2003LimitedBanshee

PM sent. See the modification list in my signature, referenced in the PM. Thanks!

Usually about 12 is as small as they go in the front. According to RMATV, if you go with Renthal 42 is as big as you can go in the rear, but they had up to 46 if you ran Primary Drive (kinda cheap from what it seems).

Dang! You beat me to it... My guess where your problem lies too.

What's your compression at that elevation though? I would bet at that elevation, plus your porting actual compression psi is probably in the same neighborhood (maybe lower?) as mine. I know mine kicked back at me when I went to try and be nice, not thinking about it one start. That's enough to make you real serious about being firm and decisive when kicking it over!

In theory they are the same head. They both allow for interchangable domes that allow you to alter the compression. NOSS is more or less a brand name of a type of "Coolhead", but I would stop the comparisons at that point. The engineering in the NOSS head is second to none in my opinion. Also, as mentioned you can run the stock head studs with the NOSS (a big time saver/convenience), plus you can downplay the presence by going with a Black Anodized head (polished is overdone in my opinion). After I put my head on, several people looked at my bike for a good bit of time before even realizing I had an aftermarket head.

Chase is right, you can save a decent amount of money having the stock head milled, BUT... If you go with a NOSS head like others have said you can change domes as your mods change. Plus, if you look at a disassembled NOSS head, it's no wonder why you get far better cooling than a stock head could ever dream of. I just traded up about a month ago, and I wish I would have done it a year ago! The heads are awesome, you'll get a serious bump on the bottom end. I went with 20cc domes, and I was kicking over 170 psi at 1980' elevation (that means bumping 190 at sea level), and that was with a Snap-On Compression tester (so it's accurate). The only downside to milling or going with an aftermarket head is the possibility of needing race gas. I now run 100% race, but if you've spent a couple thousand plus on extras, what's a few more $/gallon? Do it, and I guarantee you'll be very satisfied. Like others have said, David is a super-nice guy, and there was a decent discount for HQ members on top of everything!! :thumb:

The intakes appear to be fine, maybe could have slimmed down the bridge a bit more, but probably wouldn't have made any noticeable difference. But, what about the exhaust and transfers? That seems to be where the magic happens...

I suppose banshee04le's method would work... Essentially, you want to take it easy on the clutch for the first bit after installing it. If you don't the fibers on the friction plates can "glass over", essentially burn and glaze. In addition you can hot spot the steels as well. This is what causes your clutch to slip. Once you start a clutch "hot spotting" you're basically screwed. You could almost think of it like seating a new set of rings. If you take off and start ripping on a brand new set of rings, good luck getting them to seat. Same theory on the clutch. Also, most people will soak their plates in oil overnight before installing them. Believe me, you do need to break in clutches. I've put several clutches in tow rigs, only to have my stupid friends drive them a half an hour and then hitch up to a loaded stock trailer. A month and half later, they're back saying the clutch seems to be slipping, same principle on the banshee. So, short story, take it easy on the new clutch, heat cycle it (slowly bring it up to operating temp, nicely) before jumping it hard.

All the lockup clutch systems I have seen have a set of counterweights on them that apply more more pressure as the RPM increases. If you are putting a brand new clutch in, riding it at the dunes and burning it up in a day, that's actually not that hard to believe. You need to break-in a new clutch otherwise you will likely overheat the plates and steels right away and it just goes downhill from there. My guess is that this is where your problem lies. If you're running good aftermarket springs/plates/steels (Barnett would be fine in my book), you should be able to put down some pretty serious power before needing a lockup clutch system. Since you've already popped for the lockup system you might as well put it on, but make sure to break it in, or you'll be broken down in no time at all... again.

Sorry can't contribute on this subject as I don't run the Hush Kit, but... I did want to add that most race gas is more stable (longer lasting) than pump gas. The Trick 116 I run is stable in the barrel for at least the majority of a year.

If you move the clip down one, effectively raising the needle you are not allowing more AIR, you are allowing more FUEL. So if you have a rich condition in the midrange, you will be worsening this condition. You've actually started to diagnose the problem yourself. You mention that your bog (whether it is lean or rich) is at 0 - 1/4 throttle. This is typically consider the pilot jet range, starting into the midrange (needle). Although I am at a slightly lower elevation 2000', I run my air screws at .5 turns out. Air screw turns are referenced from fully seated, all the way to the right if you were wondering. My guess is that you are slightly lean on the pilot jet, but likely fixable by adjusting the air screws in. Warm the bike, and slowly adjust both carb air screws in until you find the optimal throttle response. Did you install the Toomey (Dynojet) needles when you switched over? If so, I would try around the 3rd clip from the top (of a total 6 on the Dynojet needle). And last for now, if you installed the 2:1 UNI system you will need a bigger main than the 280's Toomey supplies. As great a pipes as they are, you cannot run the same main jets with a modded airbox as with no airbox. I would try around a 310 with your elevation and air temps. Wow that got long... good luck! :beer:

Exactly! Some guy posted about these not that long ago, and I said the exact same thing. It's also kind of like the "fuel economy" gauges they had back in the seventies. All it was was a vacuum gauge that told morons when they were stomping on the gas, to let off. Gimmick...

I'm ordering up a new rear sprocket (old one is HOSED!, went to the coast for 4 days and started rounding teeth on the rear sprocket, like a wave shape), and I figured might as well drop another $80+ bucks and pick up a DID X-Ring. But I need to know what the stock chain link count is, and I'm hoping someone can save me the counting. Also I swapped out to a 13 tooth front quite a while back, do you think I can run one less link than stock? I don't really like being near the end of my adjustment. On the rear sprocket I was going to run a Renthal steel, any thoughts?

I think you will be too big on the pilot at 30, but probably at 27.5 as well. I ran 27.5's for a while (at cooler temps too) and found I improved my throttle response off idle when I switched back to stock 25's.

Sounds to me like you have it too lean on the pilot circuit. Your air screws won't necessarily be at 2 turns, that is just a rule of thumb that gets tossed around. I have my air screws set at .5 turn out with stock (25) pilots. You need to jet your pilot/air screw as well as the mid (needle) and upper (main). Typically you'll do this by making small adjustments and seeing what gives you the best throttle response right off idle. As far as the smoke out the right side goes, is it just as the bike is warming up or after it is warmed up? My bike has always smoked slightly more out of the right pipe the first minute or two while warming up, but once it is starting to warm up (not even at operating temp yet) it all but stops smoking out of either pipe.

Have to agree with dajogejr. I would run full race gas just to be safe. That is what I run in my bike with slightly more compression (175 psi). He is also right about the flywheel and timing advance. I only wish I had the +6 swinger that you have, otherwise it's a wheels up ride!!

Your pilot will be way too lean at two turns on the stock pilot. I would go with the stock pilot, but you'll probably only want .5-1.25 at the very most on the air screw. Since you are running in the upper 80's to 90's probably around 350 or so on the main. We're you running with stock pipes on that dune port? Can't imagine, but maybe? I have to assume you were running pipes before, if so what pipes and what was your jetting at that time? Just re-thinking, you may want to go up to a 27.5 on the pilot with the port at around 1.5 turns on the air screws.

Sorry I don't have much of any experience with the airstrykers as far as which needle to go to. But you've got the general idea at least. Those of us who have got the jetting pretty good, most it isn't because we magically know what will work, it's because we start out and then make minor changes and see how it plays out. Go slightly leaner on the needle... hey that helped, maybe one clip leaner, nope worse. It's a science and also not, all at the same time. :biggrin:

Cool look man. I fabbed up a bracket, and mounted an '06 YFZ 450 taillight earlier this year. If you haven't already noticed, you're gonna love that light at night; they are brighter, plus instant on/off. As stupid as it sounds, I've actually had people stop me on the dunes at night to comment on my taillight. :shrug:

Realistically, it could be either. You can have both a lean bog or a rich bog. For starters I guess, what is your current jetting setup, pilots, needle/clip setting and mains? Midrange bogs are generally to do with the needle adjustment, but you have to realize that your main and pilot will have a residual effect on this setting. For instance, if you jump up 4 main sizes, your midrange is also now richer because the needle is sitting in a larger jet. The hard part about diagnosis this is that you usually read this by the seat of the pants, and or sound. Rich bog obviously is similar to pulling the choke out kinda falls on its face, where a lean bog is more a lack of the bike wanting to accelerate, a hesitation.

Looks to be a tad lean; but you are pretty close. I would go up one size on the main, paying attention to how it pulls and check the plugs then. Also, just an FYI, you can read a great deal off of the electrode, in addition you can usually get a bright flashlight to peer down inside without chopping a set of plugs. I have a workbench light that has a built in magnifying glass that I use. As far as the pilot is concerned, you can probably jet the 27.5 pretty good with around 2 turns out on the airscrew. However, I found that when I stepped back to the stock 25, with .5 turn out on the airscrew, I had been missing out on some throttle response. If you have a UNI-syn, this is the best tool, however you can do just as good if you take your time, by sticking your fingers in the back of the carbs and feeling which slide moves first. I set mine up this way, and then checked it with a UNI-syn after asking my dad if he still had one kicking around from his VW days; it was very near perfect, just takes longer by hand.

J-Madd, You must have a MASSIVE air leak somewhere. I completely agree that all bikes are somewhat different, I've seen identical bikes (to the last detail I mean) run two sizes different mains. Mine happened to pull the bigger main at 340's, but I can't imagine anyway you would be too white at 350. :baseball_bat:

If you have a heavy buildup on there, get the pipes good and warm, to more or less re-liquify the pants and use a razor blade very carefully (don't scratch the chrome) to remove excess pants. Then let the pipes cool, so the pants will reharden. Then take some at least #00 steel wool, I use #0000, and it will come right off. Despite what Bansh88 said, I've had this happen several times, and my pipes still look absolutely brand new. Last time I rode I had a guy with a set of shitty looking 3 month old PC's ask me if my pipes were brand new. They were a year and a half older than his.

Short story: GIMMICK. I'll go on record, and out on a limb (albeit very very short) and say can't, won't, never work.

Some people will put it in between the a-arms suspended in the frame, or remove it all together. If you get the Modquad (or similar) bracket it will bolt in the original location. That's what I did, and if you reroute the coolant lines it will recirculate as intended, giving you some added capacity.