toyotaman

Ok i was having this same issue with my stock banshee carbs. they were spotless through out and i just couldnt figure out why it wasnt started. then after searching around i found out that the carb bowls have to go on to spicific carbs. look at the front of your bowls with the carbs on the bike. the left carb with the choke plunger should have a bowl with a little brass bee bee looking thing on the front of it. this is kinda hard to explane. anyway, your left carb should have the bowl with the little gold bee bee looking thing of the front of it. if you look directly at the front of the bowl you will see it and know what im talking about. if it is on your right side carb instead of the left its like having no choke and it doesnt get enough fuel and willl never want to start. hope this helps.

What he said. Just pick a good quality oil and in my opinion, I wouldn't run anymore oil in your mix then 32.1.

Ok well I finally got the quad running decently. realized my slides were in backwards. I also dropped my jetting down to 330 mains because it was running very rich. now i've ran into another issue. If the bike sits over night it does not want to start. the only way i was able to get it started was with a little bit of ether after about 60 kicks. i don't know what the issue is. its getting good spark. i tested the wires. but my plugs are really wet looking when im first trying to start it, almost as if its flooded. its driving me crazy. any input would be really appreciated.

Ok before I ask my questions I want to tell you guys what I have. Just so you know this will be a little long winded so bear with me please!! I have an o4 banshee that I just had some motor work done on and I was wondering if you guys could get me into the ball park jetting area Im suposed to be in.I know that every quad will be a little different but im hopping youll be able to help. I also have a question about my clutch that Ill get to later. OK so heres what I have. -tommey t5 pipes -stock carbs with tors removed tommey needles and 360 main jets with 30 piolets, needles are on 3rd grove -K&N pod filters -cool head with 18cc domes -timming advanced 4 degrees -v force 3 reeds -cylinders bored .40 over stock with wiseco pro lites -Hot dune port done by camron at Redline racing -Running Torco 110 octane race gas at 32:1 with Torco GP 7 two stroke oil so theres everything done to her. I just got it started after the build and its running rich as hell. Before I had the work done I was at .30 on the bore with a mild play port and ran 340 mains. so i jumped up two main jet sizes with the more aggressive port work and the bigger bore wanting to be more safe the sorry when i started the bike. The bike is a dune bike that I run at sea leve but i am breaking it in at my house which is approx 1600 feet,(In Eagle Point,OR). My issue right now is it does not want to idle at all. my carbs are synced and I did not change any of the carb settings from where they were before, besides adding bigger. jets. the thing is really bogging off the bottom and has absolutely no low end, atleast for banshees sake. it basicly doesnt want to stay running unless you hold it at half throttle. when i had the cylinders done camron told me that i would have to do only minnor tunning changes after putting in the bigger jets. so im not getting why its running so rich on the bottom end when in theory with the more aggressive porting it should be just right at the elevation im at. so i know i have prolly lost you guys at this point and your saying what the hell is he talking about, hopfully one of you can read and understand all this bullshit. any ideas would be great secondly, im running a hinson 8-plate clutch on it. im using my stock inner hub and pressure plate that havent been modified. my problem with this is the adjuster screw for the clutch is not long enough and doesnt reach the ball inside the clutch, there fore it wont dissengage. Im running on of the pancake berring kind of disengagers from cascade and i called them and they told me to buy a longer stud for it, unfortionatly i cant find one like it that is a bit longer. when I called redline and told him my issue he simply said to take out the eigth plate and run seven. i did this and from the little bit of putting ive done with it it is grabbing. the problem is by removing the eight plate from that basket it doesnt allow you to tighten the clutch springs down as far, so when the clutch is engaged its not pushed together near as hard. you guys following me? has any one had this problem with a hinson basket, i did a search and couldnt find a thing about it. any help would be great guys, thanks. :smile:

im running 20cc domes on mine with t5 pipes at sea level and im happy with it. :biggrin:

take the cylinders to a shop and have them bored to the right specs. doin it with a hone would take for ever and prolly wouldnt turn out near as good. do it right the first time so your not pullin it apart again.

ok. can someone tell me the real deal on trueing and welding banshee cranks. when my motor blew i had to bore it and was gonna have my crank welded. i like to jump mine and ive been told that jumping a banshee with a un welded crank will cause it to go out of phase and f stuff all up. so anyway i went to all of my local quad shops and they all said that it would be a waste of my time because my motor isnt very hopped up. so i just wanna know the truth. they were saying that landing from a jump with the gas on is no different then dumping your clutch in a drag race. they said it would put the same amount of stress on the crank either way. so whats the truth. is it something i should think about on my bike. or should i just go with a hotrods stock stroke crank that is already welded? and sorry for stealing someelses post.

has anyone tried to run the fibers from an r1 streetbike. ive herd that holds up real well but never have tried it my self. a guy i work with runs it on his hoped drag bike and has no complants. that might be something for you to check into.

