2003LimitedBanshee

Strange! but true! Yeah I always run that on my mtn bike chain too. That's where I got the idea, just tried it out and it worked.

Duh! I just reread the very first post (I'm an idiot shoot me now ) and he plainly stated that he is running 34mm's. Took Wallrat to ask the question for me to even look. With that said, I would still say from looking at the pics that you are lean. Now, are the pics you have of the carbs the stockers or the 34's?

My first was my Banshee too. I had ridden dirt bikes for several years prior (two strokes) so I had a decent idea what to expect. But like everyone else has said, as long as you are aware of the capabilities of the bike, and more importantly yourself, there is no reason why you couldn't start on a Banshee. A friend of a friend's (kind of thing) 11 year old daughter rides a Banshee. They have the throttle limited so she can't go ape on it, and it is stock, but she wings that thing around. Another plus to the Banshee, as many have mentioned, is that you can continue to build and build so that the bike will keep up with your ability. I will say that I think a lot of people outbuild their ability, but hey having the baddest bike around is still cool, even if it is too much for you really.

Tri Flow is quite possibly the best lubricant made. I know this is a crappy product thread, but I would highly recommend Tri Flow to anybody who rides sand. With sand you can't run that Chain wax stuff, it leaves way too much residue. Most all say they leave a finish similar to Cosmolene, I know I don't want anything remotely close to Cosmolene on a wear item like a chain. I clean and spray Tri Flow on my chain before every trip to the dunes. Don't have to relube, attracts on the most minimal sand, and lasts. Oh yeah, crappy products... who invented the degree key?

Yeah, from the pictures I would suspect that it is lean, plus I would anticipate much richer jetting with the Pro Circuits and K&N's (clamp on's right?). I haven't jetted a PC piped bike, but I would guess that you should be in the low to mid 300's with most pipes and clamp ons. Probably around 340 or so at those temps. At an idle it is not at all uncommon for the bike to smoke some (hard to say because ALOT is different for every person, are we talking fumagating for mosquitos?). Is it the smoke or something else that makes you think that it is rich at low RPM?

Maybe I should take the 38 degrees of total advance out of my blown '67 Nova, bet it runs better after that Like wallrat said, as long as you make other adjustments to make sure everything is in order, timing advance (to a point) is a great source of additional power in most any application.

Maybe I am looking at the picture wrong, maybe not?? It does appear that the boss is drilled through, but maybe it is just dark in the back, and mud sitting in the bottom of the boss. Now, the other carb does have a screw in this location, correct? Without the idle screw installed, I believe the slide should be able to go past the hole (no idle screw to stop it), thus at idle the hole would be almost or entirely sealed, thus no affect (or minimal on idle speed), however at higher rpm, the slide should expose the hole, creating the air leak. Making a few fairly educated guesses here, but could be wrong...

Just based on what you have for mods, and the problems you are describing, I would guess you are lean, unless you are at a fairly significant elevation. I would suspect you would be in the low to mid 300's with those mods. Probably right around 320-330. In regards to the smoke out of the right tailpipe. Mine has always done this until it warms up quite well. However, if the smoke is whiter, and never seems to go away it could be a crank seal gone bad. Does this smoke go away if you get on it real hard? In my understanding, if you have a crank seal gone, the smoking should get worse due to the increased crankcase vacuum.

Any chances that a kit could be put together with a set of duners from Elka? In all fairness it will be later this spring or early summer (after I finish my car) before I'll be dropping bigger money on my bike, but if it is a possibility I will definitely keep you guys in mind. Thanks!

You don't want to compensate for the missing idle speed screw, by making jetting changes. You want to replace the idle screw. I believe Toomey sells just the screws (about $23), and I'm sure others do as well. Otherwise you have an air leak, and worse you have a direct line for dirt, dust and moisture to get into the carbs --> cylinders.

There's another thread right around here towards the top. It sounds like they have been sold under many names in the past, and have had very mixed reviews. Some say absolute crap, others say not so bad. I was thinking about these also, but I'm thinking I'll take my chances trying to swing a deal with Alba on their +2,+1 combo and some Dunes Editions

Also another thread running right now, not too happy about the quality of Full Flight etc. etc. I'd be willing to bet that you might be able to work something with Alba on the Elkas. I would like to see about the Duners, and thought I would call them to see if I could upgrade to the Duners at an additional price. Worth a shot???

Jetting is easy, good jetting is harder, but still achievable. The nice thing about jetting is that it is basically trial and error to get it exactly right. Now just make sure you aren't too lean, on your trial or it could get bad quick. Once you're in the ballpark it just take several small tweaks to find that optimal combo. EDIT: Sorry forgot some recomendations. Don't know anything about the "Power Pipes", but based on the other stuff you will probably be in the 330 range. Most pipes will like anywhere from 320-350 with no airbox. Don't know what exactly was involved in your cleanup port/polish. If it was more just a polish, this shouldn't really affect the jetting more than a size (best guess) as it should really affect the engine's ability to move a significant amount more air. If it has been opened up, you may end up a few sizes larger for the port. Probably stock pilot or 27.5 at largest. And probably 4th clip on stock needle. NOW! this assumes you are at sea level with ambient temp around 55 degrees or so. At elevation or temp variation will change jetting.

Sorry sounded that way Just the way I write/talk. I tend to be very technical/detail oriented.

No, why do you need some help? I have read out of books before... This is just how people type when they rnt using abbreviations 2 rite their response, u no? edit: Oh yeah, here's some reading for you... not exactly a book, but it would be made from paper if you printed it... The way Toomey says to adjust (but what do they know?)

I know this is slightly off topic, but sense it is being discussed. This is going to sound stupid, and is not meant to be insulting but, are you warming the bike up before draining the tranny oil. I've never only put just one quart in, but I can't imagine it would even make it to the acceptable range on the dipstick.

I just cut my with canola oil to save some money. Why waste all that extra on two stroke oil when you can economize. What is that stuff like $4 a gallon? You know how far that goes?

I've got a Spyder TL Plus, with a DYE 14" barrel. I'm not much for tourney playing so the electronic isn't a necessity. I'm a sniper at heart, so going a round for 6-10 great shots is what I love, but it will lay paint when necessary. Haven't played in a while, but literally just polished it up the other day, thinking about playing soon hopefully.

somebody make it stop, everybody make it stop!

Because you should have some free play in the throttle cable. In other words, when the slides rest against the Idle speed screw (I, in your diagram) the screw, not the cable adjuster should be restricting the slide from going in lower in the bore (thus reducing rpm more if it did), not the cable being tight, and thus the slide physically unable to drop any further. Otherwise, if I'm understanding how you adjust yours, there really wouldn't be any reason to have the idle screws (I) because the cable would be tight (uanble to slow rpm any further) when your thumb was completely off the throttle. If it is properly adjusted, without the idle screws the rpm would be able to drop further than the minimum idle speed due to the extra slack (small amount) that should be present in the throttle cable.

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Your welcome! Parts shipped out, hopefully you'll have Thursday. -Brian

Shouldn't be... the tranny oil capacity is more than 1 quart (1.8 US quarts to be exact).