2003LimitedBanshee

In theory there shouldn't be anything wrong with running 7's if you're not experiencing detonation. However, I would ask if you've done a WOT plug check with the 8's on your current jetting? I would be willing to bet that your plugs may be very dark.

Wow, only the 683,000th time I've heard that one around here lately. To answer your question, if your bike doesn't already have them, the first upgrade should be a good set of pipes. To determine what might be best you need to think about what kind of riding you will be doing. Next upgrade your filtration system, either by upgrading your box with a Pro Flow and K&N or ditch the box all together if you won't be riding in watery conditions. Porting, cool heads, like everyone has already said. Timing plate, so you can throw a few degrees of advance at it. Reeds, carbs or carb work etc. etc. etc. etc. You'll find once you start doing a little, if you're like most of us, you just can't stop.

Yeah I wish I had a closeup picture of mine. What I am trying to describe is that the TM case saver basically fills the space in front of above and below the sprocket to lock against case front to back and top to bottom. You actually remove the front sprocket and it fits over the output shaft, as well as bolting up with the three screws. It essentially makes it to where it is impossible for the chain to wad up and expand breaking the case, because the load is distributed over 270 degrees.

Assuming the left cylinder has spark, you need to look at fuel next. It runs now correct, but your losing the left cylinder? At idle, midrange top? You could have a plug pilot on the left carb, or it could be a couple other things. Guess we need to know exactly where you're at with it right now...

Leak down testing will work fine too, and is probably the most accurate way to check, but in a bind you can check the left seal this way.

The first question that comes to mind if the elevations are about the same, what is the temperature difference. Is it a decent amount warmer at Pismo (sorry from Oregon so don't know)? If it is warmer, or also more humid, it could cause your bike to be fat (rich), leading to the fouled plugs. Now, by running hotter plugs more heat is obviously retained in the plug, so fuel buildup is reduced and fouling is resisted. However, you increase your chances for PING (pre-ignition) by running the hotter plug. If the answer to the first couple questions is yes, really what you should do is jet down, as opposed to running a hotter plug.

Cool, and we definitely agree there is no logical reason to run without them.

I personally really like the TM Designworks case saver (it's what I run). I believe it is a plastic composite, plus it has a design that "locks" it into the output shaft area, as opposed to most of the metal savers. This would allow it to spread the load from a broken chain. My $.02

The tubes are exactly as they should be. Only the left carb has the brass tube in the float bowl, the choke "signal" is passed from the left carb to the right, by your rubber choke line that runs between the carbs. I believe all of this is completely normal. My bike does the exact same thing for about 5 seconds, but then will act as if it would load up if you didn't increase the idle speed. The momentary increase in RPM is likely due to the rich fuel mixture, due to the choke being pulled. Does your bike smoke out the tailpipes after it is warmed up? Mine generally smokes just a bit more out of the right side tailpipe at startup, but once warmed up it doesn't smoke at all. Also the left side crank seal would cause an air leak (obviously) so you should be able to check it out real quick by pulling your stator cover and spraying some carb cleaner in behind the flywheel. The right side crank seal would draw oil from the tranny and cause a significant amount of smoke, in theory, more when you get on the gas hard.

To give you some credit I hadn't thought about the flow characteristics with burnt up packing. However, I hope the rest of the two-cycle theory/operation wasn't for my benefit. Also, I do all my own wrenching so I have repacked silencers many a time. Notice that I said it would make a very small difference (read almost/if not undetectable).

If you've got a TORS eliminator kit, tops, idle screws etc, then you can remove this switch. It is a microswitch that helps the TORS unit verify if the throttle (at the thumb switch) is either closed or open, it can then compare it to the slide position and shut down the ignition if it detects a mismatch. However, if you've got a TORS elim kit, but you have this condition, it sounds like you must not have removed all the TORS system. If you replaced the tops, it would not have the sensors to determine slide position, and could thus be disabling the spark. Did you unplug the black box, across from the coil, parking brake connection (looks like a cigarette lighter plug), and your thumb throttle switch. Oh and when you remove the thumb throttle switch I would recommend splitting the rubber grommet with a utility knife or razor blade, sealing the hole left with some black RTV silicone, and reinstall it. Good luck

If the packing is "worn out" (burnt up) it is closer to no silencer than with a fresh pack. So why would you expect it wouldn't affect it without silencers, but silencers with less pack needing a repack would affect it to a noticeable amount. I would guess that you might gain a bit on the top (very small) and lose some on the bottom, plus definitely increase your chances of drawing the wrong kind of attention. Like loco said, why?

