2003LimitedBanshee

Glad someone else noticed this also, guess it went unnoticed in my post.

I don't know about anyone else, but I only saw one person who posted on this topic from Oklahoma, or the midwest for that matter, besides the topic starter. In a sense you are somewhat right though. It seems many people forget about rider position, less paddles=shift weight back, more paddles=shift weight forward.

Strap your quad to a dyno and make a pull with your oil mixed at 20:1; then strap it on again and make another pull with 32 or 40:1. I'll make a good wager on what you'll find.

I'll sell you one of those Tornado things you can put in your intake tube of your fuel injected car, so that it creates a more turbulent intake charge to better atomize the fuel. Oh wait the fuel is injected just before the intake valve, oops forgot that part. Not knocking you at all, but this sounds like a bunch of hokey crap. There is mixed debate as to whether or not reed spacers (think of them like changing the length of the intake runners on a car) make any kind of noticeable difference. This "velocity stack" setup shouldn't be able to make any kind of difference that you would ever notice. Sounds like a play on Hilborn style injector stacks, but in this app it just doesn't seem plausible.

Well some of this is mostly right, others not at all. As mentioned octane is the rating of the fuel's resistance to combustion, ie. higher octane resists pre-ignition (PING, before it is fired by the spark plug) more than a lower octane fuel. Oil on the other hand does absolutely nothing to increase the octane. The oil is there to lubricate the cylinders and the bearings among other things (remember it has no crankcase lubrication other than the oil?). Oil does not burn, so I guess you could say it makes for a less combustable (less powerful) intake charge, but it does not do anything to resits PING.

I have to agree with ssanddemon, unless your bike is ported, which isn't in your sig, I would go with a 9 paddle hauler from Skat Trak. When I started running a 9 paddle, everyone told me I was over paddling my bike, but you'll likely start modding more and more and then you'll probably want more than the 9 haulers eventually. On the sand gecko etc note, if you plan on dragging go with the Skat Trak's, I think anyone in their right mind will tell you that.

The simple fact is that you only need to run just enough oil to provide the necessary lubrication to the cylinder walls, and the crank bearings; beyond that you are hurting performance. I would have to sincerely contest the McCullough info as it was presented above. If the cylinder to piston gap, as well as the ring end gap are set appropriately, you should not need to run a richer oil/fuel ratio to gain performance. You have to consider the performance differences between a chainsaw (or weedeater, whatever they were reportedly claiming this on), and a performance two-stroke (be it dirtbike, Banshee or otherwise). There are no combustion benefits present in oil, thus the more oil, ie. less fuel the less power the engine can make. I personally have run Golden Spectro at 48:1 for the past two seasons, and my compression psi is within 5 psi of what is expected for a fresh bore, stock bore/stroke etc. In addition I plan on switching to Amsoil at at least 80:1. However, it is true that at some point you will sacrifice some longevity at the price of added performance, just not anywhere near the difference between 20:1 vs. 32:1. A good rule of thumb is to pay attention to what the oil manufacturer recommends based on usage. If they test it out fine at 50:1, they won't be selling you a bum-rap, they figure it will live just fine at that ratio.

Like ssanddemon said you should most likely be fine with your current setup, on pump gas. Personally, I run a strong mix of race to be on the safe side, at the current price of premium, it's not that much more expensive to run race. Also, it is not recommended to run retarded timing settings, due to the fact that it tends to increase the engine temps, often times pretty drastically.

Spot On! Does anyone else remember when 2b started out on here?? Some BS back and forth pissing match about a set of cylinders, drug on and on, it was the thread that wouldn't die. Old tricks...? BigRed free bump... wish I was a little more in the market at the time I'd shoot you an offer, but just picked up a CRF 450 (a little cash poor at the moment).

You should not have to change your pilot, and with stock pipes and all just a K&N filter with the snorkel and a stock lid, I would guess you would only need to go about 3 sizes at most. Also as mentioned you want to check for air leaks. Are you familiar with WOT plug checks?

Guess no one knows???? I'll just PM Noss himself I guess...

PM boonman on here. He does a great job, I'm just one of the very many that he has done this for. You'll think you're in an F1 car, with the new throttle response!

