2003LimitedBanshee

I don't know this guy from Adam, and he could totally be screwing you over. But I will say, the USPS tracking numbers don't work like UPS tracking numbers with step by step tracking. When I order my VForce's from a company, I received an email with the tracking number, nothing showed on the USPS site, but then they just showed up. Again, he could be screwing you, but the postal tracking system does suck, so who knows...

Way to crap on a guy's thread...

I would have guessed you would be around the right jetting, but probably a touch fat. Plus, if you are fouling plugs that fast, you must be jetted too rich, and the warmer temps revealed that. Is it fouling both plus? If so it is most likely jetting, but it could be dirty filter, weakening stator (weaker spark), too rich oil ratio etc, but likely jetting. If it is just fouling one plug it could also point to a bad plug wire etc.

Okay, I know I'm probably the last guy on BHQ to get my flywheel lightened (ok probably not but...). Let me tell you I just got my flywheel back from Boonman, and this thing is like a friggin' F1 car now. Took it for a little rip up a dirt road, and could tell immediately. Can't wait to get it over to the dunes and let it fly. Thanks!!

From what I've heard you may have a lot more mess on your hands if you pull the screws out of the side of the cylinders. Hopefully you're not too far into it, or you've already confirmed what I've heard.

Kinda sorta... You've got it pretty much right on the plug heat range. A "hotter" plug has more insulation, ie. it holds more heat (just as you said), whereas a "colder" plug has less insulation, and disipates heat more quickly. The problem with running too "hot" of plugs is that the plug itself could actually retain enough heat to cause pre-ignition ("ping"), independent of the controlled burn ignited by the spark. Typically, you will want to run "colder" plugs as you increase the compression ratio (ie. more cylinder temperature) so that you decrease the chance of "ping". This is also the reason for running race fuel with higher octanes, as the octane rating signifies the resistance to combustion. Most times people will run hotter plugs because the engine is not running properly (4-stroke burning oil for instance) or the do not have the machine jetted properly. The "hotter" plug resists the oil accumulation more than the "colder" plug.

Just thought I would throw out that I was going to be at the Oregon Dunes, Horsfall, the very first weekend of February. A few Banshees, but unfortunately several tools on utilities. Spot#3... Brian

Right on, good place to live. Just outside Ashland (yeah I know the jokes), still makes the coast within easy reach.

Are you running long races, scrambles or something? Otherwise, and I don't mean any offense by this, is gas usage a big concern? I can't imagine it would use a significant amount more fuel, and I don't ride my Banshee for fuel mileage, otherwise I'd be on a 4-poke. If you're looking for more bottom end, then the single carb seems to be the way to go, but still the performance advantage you would be seeking to gain would outweight the decrease in fuel economy, in my opinon.

Dang just beat me to it. I was going to say "I bet he drives a Colorado" Oh well, a day late and a dollar short.

Yeah, i've never really had a need for reverse... turn the bars and wale it! I can say that on my RM it didn't engage the kicker, but who knows? Made for an interesting break.

Sorry can't help you out on the wiring, but just saw you are from the "State of Jefferson", whereabout?

Probably would get a lot more posts in the Jetting/Exhuast forum but.... With those mods I would expect you'll be somewhere in the low 300's. Say 320 as a good starting point, but you may end up higher. I understand that the FMF's tend to like a stock pilot for your temp around 10C (~50F), however you may want to go up one size on the pilot for -10C. If you're running the stock needle I would guess you'd be between the 3rd and 4th clip. For the temp swings you are talking about, you should most likely be rejetting if it is +10C one day and -10C the other.

Ding I was hoping to get it out there that it was Horsfall before you mentioned it. Looks to be right around spot #3 near the entrance, very nice place to ride. Bike looks great. By the way, a group of guys I know will be over there the first weekend of Feb. Now I know this isn't the riding forum, but just thought I'd through it out there. Only a few Banshees, a dirtbike or two, and some stupid Utilities.

