fitz18

Get a clymers manual and take the carbs off and give them a real good cleaning. See what size jets your running and maybe check with the guys on here if your jetting is correct. My shee was like that and when I cleaned the carbs it started fine. Check yout slides are opening at the same time also. G

It could that the ball bearing could have welded to the push rod. Just a thought. You need to drop the trans oil and take off the clutch coverr to get a look and take it from there.

Hi all, Like the title says I have bubbles in my trans oil. You can see them all over the dip stick. Is this a problem or is it good to ride? whats the cause and cure for this? Thanks guys :biggrin:

Im gona try 250's tomorrow guys and do a plug chop. Thanks for all the help.

How much does humidity affect jetting guys? Had the bike going again today with the 240's. Shee was running perfect. Plugs look a little black.

I didnt do a plug chop I just took them out and looked at them. The bike was just completely bogging when I had the 280's in and didnt get much better with 260's. I know how to do the chop. I have read all the info on here already. I went for a rip at wot and then killed the engine, took out the plugs and put old ones in and went home. The plugs i used were new! I tried to take pics of the plus I took out but my camera is fucked.....and I've had a few beers and its 1.00am here so I gotta hit the hay!!! I dont know what to say tho guys cos the bike runs better with 240's. Anybody any thoughts? I'd hate her to blow!

ok so update...I put 280's in and was way rich. Bike was bogging and plugs were soaking. Then moved to 260's and still feels like she is bogging. Plugs are dark black. I think il try the 240's in and see where we go. Pity there is noone on here from ireland!! Ill keep you's posted! Thanks again guys

I asked two builders and they both are saying 240 should be fine maybe 260. I dont want to blow it so am just looking help. Think il do what nitrotake says and start with 300 an work my way down. Any more info would be great. Thanks

O and I am 78feet above sea level with average temp of 43F! Hope this is enough info for you guys to point me in the right direction. :biggrin:

Guys, Just done a rebuild. New pro x pistons, stock jugs with mild porting, k&N wilth snorkle removed from lid, stock carbs, DMC alien pipes and I have just installed a timing plate at +4. Where should I be with my jetting guys? I was running 240 mains and stock pilot before the rebuild but I didnt have the timing plate installed. I need help!!! Thanks

Hi guys, Ive lost the wee lock tab thingy that screws into the left hand carb and keeps the carb cap securely locked. IS it really important or can I ride with out it? Where would I get one? Thanks Gerard

Hi all, Quick question... Just finishing rebuilding my shee. Where does the black pipe at the back of the engine under the rear engine mount connect to?

Does the torque wrench just ensure the nuts/bolts etc wont come loose under pressure?

Anyone??? Whats the disadvantages of over tightening?? Want to get my shee up and running again.

Just like the title says guys, how important is it to torque the nuts and bolts to the correct specs? Im talking about case nuts and bolts, flywheel nut, clutch basket nut, etc. I dont have a torque wrench and am just wondering how critical this is? Thanks