There isn't really a need to "flush" the tranny side of the case, unless you are worried about contaminents if you're splitting the cases. The crankcase and tranny do not share any oil, so even if you scattered a piston none of this should be able to make it to the tranny unless you've got other, BIG problems. As the others have said, I doubt the impellar had anything to do with the hole in the piston. Most likely an air leak.

That does sound really big on your pilot; I would probably drop that back. I was running a 27.5, with 1.75 turns out on the air screw, but switched back to the stock pilot (25) with .5 turns out on the air screw and noticed much improved throttle response. Also, if you're running one aftermarket needle, it may be hard to get your midrange jetted properly, because likely the aftermarket needle is a different design than the stock needle. As far as the main is concerned, the primary difference is because you still have the airbox with the lid removed. I have completely eliminated the airbox, running a Toomey (Uni) 2:1 filter assembly, which will flow a decent amount more air than an airbox with the lid removed, ie. bigger main.

I believe 2002 was the first year for brakelights. Think 2001 was the last year without, but can't remember, maybe first year. It's either 2001 or 2002, so for sure 2002 or later would have the brakelight. As far as wiring goes (not sure mine's '03 so didn't have to bother) you should need the switch that attaches to the rear brake pedal and the wiring to go to the front brake lever, and I believe you would need to run one additional wire to the back for the 2nd leg of the circuit, plus of course switch to a dual filament bulb. But I could be all wet.

I don't know, but I doubt it. Banshees seem to hold their value really well on the west coast. If it really is super clean, and looks as though it has the low hours you claim it does, I would think you could probably sell it for $3500+. Retail is $3505 on kbb.com so with pipes and real low hours...

Thanks! I didn't realize that. I just knew that newer bikes had it, and all the older bikes I was around already had it gone of course. Didn't take the time to crack my Clymer's for reference.

I can't think why it would cause it to handle akwardly. However, my personal preference would be to (this is what I did) pick up some rears and paddles, and leave the front stock for now. For riding in the sand I think you'll find that you do a great deal of the turning with your right thumb and body position. Just my personal $.02 preference.

I've never owned Foakleys either, but had a few friends that picked some up in Mexico. Looked pretty close, til they started breaking, fit like shit etc. Unfortunately racing, many people don't want to spend good money on a very quality set of shades. If I didn't already have a set of Twenty's I'd be tempted. Bump!

With your air screws out 1.5 turns you could try turning those in to maybe .5 turn, and see if that helps your starting problem. It should help, but if FMF recommends a 30 pilot, it shouldn't completely fix it. However, it is odd that FMF recommends such a large pilot, yet you say you are having a problem with it being flooded. I wouldn't recommend the torch trick for trying to "unflood" it, just asking for trouble. If it is truly flooded, you could try holding the throttle wide open when you're kicking it over. This will allow alot more air in, but will not allow much more fuel, because you will not have the velocity required to pull air through the main jet. If it tries to start just be ready to let loose of the throttle so you don't run it sky high right off the bat. Your float needle/seat could be worn out and not allowing it to seat properly causing the fuel to leak from the float bowl line. However, I would try removing the carb and float bowl, and spray some carb cleaner through the fuel inlet on the carb. This should clear out any junk if you have some grit in there.

I would jump to around a 320 or so for starters. I have a friend with the same mods (jetting affecting mods I should say) that I jetted, and ended up at 330. I run 340's. I would say probably a minimum of 3 jet sizes, but more likely 4 or 5 sizes. What elevation/temps are you running?

For the most part it's probably in the ball park, but quite possibly a bit small. What other mods have you done? What kind of air temps will you be running in. To give you an idea, I have my mods and jetting listed in my sig, jetted for sea level with about 60-65 degree temps.

Contrary to popular belief I noticed a small difference in throttle response after installing mine. I don't believe it makes any more power with the boost bottle, but throttle response may improve. My $.02

I am running the Toomey 2:1 and as with any open element filter, it is a great way to make a bit more power. However, recognize that the filter does not create a source for a leaning air leak. It could allow unfiltered air to enter the engine, but a leaning air leak occurs after the carbs. When air enters the carb, a specific amount of fuel is added to that air to provide the correct air/fuel ratio. An air leak after the carbs adds more air, causing a lean air/fuel mix.

Yeah, from what I've found I can pop the front end up very easily with my 13 tooth... But, you have to work to keep the balance right and ride it out. The 13 tooth makes it more "jerky", so the front end pulls up more abruptly.