trickedcarbine

There has been some really fast 535's out of White Knuckle! Really, try to run the smallest base gasket you can in my opinion to keep things as low as possible for torque's sake. Then port and set up the domes around it. When you call white knuckle you need to have all these questions answered about the problems with the cheetahs. If they give you even the slightest hint of BS move on before it is to late. But to be honest I think they will be able to address any issues common with the cheetahs as they have done it before. The assembly is not hard it is all the blue printing and set up that takes the good builders. So if you have been comfortable in the past with rebuilding a banshee and had success to ahead and do it. If not and you are a little daunted, pay whoever ports it to assemble it.

Pix of the banshee. Just wondering if it was worth it, haha. That sucks man. Glad it worked out

And I thought you were all about doing shit right. Definitely not putting some ghetto ass shit like that in my bike

http://m.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Valve-Spring-Testers/ How about the mini Proform they have listed? I even like their mini digital. And they have an actual bench top from moroso for a decent price. Also when you are testing pressures, do you guys ever test the springs with some sort of stop or guide that lets you measure them at installed height? Now my contribution, here is a photo for you slingshot fellas. The driveline unit comes reccomended to have 2 balls in each of the short grooves. However I got to thinking about ways to make this thing more progressive because even with the softer springs it can be pretty violent. So I pulled one ball out of the center of all the short groove sections and places them in each of the longer ones. Feels a lot more smooth and less violent.

I'm already 3 seasons on my driveline, it is violent with all hd springs, and running springs that heavy is just un nesaccary. That is part of the glory of a lock up. Not only does it make sure that bigger motors do not slip the clutch, but it allows you to run much lighter springs as well. Keeps the ol' forearm from getting worked. All the drag guys will tell you that you dont NEED the lock up. But if you can foot one do it. This is the pattern I use for my 4 mil 12 port. Just a touch more progressive on the lock up and allows it to work smoother. My spring set is the Barnett 3 soft and 3 medium set. Feels incredible with my ASV lever.

Ok, I have a WCR pro mod tranny set up in my bike and After this weekend I have decided to swap to a N down set up. Can I just get the current drum modded or do I need to switch the gear cluster around as well?

Hey thanks fellas, I'm Not exactly sure which model it is. There is 3 windows, 2 egt, water, and RPM. It is only $200 bucks from a local dude. I see cam has a few for sale to. Any one have any specifics on probe location, depth, angle? Maybe a a few photos?

There, finally a sheet for the lazy folks out there

Yeah it is a 12 port. It runs way harder then other motors I've ran with similar durations. It comes right back on the power when you let it fall out of the revs and can just lift the front end pretty much whenever. If you are serious about having a motor done by anyone, you need to do it now. About 3 months till ice and that's not to much time.

I am wanting to try a little tuning with a digitron that I can get a killer deal on. I am running VP C12 race fuel and I am just wondering what temperature range I should be in to know I'm headed the right direction. Obviously there will be some variance but I'm just looking for a baseline target area.

This thread can get really good. I hope people with higher knowledge of this subject can do a little more sharing here. These motors still have more room to grow and it is exciting to see what people are uncovering with experience and R&D. I wonder if we will touch on squish band width and clearance in relation to performance.

I have a passion 4 mil. Holy fuck! It runs! If you want a set of stock cyls done, Jim is your guy. His turn around times are getting back to normal and he definitely stands behind his work. My bike is pretty much built for mid top, but yet it pulls way hard from the bottom with minimal effort due to the way the compression and timing work. His work just looks like a CNC machine did it.

Brian, thanks for the gear! You made cash on scrap and I got to fucking race my not so drag bike! It worked out both ways..... Thank you man.

Pretty stellar performance out of that raptor! I couldn't keep my front end down for the life of me and and kept fucking up 3rd gear and you would just be gone! Then by the time I hade it dialed we got a weird tree..... WTF? It was a blast. And now I need a real drag bike. Just goes to show that no matter how bad the motor is the chassis set upneeds to be right for the enviroment. The TT bike ain't gonna cut it next time........

