JdiZzla

i do have play in the cable but even with it adjusted as loose as it will go the bike wont creep, is that a bad thing? When you say 10w40 are you talking about regular motor oil? If i dont have to i dont want to crack the case again, will those rubber o rings be enough of a problem to take it all apart to get them out? Has anyone ever heard of using the Honda trany fluid sae 80w/85w?

if youre lookin for more engine mods i would go for a noss cool head. and if i were you i would put on extended a-arms like +2 +1 with some dual or tripple rate shocks

Well the bottle of trany oil doesnt say anything about a wet clutch on it but it does say that it has "anti shear additives increase clutch life reducing slippage" so i would think it is for wet clutches....if not i am going to kill the guys at my local shop, they told me to get this over yamalube. I already put the case back on so i cant easily adjust the pressure plate, but what i did was put that middle screw all the way in then backed it out until it hit the pressure plate. I did not soak the fibers for any long amount of time, maybe 20 mins. Should i have done longer? Thanks

I last time i was at the dunes my clutch felt like it was slipping only when i would try to launch in 2nd at the hill. So yesterday i bought a clutch and put it in...i did not thow away those little rubber rings, should i have. Oh its an ebc dirt digger. I ran the 3 hd springs with 3 stock springs. I put in honda hp 80w/85w trany fluid. I have the little arrows on the case and clutch arm lined up and there is just a little slack in the cable at the lever. NOW MY QUAD slipps so bad its almost un-ridable. if i run on the street it will slip with me just gunning it in 1st or 2nd. What have i done wrong? This is the first time i have ever replaced a clutch and just did it by taking everything apart and putting it back the way i found it but i may have messed up something. Please help out, Justin

I just put some mods on my quad and now when the clutch is under really high stress, like when i shoot the hill, it slipps just a little. would putting the fzr fibers in help this. Also what exactly would i need to do that?

Yeah i know i was pissed to see that it was gone but there was a new jump that i saw some bikes hittin big, but i didnt see any sand cars or trucks hit it. I saw gordon hit that jump in his trophy truck and couldnt believe it, that guy has some balls and he hit it so smooth, i guess it helps when you have specialy made King Kong shocks on the baddest truck, but it is too bad its gone.

I have this saver and am really impressed, it goes on easy and it is made of a material that does not allow grease to stick to it. Mine is white and there is no grease on it at all. The TM design saver also protects more of the case, i think for the money it is a great mod, not as bling as the others but you cant see it behind the stator cas anyway

I would use a grinder first and try to wear it down as thin as you can. That is a lot of weld to get hot enough to break it off, grind it down, torch it, then just hammer away with an impact wrench

So basically it would be pointless because you couldnt get much hp from it. Well then my next question is does anyone have a banshee that they have turbo charged that runs really well? I just want to have a project quad that is a little out of the norm so something like a turbo might be interesting

ok before i even ask this i just want everyone to know that i am not very good with mechanics or how an engine works but with the little i do know i want to know if this would work.... I want to hook up a compressed air tank to my bike then have it flow into the intake like a power jet and then connect it to a gate valve that could be activated by an electronic switch on the handlebars like a noss switch. This way i could get boost like a turbo or charger withought either one. i would want to use this for short drag races, where you could fill up the tank after each run. i know this may sound dumb and not really useful but i would like to try and build it just to build it, to see if i could even make it work. So what do all you engineers think?

I just did this a couple days ago and it is easy....If you use an impact wrench. just an fyi the sprocket bolt is 32mm and i was told to use some medium stregnth lock tite on those three bolts.

I dont know if people still go there, i didnt because i was told it was closed down, and when i went to olds it was packed so i figured that comp had to have been closed. It was a whole lot of fun though and there were some people tearing up some nice rides.....did you see that the robby gordon jump was gone...my friends told me that they actually bulldozed it. I dont know if this is just drunk talk or not but the jump was definetly not there so....

Did you guys see how many cars were stuck on the way to olds on saturday night, i rode out there at about 10 or 11 and there had to have been 50 cars stuck....and what about those cops, whats the deal with shutting down olds? it wasnt that crazy and there were more people there in the day time anyway

i just went to the dunes this last weekend and one of the first things i did was turn the wheels and flip the bike. I was cresting a dune and turned my bike down the dune and the wheel on the inside of the turn caught and went completely perpandicular to the rest of the bike. This flipped the bike instantly because it threw me over down the hill. I have lonestar a arms that are +2 +1, with works tripple rate. My bike has the stock spindles and hubs. The mount on the frame that holds the steering stem in place has a notch to stop the stem from over steering but does not touch untill the wheels have already gone too far. what can i do and has anyone else had this problem? oh and i just was looking how it started happening and saw that my dirt wheels are not as off set as my sand wheels. The dirt wheels rub against the a arm not allowing the wheel to over steer, this is why it has not happend to me before, can the wheels just be too offset, the are blue label 10 inch rims?

So i was wondering if if i powder coat my pipes it will stop the leaking. My pipes are PT Hi revs and while riding the hanger weld broke on the pipes, i rewelded the hanger on but did not properly prep the area because i didnt want to take off all my chrome around the weld, bad idea on my part because now the weld leaks. THis is a VERY small leak, one that if i clean the oil on the pipe will take an hour of riding to even see the oil start forming around the weld. So i was wondering if i got the pipes powdercoated would this maybe seal the leak? Or would this be bad for the coating?