I will be putting my NOSS head on when it arrives and I was thinking I should probably change the heat range of my plugs. I will be running 20cc domes (should be approx. 165 psi), and 4 degrees advance, plus the other mods in my signature, at the Oregon Dunes (sea level, 70-ish degrees). Anyone with a similar setup, should a BR9ES cover this? Or, I am trying to remember, do they make a BR10ES? Oh, and yes I am running 40% Trick 116. Thanks

Too big unless you are running an open element (no airbox) K&N. If you're a Pro Flow and no lid w/K&N you'll probably be around 300 (25-30 C is about 75-80??), maybe 310. My guess would be stock pilot at around .75-1.25 turns out on the airscrew.

Definitely get ahold of Boonman if you plan on getting your flywheel lightened. I expected it to make the bike a little more finicky about wanting to stall when pulling off from a dead stop; but I would say you will never notice that. Other than you'll have to start pulling gears faster you'll love it. It will rev like an F1 car after the fact.

Bingo! That's where my money is. Except for this french guy that was on here a while back that claimed til the cows came home, that he lost power after advancing the timing, you would be the first to say you noticed a significant loss in bottom end after advancing the timing. You should have advanced the timing by rotating the plate clockwise, reading off of the "top" numbers. If the case line, is aligned with 4 degrees "below" the zero line, you retarded the timing. edit: Almost forgot, on the hard to start question, are you sure you gapped the coil pickup correctly. I believe RS recommends as tight as you can get it but no tighter than .020" (maybe .018", can't remember). I recommend just grabbing a set of feeler gauges and setting it. NOTE: Mine was set at .026" when I cracked the stator cover for the first time, so I just set mine back at that clearance.

You know I just re-read everything and I didn't pick one person out who said that the T6's suck. I don't know of a Toomey pipe that sucks. What I did see was a lot of people saying to go with T5's if you plan more extensive mods, because they will outperform T6's in the long run. If you call Toomey, they will tell you the exact same thing. On a stock bike T6's will outperform the T5's, but with more and more mods the T5's will come back and pass the T6's.

Once mine is warmed up it does not smoke one bit. Every banshee does not smoke. In fact, properly tuned (ie. jetted, and oil mix ratio) there is no reason for a two stroke to smoke. You might get it to smoke if you put around for a while and then rap it hard, but only momentarily at best. BrianEb, you mentioned after you ride. Did you mean actually after you finish riding you see a very small amount of smoke out the tailpipe (almost like cigarette smoke in the wind)? Or do you mean it actually smokes while riding? When checking my jetting (WOT plug test) I have noticed that my bike will wisp smoke out the silencers just after coming to a stop from the WOT kill.

If you're talking about replacing the same "roller" he is, you wouldn't think twice about the swingarm slider. To replace the stock swingarm "roller" (I think Yamaha actually calls it a guard) you have to remove the stock swinger. That alone is worth the extra money. The other rollers are a dime a dozen and quick to replace, plus they are about the same price for Yamaha replacements or UPP or others.

You've probably already ordered pipes, but I'd agree with Wallrat. Eventually you will undoubtedly want to do even more mods, and you'll likely find yourself after new pipes again if you go with the T6's. If you know, with absolute, unquestionable certainty that you will never-ever port your bike, you'll make slightly more power with the 6's. So I'd say T5's also.

Let us know what you've done to the airbox, your elevation, and temperature, and I bet we can get you super close off that. Even with the stock box, I think 260's would be a bit lean. I always seemed to think that the fatties liked a slightly larger pilot than T5's, but a smaller main. I would bet that your bog is a lean bog, and likely you need to lower your clip position (ie. raising the needle), but need more info to be sure.

No complaints here. Flows way more air than the stock box, and as long as you're not riding in water/loose mud it'll work great.

Sorry not sure if you are actually asking. But broke was saying that 2bzy2p was trying to cover a smart-ass answer by saying it was a legit question. Like if I was to ask if a small block chevy dipstick would work on my banshee??

Maybe a dumb question, but, do you have the choke crossover tube installed? IF you don't you'll likely have to kick and kick it and probably won't ever get it started.

Look up ^^^^^^^^^