2003LimitedBanshee

Isn't this maybe a little played out? It was funny the first 75 (thousand) times... Not to shit on your parade

I don't know you may be able to find a used one, but the cable may be worn etc. etc. Another alternative... Toomey TORS Removal Kit Link Doesn't seem like a bad price, New Motion Pro Cable, Idle Kit etc.

I've never had the nerve to try 0000# steel wool on my wheels, but I suppose it could work. I prefer using 3M Rubbing Compound as an initial polish, then finish up with a finer polish. I'll use either Mother's Aluminum or Xtreme Metal Polish. The Xtreme is basically cotton treated with the polish. For a finish I use Maas Polish. It's super fine (think smooth toothpaste). I tried one of those Mother's Powerballs with a 1/2" electric drill motor. Chip Foose is a liar, I think it sucks. I spent 45 minutes one time with the crappy ball, and had to go back through all the hand steps anyway. Unless you've got a polishing stand with all the right buffs, I don't think you can beat the shine of a hand polish (but time consuming).

Yeah, these definitely would have been tight enough to rip. You could see every coil, until I loosened them up. I think the holes in the fuzzy side of the velcro that I left partially exposed, should help the shock vent better, plus would only let a minimal amount of sand in at best.

I haven't had any problem running the Toomey (Dynojet) needles, and feel they offer more tuneability than stock. But you're right their effectiveness has been questioned many times, I think it comes down to personal preference. hotrodshee, If the hesitation is in the throttle range you describe I would say try turning your air screws in first. I'm running similar mods, but I am only running .5 turn on my air screws with stock pilots. I was running 27.5's for a while, but switched back after my VForce swap, and noticed a considerable increase in the snap response. On another note, I would think that those 350's would be too big if you're on a stock port (you didn't mention porting so assume you are). I'm running 340's with a 2:1 filter (no airbox) at 50 degrees F. Are you considerably colder? Also, I'm on the 5th clip on the Toomey (Dynojet) needle, but I swap between 4th and 5th (so minute a difference it's almost indiscernable). Hope that helps...

Hey, I know this should probably go in the suspension, but figured it would get more hits here. I just picked up a set of Shockwears (made by Outerwears), and was wondering, when installing them do you only velcro it tight enough to still leave the holes in the fuzzy side of the velcro exposed. It was real tight when I wrapped them to cover the holes, and thought that leaving them exposed might help the shock vent better? Anybody got ideas... besides I've heard they can wear the finish on the shocks, but I need to upgrade anyway.

Well, mostly I'm riding dunes, with some fairly steep grades, plus I've realized that most of the dune racing I do is much shorter (and possibly steeper?) than what many ride. The main dragging places around the dunes I ride are at most 200 yards (probably closer to 150 yds max), therefore coming out of the whole fast is more important than the top end pull you'd get with the 15. If those 450's jump you out of the hole, there just isn't enough distance to make it up on the top. At most I'll run through 4th; some of the 450 guys will come out in second, and possibly only one shift into 3rd at most, some not at all but they're usually running past the power.

I'm working on getting my hands on a new YFZ 450 taillight. Clear lens, red leds. The damn dealership wants like $80 bucks or something stupid. But I've seen several on eBay, seem to go for around $50 bucks. A little slimmer than the R6, but otherwise close in shape.

Maybe, but probably not is the most likely answer.

Yeah the fuel line off the petcock runs all the way back to between the two carbs, and has a "T" fitting that connects behind the carbs (back of the carbs, very near the left carb top) then runs to the left side inlet on each carb. The choke tube is a straight shot between the two carbs, from the left carb with the stat, over to the right. It appears Chris642 is running carbs with individual stats (?, but maybe not... Keihins??) other than that it shows the basic idea.

The red models come from the factory with +5HP. I can't see anyway a stock Banshee will hang with a modded 450. If you figure the power to weight ratio, that 100 pounds is a huge difference, but still thought he would likely pull you. But he may be a crappy rider to boot and you're not.

That's all I'ved run and never had any problems...

Bump... getting a few more bikes lined up.

20cc domes will not produce that much compression a 8000' ft elevation, but may produce more at sea level. Again, blanket responses don't work. According to the compression estimates from nossmachine.com, if you were running 20cc domes at sea level you'd be at 169psi on a fresh stock bore. Most people will tell you that this is above the rating for 91 octane premium and you should mix some race gas, especially if you're running adv. timing.

The 45 degree cutout on the slides should face the filter not the cylinder. I believe he checked this already, but it could be the case. If I understand the way you're explaining right, the way you are suggesting to install them would be backwards.

Wrong. The general design of Banshees have not changed since 87. But try getting the brake light to work on you 2000 or older, let me know how it goes. How about TORS... Again, not trying to jump on you, but I've read several posts now, and the info just isn't quite up to snuff.

