2003LimitedBanshee

In my opinion you would be wasting your money to go with a 42 tooth on the back. You won't notice nearly as much adding a tooth on the back as you would dropping a tooth in the front. It's the same idea as gearing in a car... it's all about the ratio of front to back. Like stclark816 said, dropping one tooth in the front is the same as adding 3-4 teeth in the back, but you shouldn't have to add, or in this case drop any links if you change the front. If I recall you usually have to add a link if you go up by a comparable amount (3-4) in the back. The basic idea is less teeth in the front is the same as more in the back. This gives you "shorter" gears, quicker acceleration, but you'll top out sooner and lose some top end MPH. It will help you out for hill climbing, tight trails etc. More teeth in the front, or less in the back will give you "taller" gears. You'll come out of the hole slower, but you'll have more top end MPH. Since you mentioned 13/42 I assume you're looking for quicker acceleration , and not as concerned with the top end speeds. If so the first move I would make is to go to a 13 in the front, and then you can fine tune by adding teeth in the back if you want a little more acceleration (more teeth in back) or a little more top end (fewer teeth). Hope this helps you!

When you say it is shooting black oil... do you actually mean oil? or is it black smoke? If the pipes/silencers are stock, I remember that my bike would get an oily buildup just inside of the silencer tip. You could also be running to rich of a ratio on your oil mix. What type of oil and at what ratio do you mix?

Depending on your elevation (would help to know), I would guess you will probably be in the 240 range, with the stock pipes installed. The old standby way to get in the ballpark is to go up until it blubbers, then come back down one size. This will get you pretty darn close. From there you can start to analyze the plugs, and maybe come down a little more from the jet that is one below blubbering. You can make more power if you can lean it out a little. But obviously, just a little too lean and it'll all be over a lot quicker. Once you get your T5's back I would guess you'll be somewhere in the low 300's on the mains. With T5's, the Toomey 2:1, reeds, and some basic intake polishing, I run in the 320-340 range, depending on temp and elevation (anywhere from sea level to 4000' depending on the ride). Chances are you'll end up above the 280 that Toomey says is ideal, pretty much everyone I've talked to does.

I can't speak for the Rocket pipes, but I'll throw in my 2 cents on the T5's. I've been running these for a while, and in my opinion they are little pipey for the trails I ride in. I've upgraded to Boyesen reeds, but haven't yet done the V-Force's, which I've heard clean up the midrange a fair amount. But I ride out in southern oregon, where the trails are more mountain trails, so the harder on/off of the pipe makes it kind of interesting. But I don't know about the Rockets... I'm sure somebody out here will be able to tell you how they come on. The T5's rock for dunes, and lend themselves really well to mods down the road. Good Luck!

I agree... it sounds like the needle valve may not be fully seating, this is what actually opens and shuts to allow fuel into the float bowl of the carb. They are super sensitive to little (tiny) pieces of debris. Even if you have cleaned the majority of the carb really well, you may still have some junk under the seat of the valve, which would cause fuel to continue to flow to the carb float bowl. If you disassemble the carb, as was described earlier and thoroughly clean the needle valve area, I would be surprised if you didn't fix the problem. The needle valves aren't generally a part I would expect to see wear out, and need to be replaced. Keep in mind we are talking about a needle valve attached to the float mechanism, not your needle adjustment that attaches to the slide and moves within the main jet of the carb, but the needle in the float bowl. On jetting, 240 sounds way lean, unless you are at some significant altitude. 280 is probably a good place to start. What is your elevation and air temp? Also the 32.5 pilot sounds way big. You can see the small list of mods I've done in my signature, and I'm still on the stock 25 pilot. It runs fine at my house (2000' elevation) and I may or may not go up to a 27.5 pilot for running at sea level. As far as jetting goes, there is an easy way to check it out, although not as precise, still pretty good. As mentioned by others, I always like to check at WOT in 6th gear, because it provides the heaviest load. Simply, if it bogs at WOT throttle on the top end, you are too rich, go down a size... If it is still pulling hard all the way through, try going up on the main and see what you get. Even with little knowledge, checking the plugs while doing this can help. If it is pulling all the way through (you need to go up...) if you look at the plugs and they are really ghosty maybe jump a few sizes instead of one at a time. Sorry for the post length hope this helps!

