2003LimitedBanshee

40 oz. ...

The recommendations you have been given, and given again, are specific for your bike and riding location/conditions. He mentions that he is running everything else stock, whereas you have clamp-on K&Ns, and he presumably still has the stock airbox, possibly with the modded lid options that Toomey provides. Blink, you should probably be around 300-310 if you're running a slightly modded lid, at sea level, approx 60 degrees. You should be running a stock pilot, and needle around the 4th clip, either the stock or Dynojet needle that Toomey provides.

Well this should turn into a can of worms. Try searching also, but... I've heard a decent amount of good words about PC pipes, FMF's seem popular but the quality seems a bit lower than some other good choices. Alba doesn't make pipes to my knowledge, but the do retail FMF's Toomey's and possible CPI's also. What kind of riding do you do, and where? You should consider what type of riding you will do, what type of future mods you plan on doing etc. Toomey makes great pipes, Shearer, CPI and the list could go on...

I don't mean to be mean, but you've asked this questoin several times, and got good answers. The thing to understand about jetting is that there is NO textbook answer. My bike may like a set of 330's riding right next to you at Glamis with a 27.5 pilot, while your's may only take the 320's and the stock pilot. Maybe the cases on my bike are better matched coming from the factory, maybe your intakes have a casting flaw in the runner, maybe, maybe, maybe... If you're looking to buy one set of jets and be done, you're going to be disappointed. I have every size between 270 and 340. The short, frank answer is to buy both, and try each to see which it likes better. I know I've said it before in a previous post, you should be pretty lean at 280's, probably a touch lean still at 320's and right in the ballpark at 330 or 340's. Just try one and adjust it if it needs more tweaking. Truly you should be rejetting for a temperature swing of 30 degrees, but you could go middle of the road, a bit fat at 75, and a bit lean at 45, but neither would be an extreme.

Mine came in right around 39 oz. I believe. Down from 48 oz. to start with.

If I remember right, that wire is part of the TORS system (from the parking brake lead?). You'd think I should remember I did my TORS removal not that long ago, and I removed all the TORS wires and connectors from my harness before rewrapping it. If you don't have the TORS on your bike, I would just make sure you have it sealed (I used Liquid Electrical Tape to make sure I was weatherproof), and you could just wrap it in with the other wires. Or if your swapping the wires over to your connector I don't believe you should need it.

If you don't find any, Toomey sells them for like $24 a set.

So did you have it jetted right before you installed the T5's, or are those new as well. No offense, but still the only thing that would affect jetting is the pipes. What type of air filter setup are you running and is this new as well? If you haven't done anything to effect the volume of air in or out of the cylinders there isn't really a need to rejet, assuming it was jetted right before. If all of this stuff (pipes etc.) is new, what is your elevation and temperature? That should give everybody a point to make recommedations from.

Ok then the jetting specs above should get you pretty close. You should love those T5's I know I love mine. Always a good choice.

That's a nice collection of parts you've assembled, however, nothing you mentioned will really have a major effect on your jetting. The timing plate could cause you to need to go up one size, but possibly not either. Differences would come if you had your cylinders ported, changed pipes, possible reed changes etc.

My jetting is in my sig. I would guess you should be more around 300-310 on the mains. Like sheecandy said, your elevation and temp are going to play a big part in jetting. So I've assumed you are below 1000 ft and around 60 degrees. The general rule is up one jet size for every 15-20 degrees cooler (ie. 310-320 for 40 degrees). Despite what Toomey says about their "Perfect Jet Kit" I've found Toomey bikes (including my own) usually like more main. I've got a fair amount of experience jetting, and I would have been scared to run a WOT plug check more than the one time I did with the 280's.

You can run these on stock or aftermarket cages. There was just a big debate about whether or not they did anything at all. Some say they've seen or witnessed reed spacers providing "X" hp difference, others say they've never seen it make a difference. Doesn't sound like it is a big difference either way. Most run these to provide clearance for aftermarket carbs to the clutch linkage.

