trickedcarbine

Definitely run at least 1 inch on the rear tires and you should. Be happy. They tend to go airborne if they are any smaller. As for the shocks, the R6 will get you low enough and with the Elka's it depends how Long they are. They don't need to be slammed way down and I would tell ya that keeping the front higher then the rear will help you in hook up. Especially on that stiff ass R6 shock. And if you can find a sway bar, run it. It just makes the bike Handle like a slot car.

Smooch, that was a Fuggin right buttock kiss! It is nice though. Haha

No, hers smells like a dead fish on the beach on a 100 degree day!

Snif snif.... Is that pussy we can smell?

Anybody? Really, no one has a quick change cover on a slingshot? Gave Lane a call and he said that Brad Tyson has a few custom built ones built, but I get the feeling they will be for the rich blooded.....

Man I really wanted to take the whole motor before, but just couldn't get a few things sold. Now of course you have the cyls listed and I just sent a $1,200 check to the IRS for a 1099 that I would have gladly paid a late fee on to own that top end. I just know that by the time I have another extra 1,100 that top end will be gone! Damnit! Kudos to who beats me to it!

Cam and sleeper, you guys must be idiots of you think you can port! You're not site sponsors! Hahaha

I am just looking to see if there are any options for covers out there that give enough clearance to pull the big ol' plate out of my sling shot lock up. Seems like there are a ton that have large open faces, however it looks like the bosses for the bolts that hold the outer cover on would be in the way. Any body know for sure what works with these things?

Update, took the nut to a metalurgist at a place in Farmington michigan called RTI laboratories and have found out that the cryotreatment of that nut might have been part of the issue. I brought him another nut as well that was un treated and he stated that after a couple quick tests the stock un treated nut seemed to show better tensile properties where the Cryo treated nut that failed though seemed to be a bit harder in the Rockwell scale, yet it was seemingly brittle. They do a lot of testing and much of it for Roush and the big 3 and I believe I saw a few Detroit diesel parts in there. I dunno if that is the total cause, but in his 20+ years of experience opinion.... He says many parts can benefit the Cryo, but it is not something he would ever do for high rpm fasteners that see sudden bursts of stress. I also think that the bearing being locked in with 2 clips also takes some of the torsional flex out of the equation meaning that gear was thrusting a touch more on the nut then normal. Note to self...... No more cryotreatment of fasteners!

Tim bond @ Titan Racing Kim @ K&T How did I forget them! Although a lot of these folks are sending their designs through NOSS. Makes me wonder if that has anything to do with the development of David's dome design? I know much of his stock cylinder stuff was actually Jim @ passion racing's design and specs believe it or not. And domes can be every thing. Although if say you run a fast motor with Jeff's domes, you won't get some major jump in power going to say a HJR dome. Some times you have to have the guy who ported it do the dome because tweaking the transfers and that rear upper intake port can really need a good properly designed dome to pick up on those points.

Wait, Jeff's post is 2 days old and the band wagon isn't on the hitch yet? Every one has been bashing them but I imagine the tide will change now that a site sponsor has stepped up.

David noss @ noss machine Brandon @ Wildcard Jeff @ Fast Kevin @ HJR Andy @ No Limit Powersports (mm Atv) Cam @ Redline They all do solid domes! Find who you click with and give it a go.

From the pictures of those plugs the it appears to be very rich! What size is that PWK? As for the internals, you can get a decent indication by pulling the pipes and looking up inside at the very inner shape and height of the exhaust port. Might not be much to go off but a goofy shape or oblong oval might mean its got a little work, but having a 2/1 and PC pipes is usually the trend for fellas not to familiar with banshees yet so it might not be ported. You could rip the intake and reeds off and look in that way, but ultimately you would know everything about it by simply popping that head off.

Joe add domestic beotch. CFH is apparently serious about the ribs. I said I'd help with sides. Any body cool with pasta salad and cheesy potatoes?

You forgot to ask if he checked his jetting......

