N filter. As for dyno testing pipes, I wouldn't waste my time...Some pipes will yield a throttle response and smoother power delivery that will mean more than peak hp. Especially in the woods...Lightswitch powerband will only get you ahead in a long distance drag race..True testing is in the field and what will be great for one might not be for another.

We changed the race to Saturday instead of Sunday. There is a storm coming in on Sunday. If the ice is still good the following weekend, then we'll race again....