Although I haven't had any dealings/experience with Trinity products, that name seems to be a bad word around here. I think most will tell you that Big Bore, especially TRex type (can't remember if Trinity is), is a dying breed. Cheetah cubs are becoming (are already?) the big favorite for a lot of more serious rec riders, and racers as well. I don't know a great deal about the Cheetahs specifically, except I believe they are PV'd, but I know many people do, and are sure to let us both know.

Yeah, check out Ricky Stator for the adjustable timing plate. And definitely talk to boonman if you're looking to get your flywheel lightened. I just recently sent mine out to him. Got it back real quick, and made the throttle response like an F1 car.

If you're going to run without the lid then you definitely need a Pro Flow adapter. The lid is essentially half of the retaining process for the stock filter. Without the lid installed, there is nothing to retain the top surface of the air filter. The Pro Flow eliminates the need for the lid. Also, still, what temperature are you at?

Adjusting the timing does nothing for increasing the compression in the cylinder, it simply dictates at what time during the crankshaft rotation the impulse to fire the spark plug will be sent. It does however increase the likelihood of pre-ignition, and that is why you must start to run a mix of race fuel, depending on compression and amount of advance. On the compression test, it should definitely improve if the engine is warmed up, as compared to cold. As the engine warms, the metal (pistons, rings etc.) expands very slightly, decrease the ring gap and increases the compression reading you will get.

Really need to know a few more things to get it jetted accurately. What elevation are you at, air temperature? Did you order a K&N with a Pro Flow adapter? If so are you planning to run with a modded lid (partially cutoff), no lid at all? All of these factors will affect where you should have the bike jetted. Now, best guess with some assumptions: If you going to be running sea level, or close, at approx 60 degrees, Pro Flow K&N w/o lid, I would say you could probably start with 300 mains, but you may very well end at 310's (320's would probably be too fat), set the Dynojet needle that will come with your Toomey kit on the fourth clip from the blunt end, and stock pilot with approx 1 turn on the air screw to start out. This should get you pretty close based on the assumptions. Once we get a few more details, should be able to get it pretty close, but every bike is different, and jetting isn't isn't a textbook science.

You can just PM boonman. He is listed as a mod on several forums, if you click his name it will bring you to his profile and you can PM him, or just setup a new PM and title him as the recipient. I've got his contact info, but he'd probably prefer that he provides it, and he can give you rates etc. Great guy, fast turnaround, awesome parts!

Ok I'm starting to feel less dumb at least.

I believe Renthal makes a "Banshee bend" set of bars. What exactly do you mean by length. Are you talking width (assume yes), rise, sweep? All of these are things to consider when picking bars.

Dang all these years and I've completely forgot to do this. (4 stroke guy). I know you must have slipped, becuase I've read your jetting post that is pinned, so it seems you know your stuff. Also, you can save some serious money if you DON'T buy a ton of spark plugs. I personally swap plugs once a season, whether it needs them or not. Unless you do a ton of riding, and some people do, and if your bike is jetted properly, there shouldn't be a need to change plugs often at all. Personally, I never had any problems with my TORS. But I did go ahead and remove it anyway. Like the others have said, you can mod your airbox, and rejet for a little more power. You could also pick up an adjustable timing plate from Ricky Stator for $35 plus shipping. After that it starts to get more expensive, reeds, water impeller, porting etc. etc. etc. etc. Good luck and welcome to BHQ

I would have to say it looks like a Ricky Stator plate. It is cast just like Ricky's, but I guess it could be another brand, but most others are made from billet aluminum (why, it doesn't show, and it's not a stress load item). It looks like it is set around 1 degree advance.

Ok so next question is how do you adjust them? I've got the 3's and I don't believe any of the literature I got with them mentioned having adjustable stops, or how to adjust them, but the link you provided definitely makes it seems as though they do. Anybody know what's up? And I thought I was up on my stuff...

No pics dude!