Bulge in the convex washer was out ward and I took it to 47 or 48 ft lbs whatever the manual says on that chart. Either way it's going back together with straight cut gears. I even went so far as to permatex the key way so I know I was detailed. Guess shit happens, but I am glad if it was torsional force from repeated launching that it blew the nut off and didn't eat a bearing.

Pro mod, ez shift, ez cut..... Whatever we choose to call it will always be better then a stocker! However who cut it will make all the difference. Mine is the true Pro Mod from WCR and it is kick ass, but done by a douche! None the less I can ride it very aggressively and am able to ride it two different ways. Either blip the throttle and shift, or pin the throttle and just ever so slightly tap the clutch. I do either depending on what the bike is doing. I'm starting to get enough practice on it to shift it like an override on open straight situations to. But I can back load it all day engine braking after a down shift for big flat track turns, or long down hill sections. If a bike ever sees tight riding this is the way to go! Just make sure to accompany it with every shift mod you can minus the easy spring and get a good pancake bearing.

Hence the nut Stripping and the snout being fine Dave I didn't quite mean there is a sequence for the nut it self, but that it is more precise to use proper spec on every nut and bolt on these things. So for cases, cyls and the head he reccomended to use step torquing in sequence. For the clutch components he reccomended using the desired values from the clymer manual.

I used to do it that way but Jim stressed the importance of step torqueing in sequence and not getting carried away with the air tools Altough the sprocket always gets a good impact

I wasn't trying to say my motor is a mammoth beast that just Eats parts, just trying to show that it is not some weak spawn, and that it is at the level where all the weak links are being exposed..... All weak links haha

The sprocket is really only that bad because I kept beating it till I felt the chain totally slip, the bike has a round house swinger so it is nice and straight. I put a sunstar on it and beat it all day yesterday and it is fine. So I don't think I'll ever be using moose sprockets again. It appears that it was over hardened and made way to brittleittle when you look at up close where the teeth were. As for the nut and convex washer I had it the same way as the manual shows and I torqued it per clymer's spec with a Matco torque wrench. I just don't wanna put another nut on and have the same thing happen. It wasn't just some trail riding. It was repeated launching so it was certainly hard on it. The motor is definitely as bad ass as the motor in my sig so I worry that I may do some damage by choosing to run the helical gears again

The bike definitely has decent power........ This is a case hardened chromoly steel sprocket from moose with about 15 hole shots.

Ok, so I was doing a little lock up tuning on my new passion 4mm set up and I noticed a MAJOR situation when I had the cover off. I swapped some springs and hit the whole thing wih some brake clean and went to blast it with the air hose. As soon as I blew off the primary gears on the crank shaft, the nut and thrust washer just fell right off. I looked closer and realized that this thing didn't just come loose and unthread, but the primary gear had pulled it self outward about 3/16 of an inch which just shoved right through the threads on the nut! The threads on the end of the crank snout out are great, but the nut needs to be replaced! I pulled the plugs and turned the motor by hand to verify that the crank still felt kosher and it was nice and smooth. No crunchy feeling from the bearings. I also tried to see if I could get the shaft to wobble and it stays nice and true. I feel that I got lucky that the nut let go and that it allowed the bearings to survive. There was no damage from the nut, it just sat on the shaft till I pulled the cover. Is it time for some straight cuts and what are the differences in the sets offered from Fast, No Limit, White Knuckle, etc.? I know there are ratio differences, but what are the quality differences and why are 2 gears so damn much!

Get the new pedals for your delta 2's! Those are hands down the best performing reed for our bikes especially once you get into the porting. The only thing I can say is LOCTITE! Make sure the retainer screws get some or they will get ate by your bike. I am dumping my 3's for the new 4's after testing on a KTM 300. Same setup and carachteristics of the delta 2's but the simple modular no shrapnel screw design of the 3's. I'll get bashed for saying that, but on the KTM I worked on it was a noticeable gain on the buttometer and it did need a bigger pilot to keep it from doing the lean crackle.

They fit pretty sweet! I have seen two. Well actually 3 but the third was one of TZ racin's customers chromoly TT chassis with 250r body. The one I saw in a stock Honda frame was a pretty tame build and the one in a laegers 250R frame(not a banshee hybrid)was just friggin sweet!