swrbansheeboy

i actualy forgot to mention one of the best swinger fabricators in the nation if not world... cassis inc. it's lew jr's company from twister and he does some of the best work i've ever seen. give him a call, 503-663-7711 you wont be sorry. he builds the frames and chassis for all the twister bikes....

in regards to the 2 into one question, this is the type of guage i use for my leakdown tester. it gets rid of the seperated pressure side and guage side issue. you can use a 3/4" thread by 3/4" slip (1" outer diameter) fitting for a stock intake. i also use a short piece of 3/4" pvc with a 3/4" pvc cap (1" outer) to plug the opposite side. for a 2 into one you need to use a 3/4" thread by (i wanna say) 1" slip. i'd have to go to the shop to confirm this. as for the cleaning the exhaust port to keep the plugs in, i've had problems before with shoddy port work and carbon build up leading to leaks at the exhaust ports so i've went to using a trick i learned a while ago... if you have access to a pair of stock front rubber hub caps you can slip them over your exhaust ports and use a couple hose clamps to clamp them down. if you dont have access to a set of hub covers then you can always get a pair of rubber fernco caps that work just as well. these are just the methods i use myself, i thought it might give everyone else some ideas of different ways to go about doing your leakdown test....

the same way you do a leakdown on a 2 carb set up, you just need to get a larger fitting for your air guage that fits your intake... cap the exhaust off and instead of plugging off one side and putting the guage on the opposite side you just need a larger fitting to fit the guage in the single intake...

podos has cheap arms, never owned one though... http://podosracing.com/main.html i am a huge fan of mod quad swingarms but i cannot find a link on there site.... modquad has excelent customer service...

it's actualy not that hard... pull the right side plug out and stick the plug cap on it, ground the end of the plug out against anything metal with your right hand and kick the bike over.... go try and let us know what happens...

have you checked the stator and pickup yet? from the sounds of it thats just about all it could be after everything you have tossed at it....

no link to them but you can call twister. 503-663-7711 http://67.199.65.66/twistercrankshaft/

yes, your engine is more than likely backing the plugs out due to detonation and it's more than likely because of your higher compression ratio from your cool head. now for the hard part, an explanation of what and why..... now i'm sure someone just like me who loves to argue will come in and tell me i'm wrong but i'll give it my best shot explaining this so if i miss something forgive me.... you know how they can compress coal so hard that it heats up and becomes a diamond? well if your familiar with this then you know that compressive force creates heat. now just as with the coal and diamond thing when you squeeze stuff inside your banshee engine it creates heat also, were not talking about heat from combustion when the fuel and air are ignited. were talking about pre heating your fuel/air mixture by squeezing it inside the cylinder before it gets touched off by the spark plug. now the way this works is that the higher your compression the hotter the fuel/air mixture trapped inside your cylinder gets because it gets "squeezed" harder creating more heat before ignition. now you may ask why does this have anything to do with my plug problem? we'll get to that in a second. now the hotter the fuel/air mixture is thats about to be ignited the easier it is to ignite which would normaly be a great thing if you didnt have this stupid timing thing to deal with. most all of us know about top dead center and what it is, you basicly want your fuel air mixture to go bang when the piston is right after tdc. now if your fuel is pre heated from to much compression and therefore way easier to ignite then it will have a tendency to go boom before it's supposed to. now if you look at your perfect timing as a line that shouldnt be crossed and when the boom happens as something that has to happen on or after it crosses the line this will get realy easy for you. several things can effect if the boom happens before/on or after the line... higher compression moves the boom backward behind the line... advancing your timing moves the boom backward behind the line.... running higher octain fuel moves the boom forward away from the line... backing your timing off moves the boom forward away from the line... now, you might wonder why everyone always ask's/recomends that you up the octain fuel your running when you are having problems from to much compression. contrary to what many people think the higher the octain rating your fuel has does not equate to how much more it blows up when ignited or that it makes more power because it has that many more octains in it than regular pump gas. it actualy is a measurement of how resistant the fuel is to ignition, the higher the octain the more heat it takes to ignite it. why on earth would you want to use fuel thats harder to ignite you may ask? simple, because you have to much compression thats pre heating your fuel mixture causing it to ignite before it's supposed to. by using the higher octain/harder to ignite fuel your getting your fuel mixture to ignite like it's supposed to. now as to why your plugs are backing out, are you familiar with acoustics? basicly whats happening is that the violent boom caused by the fuel/air ignition is happening before it should and it's reverberating inside your cylinders longer than it usualy does before the exhaust ports open. this causes a resonance that just happens to vibrate your plugs loose. back your timing down or run higher octain fuel to get the boom where it needs to be and this resonance will start occuring late enough that it wont get a chance to shake your plugs loose. now this may not make any sense and as i said before i'm sure i forgot a bunch of stuff (like flame fronts /oil mixtures/ carbon build up and what-not) but hey, i tried dammit! basicly your fuel heats up too easy causing it to ignite to early making a loud bang that comes to early causing your spark plugs to rattle out of there holes, if you want to solve the problem back your timing down or start running higher octain fuel...

end play is usualy thought of as movement in and out not up and down. if that shaft has in and out movement then thats ok to a certain point, if it has up and down play as you have stated then you need to pull the shaft and swap the bearing out. none of the shafts that mount side to side in the cases should have any up/down play. as to what your noise is i can only guess that it is from that bad bearing but it could be a combination of several things and the bearing is just one bad piece. if you start poking around a little closer it should be evident where your metal shavings are coming from, just look for the piece thats realy shiney where it shouldnt be.... if you have a hinson basket and it has 1/4 inch of slop in it just pull the backing plate and install new cushions, there only $20 for upp cushions from twister...