First he's not running stock 26mm carbs, so I believe the main jet numbering will be different. Second, need to be careful giving blanket jetting figures like that. Lke Suzuki asked, you don't know his elevation, temps, his air filter setup etc. all of which will affect his jetting. Third, I always run my oil premix at the manufacturer's (oil company not Yamaha) recommended ratio. I figure they have tested their oils to perform a specific way under a set of conditions. For instance, you would not run a full-synthetic at the same mix ratio as a 100% petroleum based oil. Not trying to rip you, but blanket responses don't work, as every situation is different. Now, Slow, depending on how old your cable is, you could probably try lubing them. Many people overlook this, and it can make a significant diff. in the life and ease of use of the cables. Banshees aren't known for being fuel misers (unlike many 4-strokes), and does your bike smoke only for the first few after warming up, or indefinitely. If it doesn't go away you could be too rich on the oil, too rich on jetting, or you could even have crank seals going bad.

The hoses you're talking about should be vent tubes. I guess you technically don't need them, but any fuel that is vented will go down the side of the carb and attract sand/dirt/dust etc. If your hoses are gone, or keep falling off, it is probably time to replace them. Over time, the fuel, sun and general weathering, make the plastic stiff and it doesn't keep the elasticity required to hold it on the vents.

I'm going to be working on mine today (spit shining for the dunes) and can try to get a good pic. But, basically it comes off the petcock, over the stock balance tube (or boost bottle if you're running one) and personally I ran mine under the left carb cable to the central "T" that feeds both carbs. For some stupid reason I thought I remembered the fuel line going over the left carb cable (w/TORS) but this seems stupid and I can't remember. Anyway, the key to routing the fuel line is kind of whatever works. You don't want any tight bends that will restrict flow, not hot surfaces, just common sense stuff. I'll see if I can get a pic or two for you.

Agreed. I just posted about over carbing in the jetting forum. Many people make the assumption that bigger is always better when it comes to carbs, but this isn't always so. A guy I ride with, who happens to work at the local Yamaha shop, built up his wife's Banshee, and turned out 78 RWHP on bored carbs (with quite a bit of other stuff of course). My personal opinion is that you can go a long way on bored stock carbs, but you should definitely consider stepping up if you go to a Cub setup or other extensive stuff.

So to make sure I've got it right, you swapped carbs in between dyno pulls? If so it sounds as though the jetting was off on the second, and/or the 35mm carbs are just too big for what the motor can pull. You can over carb, and many people make the mistake of thinking bigger carbs will always be better. One thing you have sacrificed with the bigger carbs for sure is some intake velocity, although this normally effects torque more noticeably. But torque is a factor of HP, so it would carry throught to some extent. Also keep in mind that dyno readings are likely to vary between dynos, air temp from day to day etc. etc., but 5HP is probably more than I would expect. My bet is that the jetting could be improved, but the carbs may simply be too big for your current setup.

Either your bike is really built, or no offense, you haven't raced some built 450's (Yamaha or Honda for that matter). Don't get me wrong piped and filtered are generally no problem if you've done some decent work. But if you run a 450 that is built up pretty strong, you're gonna need to be ported, plus some other bolt-ons or they may spank you. I know how to ride, and I've run a couple 450's (a Honda was the baddest I've run) in the dunes, and I had to ride the piss out of my bike to take him, and we were trading wins at that. But, I haven't had my bike ported yet...

Not really that simple. But in this case yes. What you have done by adding the pipes, as well as the K&N's is increase the engines ability to take in and expel more air. You've "opened" it up so to say. Anytime you affect the engine's ability to intake or exhaust more or less air, you will have the basis for changing the jetting. If you are able to add parts, and the engine requires more fuel (would be leaner without jetting adjustments), this is a sign that you have increased the performance and power capability of the engine. I would think that dual 36mm would be really big for what you've done so far. Is the bike ported, or is it just filter and pipes so far. If nothing else has been done, you may actually be holding the performance down, as compared to stock carbs, for now. Even if you were ported on stock cylinders, I would think these would be kinda big (correct me if I'm wrong anybody), probably more appropriate if you were running Cubs or something along those lines. Good choice by the way on the pipes, you'll find they come highly recommended for many types of riding, a great all-around performance set of pipes. Lends well to future mods. Now it gets expensive

Well if it is gray, that would indicate that it is lean. You are wanting to shoot for a light chocolate milk type color. White/gray, is too lean, dark brown/black is too rich. However, when you say you weren't able to get it into 6th, do you mean you just ran out of space, or would it not clean out and pull through 6th? Because if it is the latter I wouldn't expect a gray (lean) plug color. Also make sure you are pulling both plugs, even though you are running a single carb, it is still possible to develop an airleak, say around one reed block. Sorry, don't have any experiece jetting the single 36mm.

Ding! I bet that is your culprit. Mine acted very similar after I hid some big puddles at John's Peak with the Toomey 2:1 (no airbox). Depending on how much water you may have got in there it may clean out, or you may need to take the carbs off and clean them up. But my money is on the moisture.