2003LimitedBanshee

As far as motor mods are concerned you guys are just about even from everything I can see. Don't get me wrong you got a lot of other cool shit, but motor wise it's pretty equal. Still I agree the T5's should work good for a while longer. If you go with a big time drag port etc. etc. like ellison said you should see more top end with the CPI's.

Not your fault but this should be a can of worms, with the stock vs. Dynojet needle. I run the Dynojet needles, with no problem and prefer them to stock. Some people will likely tell you to ditch the Dynojet's and switch back to stock. You should be pretty close at the 4th clip. It's standard for the plugs to be darker when running part throttle. How light were the plugs after you ran it WOT for 5-10 seconds? You should be shooting for a light chocolate milk color (tan-ish). Grey/brown is a little light, dark chocolate is too rich...

From your other post..... He's pretty close here. The main might need to go to a 330. From past situations it seems that the FMF pipes don't like quite as big of a main as say T5's. But I also recall that they typically like a little bigger pilot. So you'd probably be real close at 320-330 on the main, 27.5 pilot around 1-1.5 turns, and stock needle probably on the 3rd (maybe 4th) clip.

Sorry, should have read your sig. and I could have seen that you weren't running a lid... Well, with all that said, I guess I would say if it wants more main, give it to it. Are your plugs light? With your head, it shouldn't affect the jetting, but likely octane requirement only. Like I said, if it wants it, give it some more. You're right to want to get rid of the popping, as it sounds lean, and they don't like that too long.

Because he already has T5's and is thinking of switching to CPI's.

Okay that was what I was thinking too. The Elka rep I was talking with said that the Rec level Dune edition with piggyback ressie was $715, so for a little more than $500 I'll be getting the +2W +1 Arms, tie rods, and braided lines. Does anyone see a need to upgrade to the Sport or Elite series so that I can have adjustable compression/rebound? I ride the dunes exclusively, fairly seriously, but not a full-fledged desert racer or anything. Sorry for the questions, if it's an engine, pipe etc. question I've got that dialed, but suspesion setups are new on me. Oh yeah, and I've heard that it is fairly liveable to simply get the stock rear shock revalved (maybe resprung) for riding the dunes, as opposed to getting a different rear absorber setup entirely?

Well based on your location and my guess of your elevation/air temp. I can't imagine you should be lean due to the main jet size. Are you running without a lid on the airbox? Even with that I would guess that you would be close, but probably a bit fat with 330's. Fatter still if you are running a lid or modded lid on the airbox. If it truly is a popping condition you're likely running lean. But with that jetting, it would lead me to believe that you may have an airleak somewhere. Have you tried the carb cleaner trick to search for air leaks? Something obviously isn't right, but it makes it a little more odd since it runs great up to WOT.

A little bit of a hijack here, but it is along the same exact lines. I talked with Alba and Elka, and found that you can get their arms with the Elka dunes edition shocks. After talking with Elka the rep told me that the Dunes Edition used the rec body, different spring setup and valving. But more or less it is the Rec edition with a piggyback, plus the spring/valving diffs. Has anyone run the Alba arms? As I understand they are setup to run with Laeger ball joints, and don't require you to reem the spindles. After more talks with Alba I found you could get the Arms, tie rods, braided brake lines and the Dunes edition with piggybacks for $1250. This sounds like a smoking deal, am I missing anything?

If it acts as though it is loading up, then it sounds like your main is too big. Does it sputter and Pop, or will it not "clean" out? If it is a popping type sputter, then you likely need to go up on the main.

I've heard and seen (not on my own bike) that the PC's have fairly crappy chrome. You could try some #00 steel wool (or finer, I prefer #0000). I use it dry, because of the fine mesh, it won't scratch your pipes, guaranteed. If you just cant keep them shined up, I would find a coater, who can ceramic coat them for you. Polish just had some done (CPI's if I remember right) and they turned out looking amazing. I plan on doing this once the chrome on my T5's gives up, but they are still going strong after a year and a half plus. Had a guy (with PC's funny enough) ask me if my pipes were brand new, my last trip to the dunes. Come to find out, his pipes were newer than mine, and looked like shit.

I agree with that call on the main. I'm running 340 mains at sea level, 60 degrees, with the other mods in my signature on a stock port. You may be slightly fat, but I would suspect you would be lean at anything around 340. Like the others have said, I would definitely think you should bump the pilot up on, after doing that you may find that the 3rd clip is good for you. I've run the Toomey needle ever since I installed my pipes, and have had no problems getting it dialed in.

I've haven't run both setups on a dyno to see, but somebody probably has. I believe the bench racing puts it at about 2-3 HP, but I can't say I've measured it personally. It is definitely noticeable, and well worth the $35 dollars.

Most people will run 2-4 degrees advance on a stock port. With a more aggressive port I've heard of guys running as much as 7-8 degrees advance. I personally cut in some Trick 116 race fuel for running 4 degrees just to be on the safe side. The plates are adjustable without removing the flywheel.

Better check BigRed's For Sale post ASAP. Got a set of stock intakes for $15 (?) shipped.