get the motor as clean as possible before you start tearin into it. i like to take pics on a digital camera as i take it apart so if im ever wonderin about how something goes in i can go back and look at the pics. it helps me! :cool:

I bought a motor off of Ebay, it had never been fired and the guy I got it from didn't know much about it. He got it from a friend who supposedly built it at a shop he worked at near Portland Oregon. The reed spacers have Moore performance stamped on them. I've taken it to some of the local shops, and here is what I know so far. It is bored 50 over, ported extensively for top-end, lightened flywheel, Wiseco pro-lite pistons, Pro-design Coolhead w/16cc domes, V-force reeds w/aluminum spacers, boost bottle, stock carbs w/tops TORS eliminated, 330 main jets, needles are on 4th groove, stock pilot jets, dual KN pods, Toomey T-5's, Dyna ignition, adj.timing plate. I got just the motor off Ebay and already had the carbs from my other motor that blew up. I put the 330 mains in it. I had it leak tested(It's tight), had idle screws tapped into the carbs. It was adjusted to run and idle by a local shop. It runs and idles good, but has no top end and bogs at at anything past 1/2 throttle. I was running a 40:1 mix with Yamalube oil. I mixed 2 gal. of premium and 3 gal. of 110 oct. race fuel. I did this at 1800' elev. but want to set it up for the coast or sea level (dunes). Plugs were black at that time. The Dyna ignit. is set to stock, but there is also an adjustable timing plate on it. If i'm reading it correctly, it's advanced 8 degrees. that seems like too much. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right, but I'm reading it by the tick mark that is in line with the split in the case. I know that there is many variables, but I'm not a pro racer or even a mechanic, I just want to get this thing to where I can ride it without it blowing up and then fine tune it. Should I be running higher octane, like 114, and possibly be doing without the premium mix?Is my timing too advanced. I really need some suggestions on basically everything!!!!! I'm overwhelmed,Please Help!

I bought a motor off of Ebay, it had never been fired and the guy I got it from didn't know much about it. He got it from a friend who supposedly built it at a shop he worked at near Portland Oregon. The reed spacers have Moore performance stamped on them. I've taken it to some of the local shops, and here is what I know so far. It is bored 50 over, ported extensively for top-end, lightened flywheel, Wiseco pro-lite pistons, Pro-design Coolhead w/16cc domes, V-force reeds w/aluminum spacers, boost bottle, stock carbs w/tops TORS eliminated, 330 main jets, needles are on 4th groove, stock pilot jets, dual KN pods, Toomey T-5's, Dyna ignition, adj.timing plate. I got just the motor off Ebay and already had the carbs from my other motor that blew up. I put the 330 mains in it. I had it leak tested(It's tight), had idle screws tapped into the carbs. It was adjusted to run and idle by a local shop. It runs and idles good, but has no top end and bogs at at anything past 1/2 throttle. I was running a 40:1 mix with Yamalube oil. I mixed 2 gal. of premium and 3 gal. of 110 oct. race fuel. I did this at 1800' elev. but want to set it up for the coast or sea level (dunes). Plugs were black at that time. The Dyna ignit. is set to stock, but there is also an adjustable timing plate on it. If i'm reading it correctly, it's advanced 8 degrees. that seems like too much. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right, but I'm reading it by the tick mark that is in line with the split in the case. I know that there is many variables, but I'm not a pro racer or even a mechanic, I just want to get this thing to where I can ride it without it blowing up and then fine tune it. Should I be running higher octane, like 114, and possibly be doing without the premium mix?Is my timing too advanced. I really need some suggestions on basically everything!!!!! I'm overwhelmed,Please Help!

dude banshees kick ass. but yes like every one else has said they are one hell of a money pit. i bought mine when i tured 16 and its definatley been a learning experinace. when something breaks you just tear it apart and figure out how to rebuild it. atleast thats what i did. theres really now quad like the banshee

hey i gotta quick question, i dont understand the whole stroker thing and long rod. is there some place around here that explanis that. also how would you benifit from the 5 mill long rod rods? just curious?

hey you can get a full banshee bolt kit from cascade innovations, they are all stainless steel too. but its pretty pricy. i cant remeber how much is was though. my bro bought a banshee bolt kit off line from ebay, it was new but alot of the shit didnt work. and they dont come with like that big swing arm or the ones for the upper a arms. i think that goes for all the kits.

hey guys. my left cylinder ate alot of sand so im honing out my cylinders. i have the motor all pulled out. i replaced my pistons and had it bored like 4 months ago then a boot got ripped on it the other day and it sucked in a bunch of sand. its like 40 bucks for a full gasket kit. so i was thinking of just spliting the case and getting my crank welded and trued and new berings on it while its all apart so i dont have to worry about it. is it really hard to get the case apart. i dont wanna have to deal with a bunch of hard tranny stuff but i would like to do this. any help would be awsome. you guys kick ass.