2003LimitedBanshee

This is not that uncommon. It seems there is enough friction when the clutch is disengaged, or in this case in neutral to get some movement. When my bike is relatively cold (gear oil is thicker) I can have it in neutral rev it a little and as the RPM's are dropping you can feel a very small surge, if you want to call it that, forward. I don't feel that this is anything to worry about, especially if you had your bike inside, on stands it probably was not up to operating temp (in the tranny) so you would see the higher resistance (ie. movement) due to your tranny oil being thicker.

PING is an acronym for Pre-Ignition. It's caused by some condition in the cylinder causing the air/fuel mix to ignite before the plug fires. You correct this pre-ignition problem by running higher octane fuel, as octane is essentially a measure of a fuels resistance to ignition. The unstable charge can be caused by higher cylinder temperatures as a result of increased compression, advanced timing etc. You may be able to get away with running an octane boost, but not the cheap-o Wal-Mart 97 cent stuff, and a good octane boost (although none of them are what they used to be) will probably be more expensive than cutting some race fuel into the mix.

Popping on the top end generally indicates a lean condition, which based on your mods you shouldn't have, unless you have an air leak. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the carb boots/reeds etc. If you have an air leak the RPM will rise when you spray the leak. I have a friend with an '87 who was having the same problem, but I haven't got a chance to run through it (he's not that mechanically inclined) and test certain areas. It is probably not electrical, if you have swapped wires/plugs etc from side-to-side and it didn't exhibit the same problem on the right side. That would lead me to suspect some kind of carb, reed, intake type of issue on the left side. Theres also the outside chance that you may have a head gasket problem affecting the left side, letting coolant into that cylinder at different times affecting performance. Unfortunately it could be many many things, but it usually seems fairly simple just overlooked.

Somebody always seems to jump in with a semi-smartallac response like this. However, it is supposed to limit the possibilty of causing interference with the CDI. Now, some may have no problem with CDI interference without resistor wires or plugs, but if you do it's gonna suck. I think you're right on running the resistor plugs just in cause. Plus as long as you don't buy them at the stealership, they're basically the same price. I get a pretty good deal from a buddy that owns a NAPA here, but I think for me it's only like 37 cents/plug between BR8ES and B8ES.

You've been PM'd

That's why I posted that about 45 mins before your post. I did buy that a long time ago. As I said it wasn't junk, perfect, brand new parts, smoking deal, fast shipping, and all that. Too good of a deal to pass up. SOLD

Golden Spectro at 48:1, 40%/60% Trick 116 w/premium. Like others have said, run what your oil manufacturer suggests based on riding conditions. They've tested it to those specs. Remember you only need just enough oil to lube the bearings, bores etc. no more, no less.

There are screws the sit perpendicular to the carb bore and hold the slide at the appropriate height to set the idle speed, however this does not affect the idle jetting, only idle speed. Also, your bike will only have this if it is older (pre-TORS) or if someone has removed it from your bike. There are small, flush-mount screws on the left hand side, rear of the carbs that run at about a 45 degree angle. This is your pilot jet air screw. If you've bottomed this out it will not allow enough air for the idle circuit. If it is the first set of screws, idle, that you've bottomed out, the idle speed should be pretty high (assuming the idle screw bosses have been machined to the appropriate height). Edit: Just looked at your profile and you have a '99 which I'm pretty sure should have come with TORS, unless you or someone removed it. Do you have big, clunky do-dads on top of your carbs. If so you've got TORS, and you wouldn't have idle screws, so you would have bottomed out the air screws. After rereading your post, I think this is where your problem is. But you could have a plugged pilot jet or a few other things... Need some more info.

Did the mount go with the handlebars?? I would assume yes, but interested if not.

Nope... Sorry guys been the proud new owner for quite some time. No offense but $260 shipped? The parts were brand new as he described, and retail for over $430.

There's the first part of your problem right there. By turning your air screws all the way in, you are not giving the bike any air (effectively) to idle on. This would give you all around crappy performance. I would install the 25 pilot and open (back out, whatever you want to call it) the air screw by about .5 turn out. When you say you are running an open air box with K&N filters do you mean you still have an airbox with a K&N, or clamp ons. If you are running clamp ons, and no airbox, you should bump your main up several sizes, somewhere in the sub-350 range. How many slots do those Vito's needles have? If it has six it is probably similar (same?) as the Dynojet needle, if so I would set it at the 4th clip from the blunt end. This should get you close. If you still have problems you'll need specific actions under specific conditions.

Sorry but the "good" Foakley's have the Patent numbers forged as well. I guess they figure if they are gonna go to jail, might as well go big. The Foakley's don't come with the box, Microfiber bag etc. though, so my money is on them being the real deal. Oh, and I think Twenty's retail for $125 Kawakid, I paid $125 for mine, but that was like 5+years ago, so they could have come down. 'nother free bump...

