2003LimitedBanshee

As long as the bike was jetted with that mix ratio, there is no reason to need to rejet. I run Golden Spectro at 48:1, can still see the hone marks on stock bore. I've been considering the switch to Amsoil at 80:1. Less oil = more power , as long as you have just enough to lube the cylinder wall and crank bearing you're good. 32:1 seems way to rich on oil, are you guys running petroleum based (not synthetic blends)? I know that is a common ratio around here, but I just can't imagine running that much oil. :shrug:

Really? I've been running my T5's for a year and a half and still have people asking me if they are brand new. After I wash down my bike I always dry and then steel wool (#0000) my pipes. Like I said, still look brand new. Do you ride in muddy spots? The only spot where I could see having problems is by the top pipe mount, maybe.

From my experience they are worth the extra money. When the V3's came out I thought it would make almost no difference. I already had the Boyesen PowerReeds which is a dual stage reed, but after riding a bike that was identical (to a tee at the time) except for the V3's, I went home and ordered a set the next week. Way better than the Boyesen's and I feel the Boyesen's made an improvement over stock. Yes the V3's are snap in, but I've yet to hear from someone who has had one fail, not saying it hasn't/can't. I have on the other hand heard from several people who have had the screws on their V2's back out. No experience with the Magic setup.

I made a ball joint separator quite easily using an drag racing style lug nut (one that goes full depth and open on both ends) and a spare bolt I had laying around. The lug nut will fit over one of the ball joints and the bolt jams against the other. Thread apart until you get some tension, then TAP it with a dead blow mallet. I've never had to beat the crap out of it once, just load it a bit and TAP. I've bent the stock a-arm several times at the ball joint mount, so I've got the a-arm switch down to about 12 minutes. Works like a charm!

Looking for some porting tools. Foredom or CC Specialty Flex Shaft motor, 44T handpiece and No. 1 MC right angle handpiece. Someone has to know somebody looking to get rid of some tools. I am going to delve into porting my cylinders and figured I might as well go full boat!

Most likely yes. If you scatter it at high RPM's you could potentially scrap the whole thing. Like said above, depends on your luck. For the $55 or so (if I remember right?) plus some time in splitting the cases, I wouldn't chance it. :baseball_bat:

I ended up going with an '06 YFZ 450 taillight, that I fabbed a bracket for. It's clear with Red LED's and looks bitchin' in my opinion. I got mine of eBay for like $50 or so, had the aluminum already so all I had to do was design a template for the bracket.

I don't mean to be an ass at all, and I don't want to hijack this thread, but I don't suppose you would be willing to share some insight on port durations that you've found success with. (PM?) I will be porting my cylinders soon (using RaceLogic stage III's as a base, but some alterations to the standard), and would really love to hear what works. I've done quite a bit of reading/research on port-time area's, exhaust durations, blowdown, etc. so the concepts are making sense, but haven't ported a shee before, so don't know what kind of figures they like. Thanks! (sorry? in case I hijacked).

The brand name tool you are talking about is a UNI-Sync, at like the eBay link says it was made for multiple carb engines, most commonly VW's. And they most certainly take all the guessing out of it. It essentially measures the flow of air into the carb, and if your slides are not sync'd you'll see that variation. You know, TORS isn't really that bad of a system as it gets a rap for. I ran my TORS for several years with no problem. The only reason why I ditched it was because the tops made it inconvenient when I re-jetted, and now it is much cleaner in there.

The best way to do this is to first drain your coolant. I did this by pulling the plugs on the side of each cylinder. Then refill the system with straight water. Run for a bit, drain, refill with water, drain. I did this three times if I remember right to make sure the system should have been fully flushed. Obviously drain, then refill with engine ice. I wouldn't recommend mixing the engine ice with regular prestone (don't know that it would hurt anything but...), but the main point they are making is that it already comes premixed, ready to run, so they don't want people mixing it 50/50 with water.

First, O-rings are the sealing method of choice in high compression engines. My experience in high compression engines comes from supercharged small block chevy applications, and at high cylinder pressures, standard cylinder head gaskets will start to be pushed out. The next step (and it is expensive, is to have the block and heads milled for O-rings. So, yes they will take the pressure, heat etc. fine. Obviously at some point they will need to be serviced, but they should hold up for some time. As David mentioned, you will definitely want to run race gas with those domes. Is your bike ported, as that will help to lower your cylinder pressures. But, FYI I am running 20cc domes on my unported bike, and it pumped out 175 psi at 1965' elevation (guesstimate near 190 psi range at sea level). And Glamis, although I've yet to ride there, is below sea level I believe. You'll probably want to get your crank welded soon so that you don't scatter it. I've haven't done mine yet, but I've only got one trip to the dunes on it, with one more planned before I port my cylinders and I'm welding mine up at that point. You're going to love that head, I couldn't believe how much it improved the bottom end on mine!

No complaints here. Installed at the end of last year with the TORS removal system. As with any cable item, keep it lubed up and it should treat you well.

Don't know what happened here, but the templates are on eBay right now for $59.95+$10 shipping. Still $20 less than retail on RL's site. So, gonna try them out, but I've heard not to go as wide as the template makes. Template outline is near 80% of bore from what I've heard. Also, looking at the Foredom right angle attachment for the flex shaft motor, anybody, PROS - CONS? Heard the dremel right angle won't fit, plus I'd rather have the right tools. (Let the send your cylinders out comments begin).

