digger

hi: ok so at idle and low rpm, my banshee is missing on one cylinder. i'v taken the carbs apart and cleaned them several times, put in new spark plugs, and switched plug wires to see if the problem would travel to the other side, and it didnt (its the left side thats missing) the bike runs perfect as long as its revving above idle. i havent changed anything on it to make it do this, it just started happening. if anyone has any sugestions i would appreciate it.. thanx a lot.

i just fnished doing a top end rebuild (bored 20 over, wiesco pistons) now it fouls plugs like crazy!! i normaly run 32:1 yamalube... the first tank after re build i ran 24:1,and it seemed fine, now i'm using 32:1 on my second tank and it fouls all the time... i never changed jets (320 main 25 pilot) i cleaned the carbs before i put it back together. Do i need to re jet just for going 20 over...also it seems that when i'm in 6th gear it seems to rev higher and pull harder when i'm not quite full throttle.. if i pin it, it seems to make a deep slower revving noise.. not a bog or anything just seems to loose rpm. when i'm driving it hard the plugs look good nice dark brown colour... its only when i go slow that it does this.. i know banshee's arent meant to be driven slow, but it never did this before so something is up. Thx for all u'r help guys.. ps. my mods are t6's, with toomey 2:1 intake, boyesen reeds boost bottle 4* timing key

the left side of my crank case is full of water.. there was a rip in my intake boot, and rain water got in.... a lot of it! what should i do.... do i have to split the cases or can i use a shop vac and suck it out? will there be any damage to any bearings or anything in there? any help would be greatly appreciated

is the choke tube on between the 2 carbs?

both sides would read about 90 pounds and the gauge would drop back to zero within about 5 seconds. yes i honed in and replaced the rings at the same time

ok.. at idle it will only run on one cylinder (i put my hand behind the exaust and the left is very very weak) once revved up a bit it starts to run on both but the left sputters and misses a lot. when i rev the motor between gears it boggs and sputters and sometimes i'll pull the clutch in and it wont rev all the way down, it keeps revving. at wide open throttle it seems to be ok. what could my problem be? i'v cleaned the carbs several times, took the top end apart and everything looked fine, but i honed the cylinders and put new rings and gaskets on, i checked the reeds and they are fine, unplugged the TORS, drained the fuel tank and cleaned the screens on the fuel valve. both sides have the same comression., but it doesnt hold it.. is that normal? someone please help me!! thx.

this prolly isnt the problem but it could have something to do with the parkin brake switch that wont allow the engine to rev if the parkbrake is on. u know the one i mean an the clutch lever, the black wire that plugs into the clutch /brake assembly........ just a thought

i have tommey t6 pipes with the toomey 2:1 air filter and i was wondering if it would be worth it to get K&N clamp on's instead...... they look like they would flow better and i hate oiling the foam filter all the time, its so messy!!!! thx for the input.

a stock banshee has 200 in it, maybee 210 depends where u bought it from... but they arent meant to be lugged around they are suposed to be screaming all the time. it doesnt matter what jets u put in if u lug it the blugs will foul......and if u go too small u willl lean it out too much

u'r pipes are going to be blue... thats normal mine turned blue the first ride like a foot from the motor is blue... if they arent blue u'r too rich and it wont perform as good

unless u like welded pistons i would get those 190's out of there!!!! i have the same pipes and i'm running 320's when u got the pipes didnt u get 280's and 270's with the kit? are u still running an air box? if u are i would still say at least the 280's... have u done a plug chop, or even looked at u'r plugs, they must be white!

i got the same pipes and removed my over flow with no problems...... its not a recirculating system so it doesnt matter, its just there for environmental reasons. If u keep filling u'r rad up to the top when it heats up it will come out the over flow... it doesnt mean its over heating.. it just means its too full. i was told by one person that when the bike cools down it sucks the anti freeze back int the rad from the bottle, but i dont know.... toomey told me its unnessary. but many people do it with no problems. i beat the livin shit out of mine and it never over heats.

unless u like welded pistons i would get those 190's out of there!!!!! i have the same pipes and i'm running 320's and so are most other people, what type of air filter system u running, if u still have the air box maybee a 280 at the least!!! when u bought the pipes it should have come with 270's and 280's but i found them too lean.i would put in 300's and do a plug chop and go from there..... u'r plugs must be white now!!!!

i crashed last night and some how my tie rod managed to hit my pipe and put a dent in it.. it landed on the front wheels/bumber hard i know, but i cant find any thing bent... it doesnt hit any more , just that one time, what could have caused that.. any sugestions would be appreciated thx.

i can get a set af barley used yfz front shocks for $300 (canadian) i was wondering if its worth it to buy them or should i spend the extra ( a lot extra) and get elka or something? also do the yfz shocks bolt right on or is there modifications that have to be made? thx for the input. 4300