banchilla

got a buddy with a drag ported banshee tapered 28mm carbs and t-5 wants to switch 2 CPI inframes does he need to rejett??

only reason i wanted smaller carbs is to save on gas, race gas is great but when im on empty and my buddy still has half a tank i start thinking about how much its costing me to ride

Ok so i just bought a 98 banshee 4 mill with passion 12 port work done to. it talked with jim (at passion) said i should have about 70-73hp (he built it about 5 years ago) Im happy has hell with the ride. looking into buying new 10 paddle haulers but i keep getting told to scrap the 8" rim and go to 10" ......is there any real reason to go to 10" rim?? and im running 35MM carbs would it be possible to go to a smaller carb without losing power?

sorry posted in wrong section!!

Ok so i just bought a 98 banshee 4 mill with passion 12 port work done to. it talked with jim (at passion) said i should have about 70-73hp (he built it about 5 years ago) Im happy has hell with the ride. looking into buying new 10 paddle haulers but i keep getting told to scrap the 8" rim and go to 10" ......is there any real reason to go to 10" rim?? and im running 35MM carbs would it be possible to go to a smaller carb without losing power? thanks for the help!!

thanks man i tried doing a search before posting didnt find anything that helped out a lot!!!

is it possible to take the a-arms from a yfz 450 and use them on a banshee or do they make kits for this kind off conversion??

PM me the price on the complete motor

i bought the carbs with the Tor eliminator kit already on they just dont have the idle screw kit. so here is what i have tried. pulled the sliders out and flipped them around because i got told they maybe on backwards and now it wont run at all but if i flip them the way they were it will fire on the first kick

maybe i didnt explain myself enough i cant do any of those test for air leaks because it revs like its open FULL throttle, right after it starts. so i dont leave it running i just kill it after a 10-15 secs. and like i said on my first post the carbs i have on right now DO NOT have idle screws.

whats the best way to make sure they are closing and in sync???

so i just got my banshee back together lastnight and and the first kick it fires up makes, :biggrin: me happy but the problem is the rpm's keep climbing non stop from the moment it turns on. every kick same things just revs up and wont come down. checked the needles looked good check the reeds look good. i basically looked it all over and have no clue what the problem is. i even back the throttle all the way off to make sure the carbs are closing completely. any advice would help out a lot. just a little about the bike stock carbs TORS removed NO IDLE screws( not sure if thats what doing it or not) ported cylinders stock head DG pipes everything is almost stock. please help i have the itch to go riding this weekend

just took my cylinders off my 87 banshee bored 45.5 make me an offer shipping cost is from zip code to zip code

buddy of mine gave some ported cylinders and thats all i know about them how can i tell what kind of port job they have. dune?? trail?? drag?? be nice to know if i decide to use them or sell them, the port work is really good and clean. anyone interested in buying some ported cylinders :cool: ???

so my top end broke I bought a nice set of dune ported cylinders and i just want more so i decided to go with the 392cc T-Rex Cylinder Kit. http://www.bansheedepot.com/products.asp?cat=18 . anyone give me any info about T-Rex kits or if i did go with this kit what else would i have to run. carbs pipes new clutch? please give me any advise you can thanks :biggrin: