2003LimitedBanshee

Not meaning this offensively, but, if you are having problems with the NGK's not firing, I'm betting your jetting must be off, or you may have an issue with your stator not providing enough juice. I've run the NGK's flawlessly for quite some time. I replace mine after a season, just because, not because of any issue.

I know you didn't post it, but do you have the TrailTech mount?

Do you still have any available I would be very interested? Who is the manufacturer of these covers? Do you have any references? $29 bucks isn't that much but it would still suck to lose it.

I have to strongly disagree. Oakley's are all I've ever owned, from the original blades (they're bringing those back now!). Full UVA/UVB protection. Plus if you break them, pay for the shipping and they'll fix 'em for you. I've always decided to change styles before I've ever broken or worn out a pair. Oh yeah, free bump!! Good luck

One thing you have to be aware of when selecting a chain lube is what conditions you will be riding in. I was looking at Bel-Ray and another chain "wax" but they said it leaves a Cosmolene like finish on the chain. Believe me you don't want anything close to Cosmolene if you're riding in sand (as I do). As far as case savers go, I agree that many problems can be avoided through proper maintanence and checking. However, sometimes even the best of chains will break, just bad circumstances or some flaw in the manufacturing. I saw the original post on the aluminum case save that BigRed is running, and I must say I echo his concern about the load of the case saver on the three bolts if a chain were to break. Not only because I run one, but I much prefer the design of the TM case saver. It isn't all shiny and billet, but it does have a "locking" design that contacts the case in 4 different places to spread the load of a broken chain. It almost makes the three bolts pointless. In my opinion I feel a case saver should be one of the first upgrades after you start increasing the power output. They are very cheap insurance.

Or I could tell you real quick, but searching is helpful. TORS stands for Throttle Override System. It is basically a mechanism that compares the position of the slides to the position of the thumb throttle and disables the ignition if there is a mismatch (stuck throttle). It also keeps the bike from being able to rev above 1800 RPM (?) when the parking brake is set. In theory, there is no performance limitation from a perfectly functioning TORS system. By removing the TORS system you remove the possibility of having an electronic device malfunction and ruin your fun. It is also a much cleaner system without the TORS carb tops, and makes jetting changes easier (you don't have to fight the tops around to get them off the carbs). It isn't difficult to remove the TORS tops themselves, but you must also install the idle screws to regain idle speed adjustment. This is not hard, but I would recommend a drill press (for drilling through the screw bosses) and some patience when installing the kit. Don't rush yourself and try to change it and be riding in 20 minutes. Remember if you drill the idle screw hole wrong, you may have just scrapped that carb or carbs.

Are you holding a small amount of throttle when you try to start it? Keep in mind that immediately after installing the TORS removal you should have your idle screws backed all the way out, but this will leave the slides fully seated and not allow for a high enough idle to run. Also, did you properly sync your carbs? There would have been no reason to have the float bowls off unless you made other changes, so this wouldn't normally be an issue. If you aren't already, try giving it about 1/8 throttle when starting. Check the sync of the carbs just to make sure. If you don't have a Uni-Syn, the manual method works great, and will produce perfect results if you take the time and have the patience. My bet is that the bike will start with approx 1/8 throttle. Warm the bike up, and hold it at the right idle speed (approx 1200-1300 RPM) then adjust one carb idle screw at a time until you here the idle raise slightly, back it off very slightly and lock it in. Then do the same to the other carb. Hope that helps

If you are running the Toomey (Uni) 2:1 High Flow filter, and you are near sea level, approx 60 degrees I would say you should be nearer to 330 on the mains. I'm running stock pilots with .5 on the air screws. Also, I've got the Dynojet needles that come with the Toomey kit set on the 4th clip. What other mods, if any, do you have? What elevation, air temp etc.? As far as removing the carbs I would do it; especially if you have the 2:1 Filter. It will only take you a few minutes to pull the carbs and you have much more room to work with on the bench. The main problem many people seem to have when rejetting the carbs at the same time is switching the float bowls on the carbs. But if you are concerned just tear one carb down, change your jet and then tear the other carb down. Changing jets itself is not hard, getting proper jetting isn't that hard either (in my opinion), and can make the difference in a bike running hard, and running really hard, and trouble free I might add. You just need to take your time dialing in all RPM ranges (pilot, needle, main) and paying attention to what your plugs and bike are telling you.

All I will say is that before I bought pipes I did a fair amount of research. I called Toomey and they told me much the same as what people often mention on here. The T6's were designed around a stock engine, and if you planned on any internal modifications you were better off with the T5's. Now, I know there are many wizards out there when it comes to porting and matching that to the pipe, so I don't doubt that someone out there knows how to port a T6 bike and make it perform great. I agree it would be interesting to see a modded engine with T5's and one with T6's. Who knows? But the designer of the pipe claims better results with 5's...??

$395 $440 hmmm.... Cheaper??

If you feel the engine is holding you back, pop for the entire 450. As mentioned, the suspension geometry, frame etc. are much improved. I have to say that a Banshee engine in the 450 frame would be a better swap than 450 engine into a Banshee frame.

Not right! You need a very slight (about 1/8") amount of slack at both the thumb throttle and carb adjuster ends. You do not, want the cable to be tight and adjust the idle speed by changing the position of the thumb throttle end of the cable. My guess is that you need to machine or file (I filed and made it great as long as you take your time and do it right) the boss shorter. Toomey says the boss should be approx 20mm (~.75") from the outside of the slide bore to the surface that the locknut should seat against. I noticed that I had the screws nearly bottomed out and wasn't getting the idle speed I needed. So I filed mine very near to the point where the tapping is present on the inside of the screw boss. This gave me the adjustment I needed. Whatever you do, do not have your throttle cable tight; you need some play at each end.

64mm, 64cm would be about a 25" bore (kinda big).

The stock NGK's should work fine. I didn't see anything in your sig that would indicate you should run a different heat range plug than stock. So BR8ES's should work fine...

My experience with the T5's is that you won't want a pilot that big. I went to a 27.5 with 1.75 turns out on the air screw. But later, I didn't feel like the throttle response was what it should be, dropped back to the stock, 25, pilot at .5 turn on the air screws, and was instantly better by far. I have this setup for running at Horsfall (Coos Bay/North Bend) so elevation and temps will be almost identical. I think you would be highly disappointed with the 30 pilot. The main jetting should be pretty close though. I run 340's, but in the lower 300's should be the ticket for you, or close to it.

I'm sure you just mispoke (hopefully), but you shouldn't put any oil in the crankcase (premix remember). Now in the transmission, Yamaha recommends 10W-30, however, I know many people run Belray, or some other type of 80 wt oil. I personally run Havoline 10W-30 synthetic, which everyone says will ruin your clutch but I've run it now for quite some time and never had any ill effects.

6 on 1, half a dozen the other... I run the Dynojet needles and like them, others don't and say they suck. I personally feel they offer me more adjustment than the stock needles, but you should be able to adjust very close using the stock needles also, so...?

Actually, it will be quicker out of the hole. The shorter gearing gives you quicker acceleration, but it will sacrifice some top end speed. Learning how to shift quickly should be a point to consider. When I'm dragging in the sand I ALWAYS speed shift. If done properly, you won't lose any measureable ground or time. And technically ssanddemon is correct, you could cut the "center" out of the lid and not have to run a Pro Flow, but to truly, and fully, remove the airbox lid as I was describing, you must run a Pro Flow. I would consider the other a modification to the airlid not a removal.

Yep, factory arms don't have serviceable ball joints.

PM sent...

Did I read right?? Free pipes, and T5's at that... Man if you can make the pipes run-able, jump on that. T5's are $550 from Toomey if they're chrome, and as anyone will tell you they'll run real good. There are pipes out there that make more power, but T5's are an excellent pipe. If you're looking for free, mod your timing plate, I preferred the adj. plate from Ricky Stator, but it ends up about $45 with shipping. You can take the snorkel off you airbox with no other mods needed and pick up a little, but removing the lid will require a Pro Flow adapter and K&N usually $50-ish used, closer to $100 new. You'll soon find that it costs money to go fast, how fast do you wanna go?...

Okay, so what exactly do these kits consist of? Is the Dynojet kit (they call it a "Power Kit or something right), new needles and a few spattering a jet sizes? I assume the FMF kit must be about the same, maybe a few more jet sizes and a fancy "go fast" name. Unless I'm mistaken these are just collections of parts that you can buy individually, boxed up, overpriced and with a fancy name slapped on them. Many people will run the stock needles in the carbs (they install in the bottom of the carb slide, since you said you're new), but some including myself, upgrade the needles for a different length/profile. Dynojet makes needles Vitos etc. And jets are a dime a dozen, okay like $3 a piece or so for mains. I don't personally see the need for these overpriced kits, and chances are they may not even have the sizes (jets) you need. Maybe I'm wrong though...

My bet would be that you wouldn't have to rejet, if you were still running stock pipes. I don't know that you'll increase the engine's ability to flow much more by just swapping the silencers. It shouldn't make so much difference that you'd lean it out and burn it up, BUT, you may ultimately end up needing to go up a few sizes.

The key to point out here is that these 4 sets would not truly be the same size, unless they are improperly inflated as rz points out. Rollout is simply the circumference of the tire. Since circumference is the product of diameter and pi (3.14....) if these tires are truly the same diameter (height) they will have the same rollout.

I guess yoiu have to build a stroker Cub motor to run in this crowd? I know where he is coming from, but you can make good power on a stock motor, a lot more with porting granted, but still decent. I run 9 paddle haulers on my bike, stock port, and very similar mods, with a few additions. With the 13 tooth you give yourself a good advantage. With a 14 tooth it is a bit much, and you'll find yourself bogging. You'll do a lot with gear selection and body position. Do it, and when you port it you'll still be on.