It sounds like you may have a lean condition. Many times if the bike is lean it will take longer for the idle to return to normal. I suppose it is possible that the problems are connected, but I would also check for an air leak, which would cause the bike to lean out. You definitely want to address the fuel overflow, as you know, but it may or may not be the cause of the idle problem. Address the fuel, and if it fixes it great, otherwise you are lean for one reason or another.

From what I've heard and what I've seen, personally and with others, the T5's take more to porting etc than the T6's. With the T5's, a 2:1 filter/outwear (no airbox), Boyesen reeds (V-Force soon) I'm sitting right in the mid 50's for HP. Definitely keep in mind what the others said. Everyone talks HP, but it's so much more than that, but the HP is fun.

You should be really, really happy. You will probably feel like it is a 10 at first, but then you'll probably get used to it and want more. I would have probably gone with the T5's (what I've got), because they will work with additional mods much better. Toomey only recommends the T6's for stock engines. If I recall correctly stock Banshee's put out 35 HP at the crank and 29 HP to the tires. After doing the T5's, 2:1 UNI-filter, and Boyesen PowerReeds I'm in the mid 50 HP range at the tires. You could check out Toomey's site to see how they say the T6's stacked up. http://www.toomey.com/image/FMF_lg.jpg Looks like you should be in the same range. You'll be really happy, but a word of caution on jetting, check it out, because my bike and others I've heard from, wanted more main jet, than the 280's Toomey sent.

I'm going to have to agree with taking the Toomey guidelines with a grain of salt. Don't get me wrong I have been extremely happy with my T5's, for the couple months I have owned them. However, I am still working on getting the jetting right. I bought the T5's with the 2:1 Foam filter setup... 280's are supposed to ideal, but I am on 300's right now, and I just did a plug check, pretty ghosty (2000' elevation, approx 75 deg. at time of check). I am going to agree that you will probably end up in the 300 to 310 range with no snorkel, but the best advice is to jet it, run it, check it, and repeat as necessary. Every bike is different, and just because one thing works for someone else, doesn't mean it will for you. I haven't done the timing plate on my bike yet (soon to come), but from what I've heard you should definitely check the jetting after that as well.

Okay so I have been reading around and seems like maybe I am still a bit small on my mains. I haven't noticed much for bog on WOT. I know the old stand by was go up until it bogs then come down one. But I was also thinking that when I rode it this morning it was in the upper 70's, now it's 102, so it won't be much good to go and doing any testing right now. The more I read the more I think I might need to go bigger still on the mains. Maybe even bigger, up from stock, on the pilots, but like I said the choke trick in the low RPM range didn't seem to help so it seems that it is slightly fat. Within reason can I compensate for a potentially small pilot by taking the air screws in a 1/4 or something. I plan on buying an assortment of jets, but I don't want to sit down and order the completely wrong range. Thanks again...

I just ordered up and put a set of T5's on my '03 Limited. Now I'm running with a set of 280 Dynojet mains, and Dynojet needles. I'm running a new Uni filter, the T5's and Toomey Silencers. I also put in a set of Boyesen PowerReeds in as well. From the literature that Toomey provides this is supposed to be the "ideal" jetting. It seems to run real hard on the top end, but I think I need to drop (lean) the needle one groove as it seems a tiny bit fat at part throttle. Boyesen says that this is fairly common. I was just wondering if this jetting sounds pretty reasonable to everyone. I haven't done anything with the pilots. Since it seems a little fat it doesn't seem like I need to go bigger (pulling the choke one click only made it worse). I'm at about 2000' at home, but ride mostly at the dunes on the Oregon Coast (basically sea level). Any input appreciated; let me know if I need to give more info. Thanks