I don't know if the brake configuration is slightly different on older bikes, but on newer stuff, the valve stem will not clear the caliper. I believe you must drill an new valve stem hole on the inside (now outside) of the wheel and plug the existing hole. The only other thing I wondered about was increased stress on the hub, but I suppose many aftermarket wheels (I'm thinking ITP Type C's) have about the same offset as you would have with reversed wheels. So...?

WOW! Those pipes look killer, and the bike isn't bad either. Gorgeous!

With the clamp-ons I would suspect you should be more near to 330 range. You can use the stock needles, it seems to be much more personal preference than anything else. I would say 3rd clip on the stock needle, 4th if you step up to the Dynojet (included with Toomey kit) needle. The pilot jet sits in the casting right next to the main jet. The plastic guard/guide piece that fits around the main, where the tab goes down into the carb, that is where you will find your pilot jet. I ran a 27.5 pilot at 1.75 turns, but recently went back to the 25 (stock) pilot w/.5 turns out on the air screw after installing my VForce3's and noticed significantly better throttle response than immediately after the VForce install with 27.5's. I run this setup at Horsfall (Coos Bay/North Bend) flawlessly.

I may be very interested in the Trailtech mount (not as much bars, but if you don't want to separate??). Anyway you could post/PM or email pics? Thanks!

I posted on this a while back. I was considering having my T5's Thermal coated (Jet-Hot). All of my cars with headers have ceramic coated finishes. Now, I haven't seen quad applications where dyno comparisons have been done, but I can tell you that the primary reason for HP increases in automotive applications are due to lower underhood temperatures due to the less heat sync from the coated headers into the intake air under the hood. In a quad application this would seem to be far less of an issue (open-air). However, there is no doubt that ceramic coating looks amazing for years, and could prevent the pipes from getting as hot to the touch.

Neat money saving tip. Although I must agree I prefer cut fenders, and I drilled out my rear safety warning leaving the small holes. But if you don't want the holes, need fenders and don't want to get screwed on eBay, this is great!

Hey everybody, just wanted to post a quick note about the '06 YFZ 450 taillight. It's now clear w/ Red LEDs, shaped much like the TRX 450 taillight. I managed to steal one off eBay for $35 bucks. Had to simply clip the stock YFZ connector (wondering if I could have used the TORS plug, triangular?), and attach new bullet connectors. I'm going to break an aluminum bracket for it tomorrow to give it a clean mount. Fired it up and it works great, and should look bitchin'. I'm going to try and post a few pics when I get it buttoned up.

If by breaking up you mean it blubbers or 4-cycles, essentially won't clean out. Then it sounds fat. Which by your mods may make sense. The 280's I would have thought were way too big for stock pipes, but that's not the issue we need to look at now. I would drop a size, and then another if it does not clean out and pull strong all the way through. Now does it pop when it starts breaking up, or does it act as though the choke was pulled? If it pops, then that would indicate that it was lean, and based on your mods I would start looking for an air leak, because it shouldn't be lean at 330. Check a few of those things and see if it helps.

This will sound dumb, but check to make sure you've got enough gas. If you get low, or need to switch to reserve, the routing of the stock fuel rubber fuel lines will starve the left cylinder before the right. It will continue to run on the right cylinder, but will act somewhat similar to what you are describing. Although, you could also have a plugged jet as well. If it was running fine, it is unlikely that simply swapping plugs will make a difference. It sounds stupid, but in these cases check the "no-brainer" stuff first.

The first thing that pops into my mind is that the slides are reversed. This would not be affected by either needle, otherwise I would wonder if the needle was not correct for the app. Check the slides for starters. Otherwise check the cable and then watch the needle through the back of the carb to make sure it is lining up with the main jet bore.

The kit itself is easy to install, although I would recommend access to a drill press for drilling the idle screw bosses. However, you will need the idle screws, as well as new carb tops and cable. Now, I believe you can unplug the TORS "brain" initially without removing the tops or installing the idle screws. It is basically on the opposite side of the frame from the ignition coil. You'll see a triangular black plug. I believe by just doing this it will disable the TORS and you can pick up the kit later.

You've got a PM.

What he is referring to is making sure that the carb slides are sync'd, meaning that they both begin to move up the slide bores at exactly the same time. However, if you did not install a TORS eliminator kit, nothing you would have done could cause the sync of the carbs to change. The only problem you could encounter, should be if the carbs were not sync'd properly to begin with. You can check this pretty easily with the filters removed. Simply feel through the back of the carbs at the same time and slightly crack the the throttle until you feel the slides move. They should start to move at the same time. If they do not you will need to adjust the sync using the large, dime-sized, silver knobs on top of the TORS units. Adjust the slide that moves last until it moves at the same time as the first slide. But again, in theory nothing you did installing the pipes and filters alone, would have caused this to change.