trickedcarbine

Slingshot, there is a little info in the clutch tuning thread on them in drag section. I always reccomend a lock up. Even if it's not nesaccary power wise..... I still prefer soft springs for easy pull and a lock up allows you to do just that.

There are a few builders who have made that same claim though.... Not just slingshot manufacturers

Slingers have their advantages that is for sure and I definitely think that it would be the hot ticket for a guy like you. The extra mass works like added flywheel weight would for the Gncc guys. I love the slingshot, but someone needs to come up with a good quick change cover for drag guys to use them, but they are perfect for the trail guys

Any good ATF should suffice if you don't have any good wet clutch oils in the local shops I'd figure here would be plenty o other options as racing motorcycles is pretty big over seas. No motul?

That's about the same set up I'm doing rappy

Just the nature of the beast. It's not like people change their domes every ride. So it's not to big of a deal. The real bitch is that they will be producing a different girdle style head for the banshee similar to the one that THE358BANSHEE is using on his RZ Motor. Thus making domes for their current Torque head are not going to be produced anymore.

Good to know picklez..... My new rear caliper is off a Ducati Monster. Dual opposing piston brembo caliper! Fucking sweet

NAY on the WICKED.....

Typically the longer the rod you can use the better. It takes out some of the rod angle as the crank goes through the stroke. The only down side I see to the 120 rod is a piston that may be less common and a little more trench work. However, in an application like that you are already hunting down an out of the norm piston and trench work is trench work. The 120 should have a bigger pin which would be a little beefier and stronger

First Banshee I bought had the motion pro on it. And I guess growing up on dirt bikes makes me used to it. Never had the desire to change back and I just feel akward riding a thumb throttle now. Not to mention the sore thumb after a while

Hey honey....... Here's a good ol fashioned SMACK! Now do you feel like a FUCK TARD? Btw, don't get upset when the fellas tear your wife apart. You did post this so be prepared!

Out of frames, single carb, serval? Huh....... Please tell me you just had a pile of parts laying around. But I would highly reccomend a 440 Exciter manifold for any 2/1 set up and it would honestly outflow way more then any "banshee" 2/1 manifold. As for the jetting, your set up is a little unique but I'd imagine you will be in the range of 380/390 main with a 35 pilot. Maybe a 32.5 pilot

Maxima 927! But if you ride in the winter, switch to Amsoil dominator. The castor stuff tends to separate in colder temps.

I have seen them ran like that. I have also seen them modified and ported. If you are handy, I'd go about cutting that kazoo looking bell back and opening them up. Those boyhesons are designed to work with stock manifolds but there is nothing stopping you from a little modification

That is more of an open desert racer. That is why there would be a wide ratio tranny and the tall seat and tank. Not to mention how high up it is. It is definitely different but it is purpose built for a different kind of riding then most guys are used to. If Inwere you I would seek out a different 250r if it is trails that you wanna ride. That bike would be a giant sponge and probably be a top heavy bike with substantial body roll.

OEM or NOLOGY. There may be others around but those are the only ones I know to be proven reliable. Steer clear of both Ricky Stator electrical components as well as the RM brand electrical. RM even boasts their coil as an OEM replacement but when they first started selling them they had the totally wrong boots on them. Wouldn't even fucking go on to an NGK plug.

Well. I tried to put it back on track with your last topic like 3 pages ago by mentioning base spring pressure...... Hint hint. Maybe determining what/how to choose springs would be a good spot to continue since we just touched on it. Although there was a brief mentioning of air gap on Slower's part and it seems that some one is willing to learn it. So there are areas to touch on. I will keep going on choosing base spring pressure since it is one of the basics that I definitely know. The choices in springs out there are just over whelming if you are not sure what to run but I will help you narrow it down. The fact that you are running a lock up means that it's time to pass on your FAST HD springs to your Popeye fore armed buddy. Find your self about 3 sets of springs to test ranging from stock to a good medium pressure like the Barnett, toomey, or even the tusk ones. I personally like playing with the springs from Driveline Performance. I have found that they are fairly consistant when it comes to height and pressure per part number and as an oval racer I Cryo Treat them to keep a consistant feel. Now pick a baseline weight for the lock up and I'd suggest whatever comes on it out of the package or whatever your lock ups manufacturer suggests. This should be the go to weight each time you want to test a new combination. Now the dirty part. I personally like to start with stiffer springs and make a few runs. Pay attention to what the bike does. Does it wanna bog even under throttle(on good tune) right out of the hole? Try the next set of lighter springs. Did it just slip? Try adding your weight. Keep repeating it till you find that the bike seems to instantly lurch yet not violently jump on to the bar or begin to wheelie to aggressively. Try to get the bike to carry the front tires around the 8-12 inch past the 60 foot if you are on dirt/sand(not an asphalt expert sO maybe slower will chime in)

Oh man, another signature with that amazing beach vollyball chick Right on SB, I heard the same but there are a few members on here who know him well and figured they might chime in with some good news.

I am getting ready to do a 10mm build was wondering if Lew is back to work yet or if he is still recovering from his accident?

I was gonna be a dick and just say oh..... 225 kicking psi. But I will give an honest answer that makes you think a little. 13.0:1 static compression ratio is about the cut off in my opinion. Maybe 14.0:1, but any higher and you need good true race fuel. Learn to calculate those ratios from your current set up and let us all know what size domes that equates to

Paint is a NO NO on anything that will see fuel, the Powder Coat does ok. If it were me, I would locate a shop that does good annodizing. That shit is sweet! I had a shop that does a lot of paint ball and RC stuff do the carbon my brothers KX a few years back. It was like monster Green with clear splash so the aluminum showed through silver. Shit was killer!

Those Air Stryker carbs seem to have a much different (stronger) signal then the regular PWK. They typically jet out a few sizes smaller then the regular PWK will. So definitely don't be to worried if you find your self around a 148 after it is all said and done. BKM, that sounds a little rich for strykers on a stock stroke. You sure that yours aren't regular PWK's?

Can any builders chime in on the theory of "TURBO SWIRL" on the squish band? Is it just hoohah or does it actually work but so minute that it's not worth it? Just seems like a gimmick but at the same time it makes me wonder....

SHIBBY! Phone likes the full site now! Need to buy a new laptop though.... Looks kick ass Tyler!

So by saving money....... You mean charging $400.00 more for cases then every one else? Or are you talking NEW OEM? Just saw that you said salvage up there and that you wanna have fun? On another note, don't come to premium forums boasting a sales pitch with out ever at least being a contributing member. EBAY is waiting on you if that's the case. Maybe you could have slipped your part outs in the for sale section if you sounded like an average joe, but that 640 sounds rediculous for used stuff. Not bashing ya, just letting you know what it takes to be a reputable salesman on BHQ.