I might be there with out a bike.......... Fucking gay! I have rebuilt this clutch over and over since 10 am and no difference. So any one with primary gears( preferably straight cuts) I will bring cash! Also CFH, after today's catastrophe I only have 15 pounds of potatoe salad! Do you have plates and forks?

I am not a true drag racer, but I do ice race and I have noticed huge improvements in my holeshots and out of corner speed with just minimal simple lock up and spring pressure adjustments. My bike is on a -2 and traction is never an issue which means I tend to flirt with a major bog. My remedy was to use a different spring combo from Barnett with 3 stiff & 3 light springs. This lets it slip out of the hole much easier and tends to be a little more forgiving if I'm a pussy on the throttle. Few questions. Have you tried an MSD launch limiter or only the Dyna? I have heard they can work with the oem cdi. I would love to eliminate the human variable on launch and gain a little more consistency. Being that I run the staggered spring pressures, is warpage on the plates something I should be worried about? I normally used to run all 6 springs the same but this 3 & 3 seems to feel really good. You mention Cryo treatment, I have tried it on every aspect of the banshee motor and find it to be pretty effective on everything but fasteners or certain bits of hardware. It is definitely a good clutch life improver! But people tell me I'm nuts, maybe you can verify. Have you noticed an improved resistance to plate warpage and do you have enough passes to notice the springs feeling more consistsant? Maybe as an oval racer I would notice the springs more so then the drag fellas....... Lastly, you guys are resurfacing the plates.... Is that just with some steel wool, or a scotch pad on a wheel? Seems to me anything more coarse would be a little excessive and cause premature wear? Chris, hope to pick your brain a touch out at Phil's, just be nice to my little TT bike haha

Man, I was just talking about a 10 mil super serval the other day! I will be doom one of these or a 535 cheetah. But I get he feeling this super serval will be just fine! I will definitely be tuning in to this build. It is the first 10 mil SUPER serval I have heard of.

I have a Tyson stock style cut on my bench. There is more done to it hen just whacking every other dog. Also have one of his overrides on my bench, let's just say he brought a few of those tricks over to the stock style cut. Do you have a stocker next to it that you can compare every little detail. The faces or tips of the gears, the little locking nubs on the sides of the gears profiled, the shaft polished, the remaining dogs and cogs profiled? Just curious..... Tyson usually does more to them then just the dogs. That just seems to be the only part of the process people remember. You might have something way better then you think. RUN IT!

Pow! No really it depends who cuts it! It really isnt rocket science, but there is a science to it. A good tranny will have more then just every other dog removed. You could lay my tranny next to a stocker and see that there are several things done to it if you know what you are looking at.

Ok, my opinion....There really isn't a set level but if you have a dune bike making 80 plus or any dragger it would be wise. However. How stiff do you need your springs to be to hook your motor to the tires? Is it enough to make you wish that they were lighter? If so, Put in some light springs and a lock up.

Cryo...... Good ol' Cryo. No Cryo on fasteners though

Better bring 16! Won't only be racers there. Better to be over prepared then under prepared.

Like I said, depends who cut it..... I have really been hammering mine and just about got it down to shift mine like an over ride.

Just remember that if the idler clip is popping off it means that the bushing is mushrooming out and it needs replacing. Jeff has a steel replacement for a good price

Agreed with RRL on the R1/R6 shocks being to stiff for weight transfer. They tend to blow the tires off a lot and make hook up out of the corners a lot of work with the clutch and throttle. If you have a good stock rear shock or even aftermarket shock just get a real nice lowering link. If you can get a sway bar definitely do so...... As far as setting up the bar, it just depends what you like. I prefer the shocks nice and plush and use the bar to stiffen it up for turns. Some guys like the shocks ultra stiff, but in my 6 years of quads on ice, that becomes a compromise and makes the bike a little twitchy and less prone to transfer weight. Those elkas you have, what type of adjustment do they have?