go with a motion pro terminator, you wont be sorry... http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...3#vehicleSelect

jesus f-n christ! maybe you could go a bit farther and just say you ripped sheefreak off because your getting back at whitey for 400 years of oppression! #1 get a clue #2 lose the crutch #3 learn to type an understandable sentance #4 quit f-ing people over #5 understand that just because your a minority doesnt give you the right to act like a douch then throw the race card when you feel people aren't siding with your viewpoints. you dont do yourself any good and actualy cast a negative stigma on other minoritys by acting like a victim as soon as the opportunity arises.... just my opinion....playa...

i personaly use a 1/2" foot lbs torque wrench , a 1/4" inch lbs torque wrench with a variety of adapters and extensions for all my assembly work...

looks like you were building excessive heat on the right piston and got it just hot enough to warp the piston crown but didnt blow a hole in it, maybe due to low compression so it didnt build enough compression to blow the crown out. it's obvious that the tollerances were a bit less than desirable causing quite a bit of piston slap which is probably what caused the skirt to crack. your actualy pretty lucky you didnt end up stuffing a bunch of molten aluminum through the bottom end or busting the skirt off and grinding it up. as to why it happen i cant tell you, usualy detonation effects both cylinders but if your compression was off a bit then it would effect one cylinder more than the other. could be an air leak on the intake, usualy crank seals effect the left side not the right. coolant leaks can cause detonation but usualy you wind up with one piston that looks cleaner than the other...what you have there is kinda odd imo. and yea, thats a stock clutch basket and pressure plate..

it's got straight cut gears and they replaced the rubber cushions with the springs so your not supposed to have to strip it down and swap out the cushions when they get beat down... http://www.hinsonracing.com/store/product.html?prod_id=20

i've seen scattered clutch parts many times but i've never seen a tz go bad... i wonder if it had a flaw to begin with?

are you trying to stay local or are you willing to ship? also are you trying to stick with a site sponsor or not? for sponsors hjr and fast, if not and willing to ship i use twister crankshafts, louis the man in my neck of the woods...

hey guys, thats what were trying to figure out. he said he had a spring left over after his build but didnt know what it was for so since there were no pics i posted the rad spring pic as a referance... snop, rear spring for a 10lbs rider maybe..lol

i didnt even pay attention to the 6" comment...sorry. but hey, does that spring look like this by any chance?

just to follow up, if there original carbs then you need to have the choke tube hooked up. if you meant to say that they "AREN'T" original carbs then ok but if they are the factory 26mm mikuni carburators that came stock on the bike then they need to have the choke tube installed. i agree that 119 is low for a rebuild, you said that it was done a year ago but how much of that year did it sit at the dealer and at your hous not running correctly? how many hr's would you say are on the engine so far since it was re-built? regardless 119 isnt so low it shouldnt run, i agree that you need to pull the carbs off and clean em up like new. then get them dialed in correctly, from what your describing it definatly saounds like some sort of carburation issue. you can also do a leakdown test in your spare time if your bored...

my experiance is that you dont want to polish your cylinders, you should let someone else do it.... you might think that it's expensive untill you try and do it yourself, then you'll understand that it's better left to someone else...

spring out of the carb top?

is the choke tube hooked up between the carbs?

not sure on the part# for the cable but dont run the e85, i just got done rebuilding a shee for a guy who was trying to run e85 and he burnt it up several times. he's also running a trinity single carb set up and this last time he had the largest jets in the carb he could find and 22cc domes in his cool head and still burnt it down. to run e85 you basicly have to build the bike like your running alcohol, after you factor in the fuel consumption and all the time and effort plus trial and error of getting it running right your better off sticking with race fuel. its predictable and safe, e85 is sketchy and the gains in cost to me arent worth what it takes to make it work.... i'm sure there are many others here with other opinions but mine is just stick with whats working for you now instead of jumping into something else...

yea flint, thanks for keeping us free man! as for the 4 or 6 question, i believe that the 87-89 bikes had the 4 bold rear hub and the 90 up have the 6 bolt. i may be wrong, id have to go to the shop and look at my 89 to confirm that it has the 4 bolt but i'm positive with a 01 you have a 6 bolt... bike bandit shows it as having a 6 bolt....

you guys can call me a dick all you want but if your question is between replacing your clutch and adjusting it then to me common sense says you should try and adjust it before you swap the clutch out. then to follow up by stating that you've owned 3 bikes (one of them being "dragged out" ) leads me to believe that you should know how to adjust a clutch or at least know how to read a manual that can tell you how to adjust your clutch. sorry if i offended all of you but i think it's pretty obvious that when given the option of spending some coin for a new clutch or not spending anything by adjusting it then you'd go with the latter... especialy if you've owned 3 bikes and one of them was "dragged out" and shit... adjust the clutch first since it's free. if that doesnt work then swap the fluid, see if that cures your problem. if not then you can grab a manual and a dial caliper and mic your fibers to see if there still in spec and visualy inspect your steel's to make sure there not blued/scored or warped. if anythings off then replace it. how much hp are you pushing? if your around 50hp or less you can get away with a set of tusk clutches and steels from rocky mt for pretty cheep. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productD...2#vehicleSelect but hey, dont listen to me. like fever said....i'm just running my mouth because i dont know anything. you notice how much advice he gave you.... and call me an arrogant asshole, thats fine. if i'm arrogant because i expect you to try and adjust your clutch or at least ask how to adjust your clutch before you ask if your clutch is smoked then i guess i'm an arrogant asshole...