This is kind of a typical response I've seen on here, 98% of people will give you a or or when you mention a boost bottle. But my opinion is that most are repeating what they heard when they first joined the BHQ (new or old). Do I think mine gave me 5 HP more or even 1 HP more, probably not. Will I agree with sparkdic and say I noticed an improvement in throttle response, yes. Back when I got my boost bottle, my father and I had the exact same setup (to a "T", pipes, filter jets everything), and I had somewhat crisper throttle response after the boost bottle. Chase or countless others will give the typical after this post. But hey, pick one up for $30, see if it makes a difference for you, and if it doesn't or you don't like it whatever, sell it to someone else for $25. For every person who says they are crap, they'll always be at least one person who will buy it off you.

Okay I'll play devil's advocate here and say run it if you want. Now, if I bought a bike that already had it removed would I reinstall it? NO, but I can say that I use my parking brake from time to time just to be safe. It takes about a minute and half to adjust your parking brake (at least that's how long it takes me). If I was worried about the 10 oz of weight from my parking brake I'll take a piss before I go ride and dump the water weight. True, if you're running a drag car, or drag banshee for that matter, weight is horsepower, but if you're just a very serious rec rider, you will never notice the extra 10 oz.

Definitely a lot of what they said. Check that key for sure (upgrade to a Ricky Stator adjustable plate next just my $.02). However, I would not recommend going smaller unless you like welded pistons, or if you're at high elevations or very hot. I am running T5's with the Toomey (UNI) 2:1 filter setup, and I run 340's, stock pilot with .5 turn on the air screws and 4th clip on the Toomey (Dynojet) needle. This is my setup when I ride the dunes at sea level approx 55-60 degrees. If your plugs have a nice chocolate milk brown color then I guess you can't argue with that, but I would guess you should be significantly higher on the main, unless elevation or temp differences come into play. Even at elevation I would guess you should be at least 300 on the main. That filter system draws much more air than the stock box could ever dream of. If the bike simply acts as though it doesn't want to rev you could definitely be looking at a timing issue, but this can be a sign of a lean condition also (think about how your bike acts if you've run out of gas). Generally if people are too big on the main they will describe it as not wanting to "clean out", but if they're small its as though the bike won't build RPM. edit: With those pipes/filter and the timing to boot, you should be giving that 450r all it can handle, and most likely wiping him up. What does "basically" stock mean? Both the Honda and Yamaha 450's are real quick out of the box. Don't want to start a pissing match, but, IMO it takes a piped/filtered and probably timing advanced Banshee to run competively with those damn 450's piped.

I wouldn't recommend running any oil in your crankcase. Now in your tranny, I personaly run Havoline 10-30 Full Synthetic. I've heard many say don't run Synthetic motor oils, they will affect the clutch life. But I've run it for some time now with no problems at all. On stock compression, I set my BR8ES's at .030 on the gap, factory recommendation is anywhere between .028-.032 I would probably just spring for a can of foam filter oil. Really you should upgrade the stock filter system if you haven't already. You can pick up a UNI "service kit", which includes foam filter cleaner and oil for like $12 at most motorcycle shops. Lasts many, many uses. Be careful with soap and water, as it could leave some residue. Dawn dish soap is good for breaking down oils, but make sure you rinse really, really well if you decide to go this route.

With the stock reed cage and intake boot removed, bolt them together with the supplied hardware (I just bolted together at the top, with the washer in between the boot and stock reed cage. The washer serves as a spacer to allow enough room for a hacksaw blade. Then simply cut off the rubber area of the intake that would normally protrude into the stock reed cage, so that your VForces will bolt up flush with the intake boots. After cutting the intakes I finished of the intake with an air mini belt sander that I have to smooth out the transition, and make sure that the intake was perfectly flat on the mating surface.

I haven't run these, but I've heard a couple bikes running these silencers. I guess I would put them as kind of a mix of stock pipes and Toomey silencers. I can't imagine you having a problem with Forest Service as far as noise level, but I don't remember if they're spark arrested or not.

I wouldn't think so, but ?? Like I say, if it isn't jumping up a bunch, and it goes down when you push the choke in, I think this is just normal. My bike has always done this. If you think about starting a carbureted car on a cold morning it has a fast idle setting until it warms up and the choke backs off. Now part of this has to do with some additional car carb features (fast idle cam), but it is in part due to the rich, choked fuel mixture. My $.02 is that you're fine.

If the throttle sticks and you have to hit it with the palm of your hand to free it, I would bet you need to replace the cable. It would make since that it sputters if you still have TORS, as the TORS would cut the ignition. If the cable locks up in the sheath, but you let off the thumb throttle the TORS will detect the difference in slide position (still open because cable is hung) and the thumb throttle position (closed now), and it will cut the ignition. You could try lubing the throttle cable, but likely you've past that point and it simply needs to be replaced. I would not suggest disconnecting your TORS yet, as it is probably the reason you have not had a more interesting ride. If you really want to clean up the carb area and electrical, order a TORS removal kit. You'll get a new cable, carb tops and idle screws. Just remember if you do this and the throttle sticks just kill the run switch. After all of that, if you've already removed the TORS, sounds like you still need to replace the cable, but doesn't really answer the sputtering.

$15+the ride? I've got everything except for the rubber grommet mounts. I swiped those for the bracket I made to mount my YFZ LED light to.

I got one off my '03 that I just took off. Swapped to an '06 YFZ LED taillight. This doesn't really sound like what you're looking for, but I got it if you're interested.

Are you looking for carb tops/cable for the TORS tops, or non-TORS. I got a set of TORS tops and cable I took off about a month ago, if you want them. I assume you're looking for non-TORS though.