My guess is it would be pretty hard due to the electronic controls that would be necessary to make it happen easily. Now, I've never tried it on my Banshee, but I will tell you, as most probably know, that a two-stroke will run fine backwards. I found this out hill climbing dirtbikes with some friends. I didn't make a hill and the bike died, rolled back some and started on compression (only in reverse). So then the competition was on to see who could ride their bike in reverse the farthest. Just like going forward with 5 reverse gears. None of us made it very far. edit: The only thing I just thought about is that many guys run manually advanced timing on their bikes (me included), but if you run the bike in reverse, the timing would be retarded by the same amount, which I wouldn't recommend. That would probably be the biggest kicker, as it sounds like the Ski-Doo has electronically controlled timing.

I would try a search. I am surprised that no one has responded. I saw the post, but have never jetted a bike with these pipes. I will try and give it my best shot, as it will probably get you in the ballpark. When you say 2:1 intake, do you mean you are running 1 carb feeding both cylinders, or do you mean you are running a single filter element for both carbs, with the airbox eliminated? If you are running the latter, with the stock Mikunis, I would guess that you should be in the 340 range. I say this because as I understand the Shearer's are a slightly more top end pipe. Now, most classify the T5's I run as more top end as well. Thus, I am running 340's with the mods listed in my sig (when I run at sea level approx 65 degrees), and the only differences are the timing advance (I went up 1 size) and the VForce's (no change for me). So I would guess you would be around the same jetting specs. Notice I said around, the Shearer's may flow a little bit better up top and so you may even end up a size (probably not 2 though) above that. In case you didn't know, the old standby ballpark jetting is to go up until it will not clean out in 6th gear, then go back down one size. You should also do a WOT plug color check to confirm your jetting.

For a few bucks more I would go with an adjustable timing plate from Ricky Stator. I have heard very mixed reviews about the timing keys, but advancing your timing is a good way to pick up a few all around. Usually I agree with Banchetta, however, I would say that a set of VForce's would probably make a difference in your throttle response, but may not see it on the dyno until after you have ported it. I believe that what Banchetta may have been referencing is that the stock porting is so restrictive, that the increased flow possible (thus more power) by the VForce's may not be attainable until you have the bike ported.

Yes it is the piece that the center electrode fires to. As Banchetta was saying, you can really tell what you need to know by looking at this.

How about the "New" Camaros from C.A.R.S. Now officially licensed by GM to be called the Camaro. Order it up and all the parts come to your door truck freight. I don't know if Banshees have quite that kind of following, but somebody will keep it going.

Like fastbanshee said, you have to make sure you are running a gasket on both the cylinder and carb side of the reeds. Also, you may want to consider a super small skim, and I mean skim, coating of RTV on the modified intake boot side. I have seen some modded boots that had small scuffs from the hacksaw blade that caused small air leaks. Actually it seems that you usually do not have to rejet. Moto Tassinari says that rejetting may be necessary. Now, every bike is different and I would definitely recommend a plug check, but I didn't find it necessary on mine.

Sorry, confusing threads I was responding to.

With proper jetting you should not foul plugs. Like GYTWYPT said, I'm sure I could count the number of fouled plugs on one hand. In fact I've only had a problem with one plug on my Banshee, ever. And in that case, I'm not to sure the plug didn't break down internally, because I simply swapped plugs and never had another problem.

I would recommed checking into the Body for Life program. When I got out of high school I was a fat bastard,5'11" and like 210lbs. Within four months I dropped to 162 (a little to light for my build, but...) Then I packed on about 13 lbs of muscle, best shape of my life. Then my gym went belly up, and I didn't workout for almost two years, but I was able to stick to the eating regime like Stan suggested, and only put on about 15 lbs over the nearly two years, and no gym workouts. Now I'm back at it, 6 days a week. A basic idea: Day 1: Upper body weights Day 2: Cardio (cardiovascular, bike etc.) Day 3: Lower body weights Day 4: Cardio Day 5: Upper body weights Day 6: Cardio The next week would start with lower body weights etc. etc. If you can cut out soda and useless sugar and other carbs it will help immensely. If you follow an eating plan like Stan suggested, it will work great, this is what I did. By the time you need to eat again you'll feel like your starving, but you'll eat enough and the right stuff to hold you to the next meal. I will usually "eat" 6 times a day. Take in lots of protein to aide in building muscle, and minimal carbs. Also, carbs should be complex. Holy hell this got long, sorry!

I don't know that I would say that it was a stupid question. You know the old saying... To answer your question, I'm certain I heard the factory is required to keep making parts for 10 years after the production model stops. However, the aftermarket will most likely never go away.