Man you guys are getting raped for race gas! Now I'm not comapring to the AV Gas price because it's much lower, but also in octane too. I run Trick 116, and I pay $5.45/gallon when you buy it by the drum. $5.85 if you want it pumped in quantities smaller. But $12+/gallon for 5 gallons!! And, not to beat a dead horse, but like some have said, high octane fuel does not increase the power of an engine by itself. It enables you to do other mods (ie. timing, compression) that you would not be capable of doing/having your engine survive if you did not have the added octane (resistance to pre-ignition).

Like Eastcoast said, it is the ratio of how many revolutions the front sprocket makes for every one revolution the rear sprocket makes. The bigger the number the more mechanical advantage the engine has, and the lower the gear ratio. This doesn't truly give the bike anymore bottom end, what it does is give it more advantage, which will make it better out of the hole. Think 1/4 mile drag race vs. Bonneville salt flats. Drags run much lower ratios so they come out fast, but they peak very fast too. Salt flat cars have to be pushed in most cases because they have such high gear ratios but they pull forever.

I've actually found that most local shops in my area are about the same price on main jets. DO NOT buy a "jet kit", they are just a way to get you to pay way to much for a very small range of jets that you can buy yourself. To determine if and how much you will need to rejet we need to know a few things. Are you planning on doing any new mods before the trip? If so what... What temperature/elevation/humidity changes will you likely see? Based on this we can tell you if you'll need to rejet. Basic idea: Temp/elevation/humidity up ---> Jet down (amount of change tells you how much) Temp/elevation/humidity down ---> Jet up Or a mix depending on factors.....

Totally agree. With the 9 haulers I get just a bit of wheelspin. But like he said, if it hooks completely it's 100% nose up. When I drag in the sand, we have about a 10 ft downhill birm that we launch from and most of the time it hangs the front end for that length, but if it bites, you have to back out and by that point you've already lost. My next investment is going to have to be an extended swinger after I port my cylinders, otherwise you won't be able to get far enough in front of the bars to keep it down.

Wow, someone that has done their homework. Lots on here, say "So it doesn't mess up my radio." like a bunch of morons. Luckily, no one in this post did. You're right that the plugs are a double safety to help fight interference with the CDI. Now, the stock wires are resistor wires unless I'm badly mistaken so you can get away with running non-resistor plugs. Do you know if the Nology wires are resistor wires? I'm guessing they must be if they recommend a non-resistor plug.

Depending on what your sand composition is like (loose, packed etc.) you should be able to pull a 9 Paddle Hauler no sweat. You can look in my mods and see what I've done in comparison (will be ported soon!), and I run a 9 paddle hauler. I plan on switching up to a 9 extreme when I port my bike. I don't think you should be over-paddled with the nines, tens possibly though.

WTF??

Ported, hands down is the difference. Plus, no offense but you've basically got T6's going for you performance wise (plus the VForce 3's, but minimal). Those big carbs should be making little to no difference, in fact quite possibly hurting the performance, assuming you are running duals (pwks). Until, you allow that motor to breathe more, stock carbs will run strong, and there is no need for that big of a carb. A friend of mine who works at the local stealership put together a bike for his wife that turned out 82 HP on 2mm overbored stock carbs (28mm total). Plus, are you sure that is all he was running. Even if it was, I would expect to get beat, but he may have been running some additional timing, shaved head... some sort of coolhead? My guess is that if he has had it ported he's probably farther into the bike than it may have first appeared.

See above! I don't know that I would claim triple your horsepower, but you could conceivably take a bike from upper 40's to mid 50's into the 70's. Like I said, it isn't that there is $300-600 in physical work. It's called intellectual property. They have knowledge that most don't, and unless you want to go at it blindly yourself, you're going to pay for it.

Knowledge, pure and simple. Not everyone knows what specifications a port job should conform to. How much do you open up the ports? How does that affect flow and flow velocity. How does it change the port timing? Where can you make small alterations and gain 2 HP? I by no means understand even a good deal, compared to the true builders (by profession) on here, but you are paying for the fact that they no the answers to these questions, and most don't. Also, to have the correct tools for 100% proper porting it costs a fair amount. I have to believe though that with a firm mechanical knowledge a person could port close to a good builder, but it will likely take 10 times the time, to make sure that you do it right. I plan on doing my own, with some help from RaceLogic templates, and then some tinkering from there. But you have to have the knowlodge, or take the time to fully understand what most builders already know.

The CDI shouldn't be unplugged, but are you sure you aren't looking at the TORS module? It's to the "driver's" side of the ignition coil (triangular in shape). It sounds like they may have removed part of the TORS system but something is missing. Have you run this bike, or did you just get it and swap the plate before firing it?

These ratios are almost identical, however the 13/41 is actually lower at 3.15:1 vs 3.14:1 on the 14/44. Either way, you are absolutely right that you'll notice a big difference going with the 13/41 versus stock. But if you really want to pull a low gear, 13/44 will get you pretty close to the 3.5:1 that the 12/42 would get you, and be easier on parts in general.